Morris Minor convertible

[crankedup5]

Been looking at A7s for a while and they still seem expensive to me, as an alternative I am considering the dear old M.M. convertible. I used to own a couple saloon versions when I was a lad.
What’s not to like?

[cjb44]

crankedup5 said:

Been looking at A7s for a while and they still seem expensive to me, as an alternative I am considering the dear old M.M. convertible. I used to own a couple saloon versions when I was a lad.
What’s not to like?

Nothing really, but look out for fakes (converted saloons) and of course, it is likely to be draughty and wet. Easily maintained by a man of your ability, look out for top joints because if they fail the suspension collapses, but I guess you know this.

[crankedup5]

cjb44 said:

crankedup5 said:

Been looking at A7s for a while and they still seem expensive to me, as an alternative I am considering the dear old M.M. convertible. I used to own a couple saloon versions when I was a lad.
What’s not to like?

Nothing really, but look out for fakes (converted saloons) and of course, it is likely to be draughty and wet. Easily maintained by a man of your ability, look out for top joints because if they fail the suspension collapses, but I guess you know this.

Think I will buy from a specialist dealer with reputation. Last thing I want is somebody else’s death trap.
Thing is an A7 chummy is around 14/15k which is a bit strong for me. The MM can be had for around 10k for a decent car. Not sure about the top joints you mention.

[cjb44]

crankedup5 said:

Think I will buy from a specialist dealer with reputation. Last thing I want is somebody else’s death trap.
Thing is an A7 chummy is around 14/15k which is a bit strong for me. The MM can be had for around 10k for a decent car. Not sure about the top joints you mention.

Probably should have been more specific, the top joints are actually called Trunnions. It is really a case of good maintenance with the grease gun, they wear and you need to jack the car up but support the wheel so that you can simulate running mode, then you can check for play in the top joint.
Hope this helps.

[Skyedriver]

Trunnions, a well cause of three wheels on my wagon. Actually the stayed attached just instant camber change. See also Triumph Heralds....
With the MM, you also had to look out for the area of the "chassis" where the torsion bars were fixed IIRC.

[crankedup5]

cjb44 said:

crankedup5 said:

Think I will buy from a specialist dealer with reputation. Last thing I want is somebody else’s death trap.
Thing is an A7 chummy is around 14/15k which is a bit strong for me. The MM can be had for around 10k for a decent car. Not sure about the top joints you mention.

Probably should have been more specific, the top joints are actually called Trunnions. It is really a case of good maintenance with the grease gun, they wear and you need to jack the car up but support the wheel so that you can simulate running mode, then you can check for play in the top joint.
Hope this helps.

Very helpful indeed, thank you. And skye driver also thanks.

[austin]

I have both a Morris Minor & Austin 7(s).

The Morris is more work to keep going than the Austin. They rust and then rust some more, lucky if there is any paint at all on the inside of cills etc when built.

Take someone who knows them well to look at them underneath.

According to my insurer they are the two cheapest classics to insure.

[crankedup5]

austin said:

I have both a Morris Minor & Austin 7(s).

The Morris is more work to keep going than the Austin. They rust and then rust some more, lucky if there is any paint at all on the inside of cills etc when built.

Take someone who knows them well to look at them underneath.

According to my insurer they are the two cheapest classics to insure.

Thank you for input.
The big thing with pre war is of course we can see everything, no hidden rust. And the A7 has a huge following much like the MM.

[eccles]

crankedup5 said:

Think I will buy from a specialist dealer with reputation. Last thing I want is somebody else’s death trap.
Thing is an A7 chummy is around 14/15k which is a bit strong for me. The MM can be had for around 10k for a decent car. Not sure about the top joints you mention.

South Norfolk Classics in Diss get some lovely cars in, the only downside is that they tend to ask a lot for them as they are that nice!

[cjb44]

eccles said:

South Norfolk Classics in Diss get some lovely cars in, the only downside is that they tend to ask a lot for them as they are that nice!

I agree, and many of his cars are bought at Matthewson's auction.

