E-Type - brake/accelerator “feel” & driving impressions.
Discussion
I recently got my S1 4.2 E-Type back on the road. I can’t be bothered messing about with it mechanically any more (I’m done repeating checks and adjustments for no gain), so took it to a respected specialist with a list of things to sort out.
Firstly, the feel of the brakes is poor. There’s some kind of effect like the hydraulic and pneumatic parts of the system aren’t synchronised. This is particularly apparent when coming off the brakes; it’s like there’s a slight delay (or two-stage release) before the brakes are fully off. It’s been a constant issue since completing the rebuild, and over the years, a complete brake system replacement. All the usual things have been looked at and eliminated (sticking pistons, wrong return springs, rough bores etc etc.). Interestingly I have a 1965 Motor Sport magazine long term test of this car, and they noted exactly the same thing. I’m told that not all 4.2 E-Types have this issue, so…there we go.
Second is that the accelerator feel is terrible. There’s little modulation, and the travel is very short between zero and full throttle. I’m assured the linkage set-up is spot-on. I know there’s a cable conversion, but it’s £800+ There’s also a slight stutter when blipping the throttle from idle when hot, for example at traffic lights when I set off, it sometimes fells like it’ll stall (but doesn’t). The carbs were professionally rebuilt in 2015, as was the distributor. This month was the first time they’d been used after fitting and setting up. Again, both were professionally set up last week. The accelerator/brake issues make smooth launches difficult.
The seat backs are also far too upright, making a comfortable driving position impossible.
I’m assured by another E-type owner, and the aforementioned specialist (both of whom have driven many different E-Types including mine) that my car is an excellent example, and certainly not in the apparently commonplace category of cosmetically restored dogs. It apparently drives exactly as it should.
After putting years into rebuilding it, driving it a couple of thousand miles from 2001 to about 2010, and now having put it on the road again after a 13 year lay-up I’m beyond making allowances for it. I am beginning to think that the people who say E-Types are brilliant cars are actually not being entirely objective about them. I absolutely don’t expect modern car performance and comfort, but as things are, frankly I’d rather walk than drive it. Surely this can’t be right? The above appear to be fairly minor fixable issues, which would make the car immeasurably better to drive, yet I’m told it’s fine as it is. I’m stumped.
Firstly, the feel of the brakes is poor. There’s some kind of effect like the hydraulic and pneumatic parts of the system aren’t synchronised. This is particularly apparent when coming off the brakes; it’s like there’s a slight delay (or two-stage release) before the brakes are fully off. It’s been a constant issue since completing the rebuild, and over the years, a complete brake system replacement. All the usual things have been looked at and eliminated (sticking pistons, wrong return springs, rough bores etc etc.). Interestingly I have a 1965 Motor Sport magazine long term test of this car, and they noted exactly the same thing. I’m told that not all 4.2 E-Types have this issue, so…there we go.
Second is that the accelerator feel is terrible. There’s little modulation, and the travel is very short between zero and full throttle. I’m assured the linkage set-up is spot-on. I know there’s a cable conversion, but it’s £800+ There’s also a slight stutter when blipping the throttle from idle when hot, for example at traffic lights when I set off, it sometimes fells like it’ll stall (but doesn’t). The carbs were professionally rebuilt in 2015, as was the distributor. This month was the first time they’d been used after fitting and setting up. Again, both were professionally set up last week. The accelerator/brake issues make smooth launches difficult.
The seat backs are also far too upright, making a comfortable driving position impossible.
I’m assured by another E-type owner, and the aforementioned specialist (both of whom have driven many different E-Types including mine) that my car is an excellent example, and certainly not in the apparently commonplace category of cosmetically restored dogs. It apparently drives exactly as it should.
