Waxoyl is it a good thing?
Discussion
I've found that nowadays it's very much a case of "you get what you pay for". I have used Bilt hamber products on my Lancer and after 5 years it's still looking fresh.
I can't say I'm a big fan of Waxoyl, I've used it in the past but there's other stuff out there which is far superior, easier to apply and probably longer lasting.
I can't say I'm a big fan of Waxoyl, I've used it in the past but there's other stuff out there which is far superior, easier to apply and probably longer lasting.
,Hippea said:
I’ve had good experiences with Bilt Hamber, I like the UC as it’s clear and I don’t like gloopy products.
I’ve heard good things about Lanoguard but haven’t used it myself
The advantage of UC clear is you can wipe off if needed and see anything going on underneath rather than it being hidden. I’ve heard good things about Lanoguard but haven’t used it myself
My alfa was fully coated and once its gone solid and dried on it sticks so well. Hire some ramps and wear paper disposable overalls and an old cap though!
Their dynax50 for inside box sections is excellent too.
I have a 1996 Escort Cosworth - one of the last 100 made, like all Fords of that era they rust like crazy. Many an owner has found horrors lurking being the skirts and bumpers, even on pristine cars (the sunroof drains route to the sills - great idea that).
When I purchased it 16 years ago it has a small bubble of corrosion on the tailgate by the lower window, small spot on one front wing and we could see the starts across the inner front panel. I used it for a couple of years, then decided I wanted it tidied up. My dad was a director at the time of family independent garage, been trading 65 years now so it went there for a bare metal repaint. He did the work himself, using older techniques such as lead loading. I did the stripping down myself, at times dreading what i would find.
But, bar the above mentioned spots plus some surface scabs as the ends of both sills it was really good - even the dreaded towing eye mounts were fine. When I took the trim/carpets out the reason became clear. All the interior rubber grommits had been removed early in it's life and every cavity heavily treated with waxoyl. The only welded patch required was a 1.5 inch square by a drivers seat mount, the rest was clean up, treat with inhibitor and primer. The foresight of a previous early owner had 100% prevented tin worm. We reapplied waxoyl again as the work was done using the correct fan type nozzles.
The car has been done over 10 years now, it was MOT'd in April and I had a good nosey around - touch wood, it's like it was when it was first finished and it has been used in all weathers since. The first signs are blowing of the seams where the sills meet the floor pans, mine are fine still.
There are now better, newer products but back then wayoyl was the go to, and it worked on this one of mine.
When I purchased it 16 years ago it has a small bubble of corrosion on the tailgate by the lower window, small spot on one front wing and we could see the starts across the inner front panel. I used it for a couple of years, then decided I wanted it tidied up. My dad was a director at the time of family independent garage, been trading 65 years now so it went there for a bare metal repaint. He did the work himself, using older techniques such as lead loading. I did the stripping down myself, at times dreading what i would find.
But, bar the above mentioned spots plus some surface scabs as the ends of both sills it was really good - even the dreaded towing eye mounts were fine. When I took the trim/carpets out the reason became clear. All the interior rubber grommits had been removed early in it's life and every cavity heavily treated with waxoyl. The only welded patch required was a 1.5 inch square by a drivers seat mount, the rest was clean up, treat with inhibitor and primer. The foresight of a previous early owner had 100% prevented tin worm. We reapplied waxoyl again as the work was done using the correct fan type nozzles.
The car has been done over 10 years now, it was MOT'd in April and I had a good nosey around - touch wood, it's like it was when it was first finished and it has been used in all weathers since. The first signs are blowing of the seams where the sills meet the floor pans, mine are fine still.
There are now better, newer products but back then wayoyl was the go to, and it worked on this one of mine.
I too have only used Waxoyl on my cars. Although, it is messy stuff. Still worth it in my opinion. However, Lanoguard has been recommended to me by quite a few folk now. So, I purchased a kit from them earlier in the week. Should arrive tomorrow. I'll coat the new Gilbern chassis in it soon, and practically everywhere on the MX5 once it is back from the paint booth.
Which of these products; Linoguard, Dinitrol or clear Waxoyl would be recommended for the highly visible areas of the inner front wings of a vintage car? They are body coloured but not that polished. It's a winter task to clean them of road dirt and under teh running boards and I thought I apply something like Linogard to finish the job.
Rust protection, cavity waxing and underbody sealing - yes, a good thing.
Waxoyl, is not that.
There are much better, much more modern and advanced products to use.
I've used Dinitrol to great effect on a number of cars, keeping them in fine fettle for years. I also used to use it in a commercial environment so go to know some of the technical stuff.
Lots of reading here: https://www.dinitroldirect.com/
However, remember:
You need to treat/remove the rust before you cover it up.
Much like planting a tree, the best time to do it was 20 years ago!
Waxoyl, is not that.
There are much better, much more modern and advanced products to use.
I've used Dinitrol to great effect on a number of cars, keeping them in fine fettle for years. I also used to use it in a commercial environment so go to know some of the technical stuff.
Lots of reading here: https://www.dinitroldirect.com/
However, remember:
DoddsyFrs said:
...Underneath has some surface rust on the subframes and suspension components . So I am thinking of putting the car in somewhere to have it professionally rustproofed
Rust proofing doesnt REMOVE rust, it stops it developing. And if theres rust on the outside bits you can see, theres definitely rust in the inside. You need to treat/remove the rust before you cover it up.
Much like planting a tree, the best time to do it was 20 years ago!
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