The Range Rover Classic thread
Discussion
Started the long awaited restoration on my 93 Classic today, engine is out (it turned into a water feature), Front body mounts need replacement panels welding in, some work to top of inner wings but she is not too bad otherwise, lots of fuel lines etc need replacing.
I turned my attention to the back, dropped the tail gate, removed the support arms, and the whole tailgate, and the hinges, and most of the rear crossmember that has the body mounts on it, fell off.
So some welding needed there too.
I turned my attention to the back, dropped the tail gate, removed the support arms, and the whole tailgate, and the hinges, and most of the rear crossmember that has the body mounts on it, fell off.
So some welding needed there too.
Here’s my old girl. Not a classic classic, but a P38 classic. Mechanically spot on as I’ve done some bodywork to make it as I want it. Done the usual stuff like blend motors myself, along with the heater matrix. Also had the suspension bags done and new dampers and bushes all round. Pretty reliable if you stay on top of maintenance, misunderstood beasts.
NomduJour said:
You can, but it’s a fair bit of work vs paint and applying the stickers.
It is but the rust in these tailgates is relentless. It's not just where the seams were bodged together but the s
t metal that has actual rust inside it from the foundry. It's relentless and unstoppable like the Terminator or nagging partners. Delete and replace being the only true option despite the initial cost. 
I think by the time the rot has been cut out and a patch and repair done sufficiently to not show the reskin is quicker and better.
I've a spot that's appeared at the bottom of mine and I'm going to dig it out, treat, fill and touch up over winter just to because it'll cost nothing and buy a couple more years but a reskin is inevitable if planning to keep.
NomduJour said:
KingGary said:
Get stuck in!
That’s why I haven’t.https://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/dash-removal/
Thinking about some upgrades …
Is Ashcroft still the go-to for refurbed transmissions? My gearbox is slipping sometimes and has already had new fluid and filter so may be on its way out
Engine wise I know Twenty Ten seem to only use John Eales but any thoughts on Turner or RPI most welcome.
I will probably rebuild or exchange my standard 3.9 for a 4.2
Is Ashcroft still the go-to for refurbed transmissions? My gearbox is slipping sometimes and has already had new fluid and filter so may be on its way out
Engine wise I know Twenty Ten seem to only use John Eales but any thoughts on Turner or RPI most welcome.
I will probably rebuild or exchange my standard 3.9 for a 4.2
squirdan said:
Thinking about some upgrades …
Is Ashcroft still the go-to for refurbed transmissions? My gearbox is slipping sometimes and has already had new fluid and filter so may be on its way out
Engine wise I know Twenty Ten seem to only use John Eales but any thoughts on Turner or RPI most welcome.
I will probably rebuild or exchange my standard 3.9 for a 4.2
RPI have ceased trading, I used V8 Developments for my Disco 4.6Is Ashcroft still the go-to for refurbed transmissions? My gearbox is slipping sometimes and has already had new fluid and filter so may be on its way out
Engine wise I know Twenty Ten seem to only use John Eales but any thoughts on Turner or RPI most welcome.
I will probably rebuild or exchange my standard 3.9 for a 4.2
squirdan said:
Thinking about some upgrades …
Is Ashcroft still the go-to for refurbed transmissions? My gearbox is slipping sometimes and has already had new fluid and filter so may be on its way out
Engine wise I know Twenty Ten seem to only use John Eales but any thoughts on Turner or RPI most welcome.
I will probably rebuild or exchange my standard 3.9 for a 4.2
I don't really rate RPI and certainly not for engines to make tanks with slushpumps deliver their best. John Eales just seem to be dependable every time and they certainly know all about setting an RV8 up for our sort of wagons. Is Ashcroft still the go-to for refurbed transmissions? My gearbox is slipping sometimes and has already had new fluid and filter so may be on its way out
Engine wise I know Twenty Ten seem to only use John Eales but any thoughts on Turner or RPI most welcome.
I will probably rebuild or exchange my standard 3.9 for a 4.2
I've not heard anything to suggest Ashcroft still aren't the only people worth going to for the chunky bits.
If I were starting another project I think I'd opt for the electronic version of the box and adding Compushift and investing the hours in creating a nice change map.
If it's an all new engine then, to be honest, I'd also go 4.6.
It's not about power for power's sake but about having power getting through the ZF box at 50-70 to just get passed Mrs Miggins and his hypermiling.
Rob at V8Devs seemed to know his stuff but a John Eales 4.6 with the right cam for where the slushpump needs the power is going to be hard to better.
I still have the Rotrex supercharger to fit to the 4.0 in my '72. I went that route as it meant the car just drive normally under 2k rpm but would deliver a lump of boost for overtaking when needed. Of starting again I'd go the simpler route of a JE 4.6 and even consider a big holly carb purely for the noise.
It's not about power for power's sake but about having power getting through the ZF box at 50-70 to just get passed Mrs Miggins and his hypermiling.
Rob at V8Devs seemed to know his stuff but a John Eales 4.6 with the right cam for where the slushpump needs the power is going to be hard to better.
I still have the Rotrex supercharger to fit to the 4.0 in my '72. I went that route as it meant the car just drive normally under 2k rpm but would deliver a lump of boost for overtaking when needed. Of starting again I'd go the simpler route of a JE 4.6 and even consider a big holly carb purely for the noise.
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