After putting years into rebuilding it, driving it a couple of thousand miles from 2001 to about 2010, and now having put it on the road again after a 13 year lay-up I’m beyond making allowances for it. I am beginning to think that the people who say E-Types are brilliant cars are actually not being entirely objective about them. I absolutely don’t expect modern car performance and comfort, but as things are, frankly I’d rather walk than drive it. Surely this can’t be right? The above appear to be fairly minor fixable issues, which would make the car immeasurably better to drive, yet I’m told it’s fine as it is. I’m stumped.
dr_gn said:
I am beginning to think that the people who say E-Types are brilliant cars are actually not being entirely objective about them.
Do people say "E-Types are brilliant cars" or "E-Types are brilliant cars, for something design in the 1950's/built in the 1960's"...?Most of my driving is done in classics so their foibles and flaws are what I'm used to so for me jumping into a modern car is always a bit of a shock to the system - usually involving trying to launch everyone through the windscreen the first time I go anywhere near the brake pedal. Are you just having the reverse experience, being used to driving moderns and discovering what was deemed 'good' back in the day (but really isn't by modern standards)?
Firstly, I don't know much about E-types apart from 'they look nice and cost a lot'.
The brake problem sounds like 'servo' to me.
Years ago I had a mate who worked at Lucas-Girling in Cwmbran.
He did some computer modelling of servos, they are complicated things with some subtleties not obvious to the casual observer.
I recall him saying things about the matching of servos to vehicles and markets being something of a 'dark art', particularly the dynamic response.
Specifically, I recall different markets want different responses.
Unfortunately he's not around any more.
Likewise the throttle problem. SU carbs? Personally I've never understood these beyond a pretty superficial level. I suspect the number of people who could spec one from scratch and tune it to a performance production vehicle is quite small now. But the mechanical ratio of pedal movement to butterfly movement is not a hugely difficult concept? Except there is perhaps some subtlety of rising rate linkages, initially a certain movement of the foot should probably only move the butterfly a little, then it all happens in the second half of pedal travel? Again there are dynamics involved with the damper and all that, so the scope for getting the subtleties wrong is vast.
With the brake system, possibly upgrades or modern friction materials have moved the goal posts?
Not sure what might have done the same on the carb side?
Petrol? Ignition timing?
Being an old git, I think people today don't understand the subtleties of old fashioned mechanisms, just because it's a couple of springs and a lever made of bent metal doesn't mean there's nothing to it. 80 years of development went into all that stuff!
It's much easier just to let a microprocessor crunch the numbers.
These old cars should be perfectly drivable, people drove them every day, in traffic, in the rain on bad roads and cross-ply tyres.
Usually in the wrong gear.
Often after a few G&T's....
There have been lots of experts trying to make them go faster, rather than 'better'.
The brake problem sounds like 'servo' to me.
Years ago I had a mate who worked at Lucas-Girling in Cwmbran.
He did some computer modelling of servos, they are complicated things with some subtleties not obvious to the casual observer.
I recall him saying things about the matching of servos to vehicles and markets being something of a 'dark art', particularly the dynamic response.
Specifically, I recall different markets want different responses.
Unfortunately he's not around any more.
Likewise the throttle problem. SU carbs? Personally I've never understood these beyond a pretty superficial level. I suspect the number of people who could spec one from scratch and tune it to a performance production vehicle is quite small now. But the mechanical ratio of pedal movement to butterfly movement is not a hugely difficult concept? Except there is perhaps some subtlety of rising rate linkages, initially a certain movement of the foot should probably only move the butterfly a little, then it all happens in the second half of pedal travel? Again there are dynamics involved with the damper and all that, so the scope for getting the subtleties wrong is vast.
With the brake system, possibly upgrades or modern friction materials have moved the goal posts?
Not sure what might have done the same on the carb side?
Petrol? Ignition timing?
Being an old git, I think people today don't understand the subtleties of old fashioned mechanisms, just because it's a couple of springs and a lever made of bent metal doesn't mean there's nothing to it. 80 years of development went into all that stuff!
It's much easier just to let a microprocessor crunch the numbers.
These old cars should be perfectly drivable, people drove them every day, in traffic, in the rain on bad roads and cross-ply tyres.
Usually in the wrong gear.
Often after a few G&T's....
