Anyonw know about Scimiters?
Discussion
Ultra-reliable Capri V6 basis, with a lightweight fibreglass body and a well-trimmed GT-style interior, all available for peanuts, really amazing value for what they are and quite practical too with that boot.
Most valuable variant is the GTC, a sort of targa-convertible.
Best go for a manual transmission one though - for some reason they can get up to 10mpg more than the autos - I don't think they chose the 'box very well.
Chassis rust is the only point to watch. Brilliant cars by all accounts - poor man's Aston V8.
Most valuable variant is the GTC, a sort of targa-convertible.
Best go for a manual transmission one though - for some reason they can get up to 10mpg more than the autos - I don't think they chose the 'box very well.
Chassis rust is the only point to watch. Brilliant cars by all accounts - poor man's Aston V8.
The IFS is always a pain on Scimitars - its the old Standard-Triumph set-up and, although it gives perfectly good handling, its not really up to the wieght of the car & the cornering forces that it imposes and it wears really quickly. It's cheap and easy to re-build though.
Other big watch-outs are dodgy earthing problems that drain the batteries, shagged interiors that were very fragile when the cars were new & are very expensive to repair now and poorly executed GRP bodywork repairs
Generally the SE5/SE5A (up to 1975) are considered more sporting than the larger and more comfortable SE6/SE6A/Middlebridge models that followed. The SE6 onward cars are however much better equipped and better set up for everyday use. Though its a personal taste thing, I think that they are better looking and they come in some fantastic retro 70s colour schemes....
Other big watch-outs are dodgy earthing problems that drain the batteries, shagged interiors that were very fragile when the cars were new & are very expensive to repair now and poorly executed GRP bodywork repairs
Generally the SE5/SE5A (up to 1975) are considered more sporting than the larger and more comfortable SE6/SE6A/Middlebridge models that followed. The SE6 onward cars are however much better equipped and better set up for everyday use. Though its a personal taste thing, I think that they are better looking and they come in some fantastic retro 70s colour schemes....
Try speaking to Kev at Avon Custom,tho they primarily do Max power type stuff now,Scimitars used to be his main thing.He still has 1/2 doz or so lying around the yard in various states of repair-so,may be good for spares too.
www.avoncustom.co.uk/
TEl: 01934-830188
www.avoncustom.co.uk/
TEl: 01934-830188
I've had an '73 SE5a for about 6 years. They are great cars - and completely pratical as a four seat or when the seats are down the rear is cavernous. If you like smoking tyres, these cars are it!.. being powerful and light. I think they handle brilliantly - most have already have SPAX all round so you can tinker with settings anyway. Plus the engine is slung very low and very far back under the bonnet giving good weight distribution. Other things to watch for are most have a poor paint finish (due to age), and door drop due to weaking fibreglass. Mines just been resprayed and I might be selling it... I have to shift either that or my XJ6. It's a tough decision! There's some pics of it at www.davidnugent.com/Cars/Scimitar%20AFter/
Had a couple for the last ten years or so.
They're very simple and very easy to look after if you do things thoroughly.
Electrics are almost always weak - but all standard Lucas fare and most problems caused by poor earthing.
Front suspension is marginal and so requires a certain amount of TLC: I'd always budget for a complete overhaul of this: get it done right and you won't have to do it again.
Lots have noisy rear axles - and lots of people get scared at the thought of the cost of a rebuilt diff, but the noise is usually down to knackered rear wheel bearings, which are fairly simple to DIY.
Chassis peripherals - outriggers, sill-rails - rust, but the main rails tend not to. Almost all can be repaired without the need to remove the body.
You have to try hard, however, to find one with good paint and no stress damage in the body. They also fill up with water because people work on the doors and forget to re-seal the plastic sheet that keeps the wet out.
There are one or two trim bits that are hard to find new, but plentiful seconhand supplies.
You can get a good one for less than £1,500 - my preference is the SE5a, the later version of the early body type, like this:
because they're lighter, handle a little better, and have simpler, vinyl interiors that last better.
They're very simple and very easy to look after if you do things thoroughly.