[courty]

The main thing on moggie convertibles is: are they original or chopped saloons(edit, convertibles have strengthened side sills..or they were stronger originally from factory to make up for lack of roof)? I think chassis number will let you know but mmoc will let you know details on this.
Second, once you have ascertained and original convertible...how is the bodywork? Box sections all over the place...difficult to know for sure without photo evidence with kick plates off...chassis rails(containg brake cylinder!), rear spring hangers, centre cross member with jack points, where front spring bar attaches...
Then after that...I found the 948cc the sweetest engine, series mm and s2 pretty poor for usability. 948 Minor 1000 a sweet spot, 1959-63 iirc, although many will have the 1098cc engine swapped. For best usability get upgraded 1275cc or 1098cc with 1275 head, with telescopic dampers, front discs, or at least Woleseley 1500 drums. But yeah, Morris Minors will rust everywhere...and brake cylinders, wheel and master will seize, and trunnion will wear...oh, and they will rust too, did I mention that?

Edited by courty on Saturday 21st January 18:41

Edited by courty on Saturday 21st January 18:43

[courty]

The main thing on moggie convertibles is: are they original or chopped saloons(edit, convertibles have strengthened side sills..or they were stronger originally from factory to make up for lack of roof)? I think chassis number will let you know but mmoc will let you know details on this.
Second, once you have ascertained and original convertible...how is the bodywork? Box sections all over the place...difficult to know for sure without photo evidence with kick plates off...chassis rails(containg brake cylinder!), rear spring hangers, centre cross member with jack points, where front spring bar attaches...
Then after that...I found the 948cc the sweetest engine, series mm and s2 pretty poor for usability. 948 Minor 1000 a sweet spot, 1959-63 iirc, although many will have the 1098cc engine swapped. For best usability get upgraded 1275cc or 1098cc with 1275 head, with telescopic dampers, front discs, or at least Woleseley 1500 drums. But yeah, Morris Minors will rust everywhere...and brake cylinders, wheel and master will seize, and trunnion and bushes will wear...oh, and they will rust too, did I mention that?

Edited by courty on Saturday 21st January 18:41

Edited by courty on Saturday 21st January 18:44

[crankedup5]

Thanks for brilliant tips and information to all posters in here. The dear old ‘moggie’ has been around forever and is a lovely little classic runaround. But as ever, can catch out the unwary it seems. My last ownership was back in 1986, that car was stolen and recovered as a write off.

[AMGSee55]

Consider these guys OP - https://westridingclassics.co.uk/

Not the cheapest but I believe they know their stuff and are well regarded in MM circles. They deal as far as I can see in quality stock, not ‘patchwork quilt’ cars.

[davepen]

crankedup5 said:

an A7 chummy is around 14/15k, which is a bit strong for me. The MM can be had for around 10k for a decent car.

With a chummy you'll be paying for an Open Car and a Vintage (or VSCC) premium, as they are used in main club and LCES events. They can be great fun, I know some owners of bigger cars that say the chummy will always stay - and they are great for the Grandkids to play with. A later 1930's LWB A7 and the Ruby's are a bit cheaper, but less "cute". All A7 use similar bits, and are well supported by the trade.

I do wonder if some more cars will be available now after last year's 100 years bash at Moreton-in-Marsh.
My only real experience with the MM is a traveller, but to my mind, an MGB could be a better BMC option?

[crankedup5]

AMGSee55 said:

Consider these guys OP - https://westridingclassics.co.uk/

Not the cheapest but I believe they know their stuff and are well regarded in MM circles. They deal as far as I can see in quality stock, not ‘patchwork quilt’ cars.

Great link, thanks.

[crankedup5]

davepen said:

crankedup5 said:

an A7 chummy is around 14/15k, which is a bit strong for me. The MM can be had for around 10k for a decent car.

With a chummy you'll be paying for an Open Car and a Vintage (or VSCC) premium, as they are used in main club and LCES events. They can be great fun, I know some owners of bigger cars that say the chummy will always stay - and they are great for the Grandkids to play with. A later 1930's LWB A7 and the Ruby's are a bit cheaper, but less "cute". All A7 use similar bits, and are well supported by the trade.

I do wonder if some more cars will be available now after last year's 100 years bash at Moreton-in-Marsh.
My only real experience with the MM is a traveller, but to my mind, an MGB could be a better BMC option?

Yes I agree, the Chummy have always been near or at ‘top of the crop’. I need to take my time and wait for the right car to show up. Wether that’s A7 or MM.