There have been lots of experts trying to make them go faster, rather than 'better'.
I've owned several E Types - the most recent being an S2 4.2. A well sorted E Type is still a joy to drive
The brakes as standard were never that exciting, which is why so many upgrade them. It appears that yours has a separate problem though.
Can't say I've ever noticed anything unusual about the throttle travel, again you seem to have a specific problem. There's not much simpler than S.U carbs anyone familiar with them should have no issues in setting them up.
Any genuine specialist should be able to sort out the problems you've got. Can we know who it is you've been recommended to use ? Some on here may be able to help with alternatives if necessary.
The brakes as standard were never that exciting, which is why so many upgrade them. It appears that yours has a separate problem though.
Can't say I've ever noticed anything unusual about the throttle travel, again you seem to have a specific problem. There's not much simpler than S.U carbs anyone familiar with them should have no issues in setting them up.
Any genuine specialist should be able to sort out the problems you've got. Can we know who it is you've been recommended to use ? Some on here may be able to help with alternatives if necessary.
I have a 4.2 Series 2. It is a well sorted car and a pleasure to drive. The allowances I have to make are slightly different to yours. The narrow footwear is a pain for my size 10 feet and I a struggle to get comfy on long runs, but it is what it is. My seats are really bad and it is on the list to attend to. They are immaculate to look at but very baggy and loose to sit in. I need to talk to a trimmer about rebuilding them.
But mechanically it's great. No issue with throttle pedal linkage to the SU carbs at all, travel and modulation is spot on. I have to heel and toe mine all the time when the box is cold so any issues there would really spoil the driving experience. I would persevere with the set up here. Brakes on mine are great but it does have all the AP upgrades so not a fair comparison.
For a 50 odd year old car I have no issues in the cut and thrust of modern traffic and its still quite a quick car. Bloody great in fact when you run third out from almost idle to the red line.
But mechanically it's great. No issue with throttle pedal linkage to the SU carbs at all, travel and modulation is spot on. I have to heel and toe mine all the time when the box is cold so any issues there would really spoil the driving experience. I would persevere with the set up here. Brakes on mine are great but it does have all the AP upgrades so not a fair comparison.
For a 50 odd year old car I have no issues in the cut and thrust of modern traffic and its still quite a quick car. Bloody great in fact when you run third out from almost idle to the red line.
Mine is a 3.8 RHD FHC so I have a different brake assistance setup. You have a problem with your servo in my opinion.
I'm assuming that you have a 4.2 series 1, RHD as parts vary between models and driving side.
The throttle pedal should be progressive. As you've been working on the car, I'd assume you have the spare parts catalogue (and the official Jaguar manual, as without these, you are in the dark). The backlash and poor pedal progression may be that you're missing the fulcrum eccentric (C.18275 as shown in the 3.8 catalogue on plate 9 as item 10). It's fitted with a bolt and is rotated to take out backlash, then clamped down. It might be different depending on which model you have.
As noted above, who said your car was okay as is? If you need someone to look over the car in Somerset, I could have a look and I know a good company in Hampshire. They should all drive well but there can be some work to get there - following the Jaguar manual is the best bet.
Cheers, Chris
I'm assuming that you have a 4.2 series 1, RHD as parts vary between models and driving side.
The throttle pedal should be progressive. As you've been working on the car, I'd assume you have the spare parts catalogue (and the official Jaguar manual, as without these, you are in the dark). The backlash and poor pedal progression may be that you're missing the fulcrum eccentric (C.18275 as shown in the 3.8 catalogue on plate 9 as item 10). It's fitted with a bolt and is rotated to take out backlash, then clamped down. It might be different depending on which model you have.
As noted above, who said your car was okay as is? If you need someone to look over the car in Somerset, I could have a look and I know a good company in Hampshire. They should all drive well but there can be some work to get there - following the Jaguar manual is the best bet.
Cheers, Chris
Thanks all.
I'd rather not name names here.
