Starting problem
Discussion
Hi,
I have a problem with starting my Rochdale GT, it has a triumph 1500 engine and SU carbs. When I turn the key the engine turns over, starts and then cuts out. I try repeatedly and does the same, eventully I get it started. When it runs first it trys to die but when it gets going it is fine and there are no problems. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Thanks William
I have a problem with starting my Rochdale GT, it has a triumph 1500 engine and SU carbs. When I turn the key the engine turns over, starts and then cuts out. I try repeatedly and does the same, eventully I get it started. When it runs first it trys to die but when it gets going it is fine and there are no problems. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Thanks William
- tried this? the symptoms were exactly as you describegti is fuel injection minimax 
Have you checked to make sure the choke butterflys are operating correctly?
Does it idle correctly when warm? perhaps adjusting our clearing out the idle jets if it doesnt.
My renault 5 is carbed and only starts 3rd time when its cold, this I suspect is down to a small fuel / air leak where the carb meets the inlet manifold (hot inlet manifold transfers heat to thin metal of carb and carb warps on the r5).
Do you use the car often? if its not a frequent runner itd be worth removing all the jets from the carbs and giving them a good dousing in carb cleaner.
Have you checked to make sure the choke butterflys are operating correctly?
Does it idle correctly when warm? perhaps adjusting our clearing out the idle jets if it doesnt.
My renault 5 is carbed and only starts 3rd time when its cold, this I suspect is down to a small fuel / air leak where the carb meets the inlet manifold (hot inlet manifold transfers heat to thin metal of carb and carb warps on the r5).
Do you use the car often? if its not a frequent runner itd be worth removing all the jets from the carbs and giving them a good dousing in carb cleaner.
wculbert said:
Hi,
I have a problem with starting my Rochdale GT, it has a triumph 1500 engine and SU carbs. When I turn the key the engine turns over, starts and then cuts out. I try repeatedly and does the same, eventully I get it started. When it runs first it trys to die but when it gets going it is fine and there are no problems. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Thanks William
I already answered this but just realised it's also on another forum!
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=149188&f=23&h=0
this is why I pay others to sort my cars First off it sounds like simply that your choke isn't set correctly. This would differenitate its reluctance to run properly when cold, but ok when warm.
As a test manually operate the choke at the carb (not by the cable) and have someone start the car for you - see what happens. I used to have to do this when my BGT was running twin SUs and the choke cable snapped.
A choke works two ways, raises idle speed and adjust mixture. If you lift the choke pivot at the carb till you hear a slight ping, this is when the bottom pins have moved to adjust mixture. Before the ping noise, all the choke is doing is adjusting the idle. It is likely that when you pull out the choke at the dashboard, you aren't getting to the mixture change so no start.
I would however recommend a full twin carb tune, but you must adjust the choke cable seperately once the carbs are tuned, because the two are slightly seperate "circuits" if you will...
As a test manually operate the choke at the carb (not by the cable) and have someone start the car for you - see what happens. I used to have to do this when my BGT was running twin SUs and the choke cable snapped.
A choke works two ways, raises idle speed and adjust mixture. If you lift the choke pivot at the carb till you hear a slight ping, this is when the bottom pins have moved to adjust mixture. Before the ping noise, all the choke is doing is adjusting the idle. It is likely that when you pull out the choke at the dashboard, you aren't getting to the mixture change so no start.
I would however recommend a full twin carb tune, but you must adjust the choke cable seperately once the carbs are tuned, because the two are slightly seperate "circuits" if you will...
...and SUs don't have a choke butterfly I agree it does sound like a choke problem.
The choke both operates a cam to increase the idle slightly by pushing on an adjustable screw to open the throttle butterfly a bit, and later operates a linkage to pull the jet down to richen the mixture. You should be able to see both of these mechanisms operating when you operate the choke at the carb, then compare what you see with what you see when you operate the choke control on the dash (having closed it again at the carb first because they don't always return properly when you open them at the carb).
(I'm assuming you don't have the later HIF swing-needle SUs, which I've never fiddled with so don't know much about but have a different choke mechanism - I think they have a separate choke circuit like a bike carb.)
I agree it does sound like a choke problem. The choke both operates a cam to increase the idle slightly by pushing on an adjustable screw to open the throttle butterfly a bit, and later operates a linkage to pull the jet down to richen the mixture. You should be able to see both of these mechanisms operating when you operate the choke at the carb, then compare what you see with what you see when you operate the choke control on the dash (having closed it again at the carb first because they don't always return properly when you open them at the carb).
(I'm assuming you don't have the later HIF swing-needle SUs, which I've never fiddled with so don't know much about but have a different choke mechanism - I think they have a separate choke circuit like a bike carb.)
The HIF does indeed have an enrichener, just like the Mikunis and Keihins on Jap bikes. They seem to me to be less fiddly than the earlier carbs, but they are harder to find tuning parts for.
Although, bone stock, they work very well with my B's engine, which just has the European higher-compression pistons and is otherwise stock. They will go more than rich enough for what I want to do with the car.
Awhile back I ended up cleaning up some electrical contacts like the battery terminals and the main positive junction on the starter solenoid - actually I was trying to get rid of a gremlin that was making my Valentine-1 act up when run from the cigarette lighter...but when I cleaned all this stuff up a side benefit was much better starting...just from a better spark I guess. This on a 70 MGB.
The gremlin BTW was a fuse that had got 'warm' on one end and some solder had sweated out. This would supply power to the V-1 fine for maybe 5 to 10 minutes but once off on a proper hoon (where you really need the damn thing!) I would start getting spurious laser alarms. Tracked it to the fuse, basically I started at the battery and cleaned connections hand over hand till I found the offender..
Although, bone stock, they work very well with my B's engine, which just has the European higher-compression pistons and is otherwise stock. They will go more than rich enough for what I want to do with the car.
Awhile back I ended up cleaning up some electrical contacts like the battery terminals and the main positive junction on the starter solenoid - actually I was trying to get rid of a gremlin that was making my Valentine-1 act up when run from the cigarette lighter...but when I cleaned all this stuff up a side benefit was much better starting...just from a better spark I guess. This on a 70 MGB.
The gremlin BTW was a fuse that had got 'warm' on one end and some solder had sweated out. This would supply power to the V-1 fine for maybe 5 to 10 minutes but once off on a proper hoon (where you really need the damn thing!) I would start getting spurious laser alarms. Tracked it to the fuse, basically I started at the battery and cleaned connections hand over hand till I found the offender..
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