Electrics are almost always weak - but all standard Lucas fare and most problems caused by poor earthing.
Front suspension is marginal and so requires a certain amount of TLC: I'd always budget for a complete overhaul of this: get it done right and you won't have to do it again.
Lots have noisy rear axles - and lots of people get scared at the thought of the cost of a rebuilt diff, but the noise is usually down to knackered rear wheel bearings, which are fairly simple to DIY.
Chassis peripherals - outriggers, sill-rails - rust, but the main rails tend not to. Almost all can be repaired without the need to remove the body.
You have to try hard, however, to find one with good paint and no stress damage in the body. They also fill up with water because people work on the doors and forget to re-seal the plastic sheet that keeps the wet out.
There are one or two trim bits that are hard to find new, but plentiful seconhand supplies.
You can get a good one for less than £1,500 - my preference is the SE5a, the later version of the early body type, like this:
because they're lighter, handle a little better, and have simpler, vinyl interiors that last better.
Had a 6a for about 5 years, now onto an earlier 5a IMHO much more of a "drivers" car, i think the most important thing to get right is engine Cooling !
front suspension is ok if set up right and then maintained (yes you have to grease them).
Dash top panels crack in the sun and i agree with the previous posts regarding body/paint finishes.
Don't be fooled by Ford's and hence Reliants claims about 138bhp you are lucky if an unmodded engine is kicking out 125bhp but this is over looking the beauty of the engine: it has masses of torque quoted figures around 172 foot/lbs.
These cars are NOT that light though they are not like TVR's, they are a more substantial car.
Having spent 1K on having the heads gas flowed inc some slightly bigger valves, a fast road cam, gas flowed inlet manifold. ported and letted carb (upto twin 40's) and the obligatory K&N filter mine achieved 162bhp and 190 foot/lbs torque with a veri impressive torque curve giving great pick up at anything over 1500rpm.
All in all BUY ONE but buy the best you can afford there are loads for sale, for a bigger initail outlay you could get a good 5a that is tax exempt and will need little attention other than maintenance.
front suspension is ok if set up right and then maintained (yes you have to grease them).
Dash top panels crack in the sun and i agree with the previous posts regarding body/paint finishes.
Don't be fooled by Ford's and hence Reliants claims about 138bhp you are lucky if an unmodded engine is kicking out 125bhp but this is over looking the beauty of the engine: it has masses of torque quoted figures around 172 foot/lbs.
These cars are NOT that light though they are not like TVR's, they are a more substantial car.
Having spent 1K on having the heads gas flowed inc some slightly bigger valves, a fast road cam, gas flowed inlet manifold. ported and letted carb (upto twin 40's) and the obligatory K&N filter mine achieved 162bhp and 190 foot/lbs torque with a veri impressive torque curve giving great pick up at anything over 1500rpm.
All in all BUY ONE but buy the best you can afford there are loads for sale, for a bigger initail outlay you could get a good 5a that is tax exempt and will need little attention other than maintenance.
I've got one of the rare Se6B's. Cracking car. As with all old cars things go wrong from time to time (mainly electrics). But they're a great drivers car and certainly stand out from the crowd. They'll still put many modern sportscars to shame. Prices appear to be creeping up too.
Buy one! I'd recommend you join the owners club and buy from an enthusiast. Good Scimitars are pretty hard to find.
Buy one! I'd recommend you join the owners club and buy from an enthusiast. Good Scimitars are pretty hard to find.
Had so much fun in our SE6 , we sold it and then bought it back again !!
Great car covered 110k in it if anyone knows the whereabouts of LKC860R , a Forest Green SE6 let us know !
edited to add : I will get in trouble if I don't mention Mrs H , won the "Fastest Lady" in it ,two years running at Curborough
>> Edited by NHyde on Thursday 3rd March 19:22
Great car covered 110k in it if anyone knows the whereabouts of LKC860R , a Forest Green SE6 let us know !
edited to add : I will get in trouble if I don't mention Mrs H , won the "Fastest Lady" in it ,two years running at Curborough
>> Edited by NHyde on Thursday 3rd March 19:22
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