I went to a friends place yesterday - who also specialises in E-Type restoration. I tried sitting in another car (an S2) and to be fair the accelerator was the same as mine, actually it had more free play in it (at least after I machined a new stop eccentric for the linkage. The clutch pedal felt much better than mine (I was advised to fit an AP Racing 9 1/2" diaphragm clutch at the time I rebuilt it). However, I'm not convinced the clutch system is set up properly (again done by the aforementioned).
I couldn't evaluate the brake feel becasue the car was static, but I was told it was good, with no "dual action" release.
The S2 seat backs seem to recline more, not sure if they are different mounts or even different seats (these had headrests). Anyway, the driving position was far better than mine.
The hesitation from idle may be mixture - again I paid for this to be checked and adjusted.
To answer other questions: Yes I have a parts list and manual, and yes, the throttle linkage is complete and set up properly. This seems to be confirmed by the S2 experience above.
So after discussing with my friend last night, I conclude that my car does need more work, but isn't fundamentally wrong. Also that the driving experience should be "a pleasure" (as noted by people on here as well). It appears that at least some (if not most) of the money I spent with the specialist to get the car right was pretty much wasted. I can't justify spending even more at the moment, but when I can I will probably take it somewhere else to try again. I'm sure folks are thinking "just take it back and get it sorted out". that's fine, but I have now lost confidence in the people who did the work. In addition, anyone whose rebuilt a car and has tried to get it "right" might know that sometimes things get too much and you just want the car home and to forget about it. That's where I am now.
Thanks all.
I'd rather not name names here.
I went to a friends place yesterday - who also specialises in E-Type restoration. I tried sitting in another car (an S2) and to be fair the accelerator was the same as mine, actually it had more free play in it (at least after I machined a new stop eccentric for the linkage. The clutch pedal felt much better than mine (I was advised to fit an AP Racing 9 1/2" diaphragm clutch at the time I rebuilt it). However, I'm not convinced the clutch system is set up properly (again done by the aforementioned).
I couldn't evaluate the brake feel becasue the car was static, but I was told it was good, with no "dual action" release.
The S2 seat backs seem to recline more, not sure if they are different mounts or even different seats (these had headrests). Anyway, the driving position was far better than mine.
The hesitation from idle may be mixture - again I paid for this to be checked and adjusted.
To answer other questions: Yes I have a parts list and manual, and yes, the throttle linkage is complete and set up properly. This seems to be confirmed by the S2 experience above.
So after discussing with my friend last night, I conclude that my car does need more work, but isn't fundamentally wrong. Also that the driving experience should be "a pleasure" (as noted by people on here as well). It appears that at least some (if not most) of the money I spent with the specialist to get the car right was pretty much wasted. I can't justify spending even more at the moment, but when I can I will probably take it somewhere else to try again. I'm sure folks are thinking "just take it back and get it sorted out". that's fine, but I have now lost confidence in the people who did the work. In addition, anyone whose rebuilt a car and has tried to get it "right" might know that sometimes things get too much and you just want the car home and to forget about it. That's where I am now.
Thanks all.
dr_gn said:
I tried sitting in another car (an S2)...The clutch pedal felt much better than mine (I was advised to fit an AP Racing 9 1/2" diaphragm clutch at the time I rebuilt it). However, I'm not convinced the clutch system is set up properly (again done by the aforementioned).
I know "AP Racing" is just a company name but in general 'upgraded' clutches will generally handle more power but be less pleasent to use day-to-day, with stronger springs needing more leg work and beeing more 'grabbie' then they engage. Now that specific clutch might just be AP Racing's 'standard road' clutch and recommended as better quality than some no-name brand made for 20p 'somewhere' in the world but [u]could[/u] be an upgraded one impacting on the please of unnecessary for 'Sunday driver' car that's never going to see many clutch-dumping gear changes.dr_gn said:
In addition, anyone whose rebuilt a car and has tried to get it "right" might know that sometimes things get too much and you just want the car home and to forget about it. That's where I am now.
Some times just closing the garage door and walking away for a bit is the right thing to do. Classic cars should be a pleasure, not a chore and if you just keep punching yourself in the face at some point you stop enjoying it. Leave it a week or two and then go back to it.The other thing you can do is are you a member of any Jaguar car clubs? If you are go along to an event or meet, chat to some long term owners of cars the same as yours and see how your experiences match theirs and, insurance/if you trust the look of them permitting, get them to take you for a drive in your car so they can give you direct feedback of "Oh, your's does that, I thought it was just mine!" or "Humm, that's very odd, mine doesn't do that!". You might then get offered the reverse of driving their car so you have a feel of what X [u]should[/u] feel like in your exact make/model/year of car.
I have driven etypes for many years and now tend to do the work myself. Are you able to consider working on these issues your self?
I would take one issue at a time and think it through, the throttle for example is all rods and levers by interupting the rod linkages you will be able to feel if the throttle body itself is smooth in its operation. Once you have satisfied yourself on a point or two your confidence will grow.
Have you got the official Etype 4.2 workshop manual? usually a reasonable cost 2nd hand on ebay, these are priceless in providing step by step procedures along with diagrams...
There is also the very useful 'Etype Forum' which has a wealth of experience and helpful owners who together work through these type of issues.
I would take one issue at a time and think it through, the throttle for example is all rods and levers by interupting the rod linkages you will be able to feel if the throttle body itself is smooth in its operation. Once you have satisfied yourself on a point or two your confidence will grow.
Have you got the official Etype 4.2 workshop manual? usually a reasonable cost 2nd hand on ebay, these are priceless in providing step by step procedures along with diagrams...
There is also the very useful 'Etype Forum' which has a wealth of experience and helpful owners who together work through these type of issues.
//j17 said:
The other thing you can do is are you a member of any Jaguar car clubs? If you are go along to an event or meet, chat to some long term owners of cars the same as yours and see how your experiences match theirs and, insurance/if you trust the look of them permitting, get them to take you for a drive in your car so they can give you direct feedback of "Oh, your's does that, I thought it was just mine!" or "Humm, that's very odd, mine doesn't do that!". You might then get offered the reverse of driving their car so you have a feel of what X [u]should[/u] feel like in your exact make/model/year of car.
This every time – these guys have a different motivation to specialists. Richard-onrou said:
I have driven etypes for many years and now tend to do the work myself. Are you able to consider working on these issues your self?
I would take one issue at a time and think it through, the throttle for example is all rods and levers by interupting the rod linkages you will be able to feel if the throttle body itself is smooth in its operation. Once you have satisfied yourself on a point or two your confidence will grow.
Have you got the official Etype 4.2 workshop manual? usually a reasonable cost 2nd hand on ebay, these are priceless in providing step by step procedures along with diagrams...
There is also the very useful 'Etype Forum' which has a wealth of experience and helpful owners who together work through these type of issues.
Thanks. I built every nut and bolt of the car from a bare shell and boxs of bits, from '94 to '02, so I literally know it inside-out. Even though the car has only done a few thousand miles since, these issues have been a constant source of irritation, and obviously I was reminded of them last month when I drove the car again after a 13 year lay-up. I would take one issue at a time and think it through, the throttle for example is all rods and levers by interupting the rod linkages you will be able to feel if the throttle body itself is smooth in its operation. Once you have satisfied yourself on a point or two your confidence will grow.
Have you got the official Etype 4.2 workshop manual? usually a reasonable cost 2nd hand on ebay, these are priceless in providing step by step procedures along with diagrams...
There is also the very useful 'Etype Forum' which has a wealth of experience and helpful owners who together work through these type of issues.
The throttles were prefessionally rebuilt in 2015 (along with the distributor), including being bushed and reamed, so they are smooth and the butterflies close effectively enough for the idle screws to be effective. The linkage is fine, I now think it's working as it should, but just doesn't suit my driving style (or the clutch itself is too "on/off" to synchronise the throttle with smoothly from a standing start).
The reason I went to a specialist was that I appeared to have a choice between trying again (and based on previous attempts probably failing) to sort the issues myself, or taking it to a specialist and paying for them to sort everything out and be done with it.
What I've ended up with is pretty much the same issues (or even new, different ones), a not insignificant bill, and a car I still hate to drive. The frustrating thing is that these things are obviously fixable, but not guaranteed to be fixable by anyone I'm aware of!
The forums are all well and good, but people tend to repeat the same information and advice. I get the impression that the extent of knowledge of some contributors is limited to what they're read on the very same forum. Either way, when you've acted on that same advice and the issues still remain, then what?
These cars are not hard to drive so it would be unusual that it doesn't suit your driving style but, I suppose that might be the case. The most likely problem is just that there are issues in one or two places.
You haven't said where you are but you could go to a JDC or JEC meeting as has been mentioned. Depending on where you are, there may be someone who is very knowledgeable. I'm in the JDC and meetings are usually once per month. If you're not willing to share your rough location, I think it will be hard for anyone to recommend a local knowledgeable person.
I can't see why you won't say who looked at the car as they have stated it is fine and charged you for it. Let's say that was CMC (as an example) then I believe everyone would agree with whatever they said and this is how the car should be. If it's "Dishonest John Jag specialist" then it would be worth getting another opinion.
Anyway, good luck.
Cheers, Chris
You haven't said where you are but you could go to a JDC or JEC meeting as has been mentioned. Depending on where you are, there may be someone who is very knowledgeable. I'm in the JDC and meetings are usually once per month. If you're not willing to share your rough location, I think it will be hard for anyone to recommend a local knowledgeable person.
I can't see why you won't say who looked at the car as they have stated it is fine and charged you for it. Let's say that was CMC (as an example) then I believe everyone would agree with whatever they said and this is how the car should be. If it's "Dishonest John Jag specialist" then it would be worth getting another opinion.
Anyway, good luck.
Cheers, Chris
dr_gn said:
Thanks. I built every nut and bolt of the car from a bare shell and boxs of bits, from '94 to '02, so I literally know it inside-out. Even though the car has only done a few thousand miles since, these issues have been a constant source of irritation, and obviously I was reminded of them last month when I drove the car again after a 13 year lay-up.
The throttles were prefessionally rebuilt in 2015 (along with the distributor), including being bushed and reamed, so they are smooth and the butterflies close effectively enough for the idle screws to be effective. The linkage is fine, I now think it's working as it should, but just doesn't suit my driving style (or the clutch itself is too "on/off" to synchronise the throttle with smoothly from a standing start).
The reason I went to a specialist was that I appeared to have a choice between trying again (and based on previous attempts probably failing) to sort the issues myself, or taking it to a specialist and paying for them to sort everything out and be done with it.
What I've ended up with is pretty much the same issues (or even new, different ones), a not insignificant bill, and a car I still hate to drive. The frustrating thing is that these things are obviously fixable, but not guaranteed to be fixable by anyone I'm aware of!
The forums are all well and good, but people tend to repeat the same information and advice. I get the impression that the extent of knowledge of some contributors is limited to what they're read on the very same forum. Either way, when you've acted on that same advice and the issues still remain, then what?
A few different thoughts here; it wouldn't appear you have driven it much after completing the rebuild? As a general rule of thumb one is advised to put 500 miles on after such work to iron out all the issues that are discovered. Also in this respect it can be useful to find a local 'buddy' who has the same car so comparisons can be made? The throttles were prefessionally rebuilt in 2015 (along with the distributor), including being bushed and reamed, so they are smooth and the butterflies close effectively enough for the idle screws to be effective. The linkage is fine, I now think it's working as it should, but just doesn't suit my driving style (or the clutch itself is too "on/off" to synchronise the throttle with smoothly from a standing start).
The reason I went to a specialist was that I appeared to have a choice between trying again (and based on previous attempts probably failing) to sort the issues myself, or taking it to a specialist and paying for them to sort everything out and be done with it.
What I've ended up with is pretty much the same issues (or even new, different ones), a not insignificant bill, and a car I still hate to drive. The frustrating thing is that these things are obviously fixable, but not guaranteed to be fixable by anyone I'm aware of!
The forums are all well and good, but people tend to repeat the same information and advice. I get the impression that the extent of knowledge of some contributors is limited to what they're read on the very same forum. Either way, when you've acted on that same advice and the issues still remain, then what?
You mention that you have given the car to a specialist but don't appear to be happy with them - Something odd here? poor workmanship? lack of attention to detail? can you be sure they have actually addressed the issues and/or fobbing you off? maybe not so specialised?
The brake issue - could this be the servo? non return valve? were the servo bore's in good condition? I've just had one re-sleeved by a firm in Suffolk.....
Seat comfort is a personal one for sure, the 3.8 seats are infamous for being uncomfortable, I believe the first five hundred had a 10% rake later modified to a 20% rake - a small amount but made a massive difference - could something be devised to aid the existing (though appreciate the upholstery work is probably done).
At the end of the day perhaps it cannot be the car for you - I spent 5 years nut and bolt restoring a Lotus Elan Sprint and couldn't wait to get into its charms - I just never did, although a friend of mine drives his to France each year including motorway miles! and just loves it...
It does sound like some exasperation has stepped in after such a mammoth project and it would be a miracle in my view that it would be perfect straight out of the box....
I have a Series 1 4.2 roadster and I think it’s the most usable classic I’ve ever had/have.
I always hear people say they drive terribly even if you take into account they’re 60 years old but they are so wrong. My wife drives it easily and she’s not one to drive anything other than simplicity
60 years on and it’ll still keep up with modern traffic (though my 5sp is the best thing I ever fitted)
Brakes are a bit scary. Seats are fine at 6.2” and size 11’s it all fits well. I take it you know there’s a little wedge on the hinge that changes the rake??
I do end up driving it far too fast though, ragging it around like a full loony.
But these old cars do sometimes take time and money to resolve small issues. I’d say it’s well worth persevering as they are truly awesome .
I always hear people say they drive terribly even if you take into account they’re 60 years old but they are so wrong. My wife drives it easily and she’s not one to drive anything other than simplicity
60 years on and it’ll still keep up with modern traffic (though my 5sp is the best thing I ever fitted)
Brakes are a bit scary. Seats are fine at 6.2” and size 11’s it all fits well. I take it you know there’s a little wedge on the hinge that changes the rake??
I do end up driving it far too fast though, ragging it around like a full loony.
But these old cars do sometimes take time and money to resolve small issues. I’d say it’s well worth persevering as they are truly awesome .
Thanks, but your post is a good example of what confuses me about people talking about E-Types.
You're saying it doesn't drive terribly, and is usable and simple:
You're saying it doesn't drive terribly, and is usable and simple:
vpr said:
I always hear people say they drive terribly even if you take into account they’re 60 years old but they are so wrong.
but also:vpr said:
Brakes are a bit scary.
How can it be so great to drive if the brakes are "scary"??Yertis said:
I assume VPR means they're scary when you forget that they don't perform like modern brakes.
That applies to pretty much every aspect of an old car in my experience.Obviously this is subjective, but to me if a car’s brakes are described as “scary”, it immediately negates any assertion that it’s a nice car to drive.
dr_gn said:
Yertis said:
I assume VPR means they're scary when you forget that they don't perform like modern brakes.
That applies to pretty much every aspect of an old car in my experience.Obviously this is subjective, but to me if a car’s brakes are described as “scary”, it immediately negates any assertion that it’s a nice car to drive.
Could they be scary? yes if you're expecting ABS style behaviour of hit the brakes and stop thinking about what your doing, especially when driving with cross plies. The brakes were always more capable than the tyres, this is very clear in the rain. When driving any classic there's no electronics covering your arse. For me that was the whole point of driving a classic. I had to stay much more alert.
The brakes never made me feel there simply wasn't enough braking available.
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff