The Range Rover Classic thread
Discussion
skwdenyer said:
DonkeyApple said:
That's the dark brown plastic. There were a couple of colours for the dash and all that stuff.
There was the dark brown plastic which was Bokhara. Then there was the dark brown leather and carpet, both almost a Bournville Chocolate sort of brown? I'm sure they had two different names.
I spent ages searching on EBay for all the Bokhara trim and the leather seats (common in an LSE and the carpet.
Unfortunately the range-rover-classic.com website appears to have gone and it's taken with it the huge resource where this information sat.
range-rover-classic.com is at least available on the Internet Archive:There was the dark brown plastic which was Bokhara. Then there was the dark brown leather and carpet, both almost a Bournville Chocolate sort of brown? I'm sure they had two different names.
I spent ages searching on EBay for all the Bokhara trim and the leather seats (common in an LSE and the carpet.
Unfortunately the range-rover-classic.com website appears to have gone and it's taken with it the huge resource where this information sat.
https://web.archive.org/web/20230208025803/http://...
On the topic of RRCs, I'm following this thread because I've always had a soft spot. A friend of mine had an Overfinch when new (from memory, it was basically a 570 but without the 5.7 V8 conversion, i.e. precision steering, quick rack, all-new suspension, and so on). He was also an instructor at Silverstone, so was rather handy with this (for the time) huge beast on the road, which handled in a way that (again, for the time) seemed to defy physics.
I only drove it the once, but was smitten with everything except the awful driving position - I have longer legs than I have arms, and the steering wheel seemed a very long way away.
I missed the chance to buy various JE Engineering and Overfinch beasts back in the early days of eBay (they used to sell for a few thousands - and there was the single prototype Land Rover 110 570i that IIRC made £2-3k too) - always, if I'm honest, put off by the tales of rust, and my memory of that compromised driving position.
Is the driving position as bad as I remember? Is there anything that can be done about it, short of a "carlos fandango" super-dished wheel? For some reason I'm still drawn to these beasts (despite having no need for any more expensive mistresses in my life...).
With long legs you definitely need a smaller steering wheel, which are easy to source but what you'll probably find is that you lack seat support under your thighs which causes discomfort on long journeys. However retrimming the seat with support or tilting the base back are options.
Sadly mine has now come up with the dreaded brake warning light again. I replaced the accumulator (mine is a 1990) and now intermittently you get the light and very unassisted brakes, ie when in drive it takes your bodyweight on the pedal to stop it creeping. Turn on and off again and it is fine.
Sounds electrical to me given the intermittency but I already replaced the relay.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate, failing that it is old school diagnostics. It’s a little scary to drive now obviously, an emergency stop would take 100 feet from 20mph….
Sounds electrical to me given the intermittency but I already replaced the relay.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate, failing that it is old school diagnostics. It’s a little scary to drive now obviously, an emergency stop would take 100 feet from 20mph….
Random electrical question.
I've got a diesel in one of my RRC and trying to get the rev-counter to read correctly. The alternator spins slower than the landrover alternators due to pulley sizes and that's where it gets it's signal from.
The circuitry that drives the tacho is basically the same as the MGB one I've found reference to here: https://e2e.ti.com/cfs-file/__key/communityserver-... (page 8).
The author is a Brit electrical engineer living in the USA with the name of Rick Astley. He's reverse engineered it and got all sorts of instructions for sorting 4/6/8 cylinder operation but I need an idiots guide to making it read ~50% higher instead of lower.
I've got a diesel in one of my RRC and trying to get the rev-counter to read correctly. The alternator spins slower than the landrover alternators due to pulley sizes and that's where it gets it's signal from.
The circuitry that drives the tacho is basically the same as the MGB one I've found reference to here: https://e2e.ti.com/cfs-file/__key/communityserver-... (page 8).
The author is a Brit electrical engineer living in the USA with the name of Rick Astley. He's reverse engineered it and got all sorts of instructions for sorting 4/6/8 cylinder operation but I need an idiots guide to making it read ~50% higher instead of lower.
ReformedPistonhead said:
Sadly mine has now come up with the dreaded brake warning light again. I replaced the accumulator (mine is a 1990) and now intermittently you get the light and very unassisted brakes, ie when in drive it takes your bodyweight on the pedal to stop it creeping. Turn on and off again and it is fine.
Sounds electrical to me given the intermittency but I already replaced the relay.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate, failing that it is old school diagnostics. It’s a little scary to drive now obviously, an emergency stop would take 100 feet from 20mph….
My 93 did that. I found a cracked solder joint of the power (or earth can't recall) to the ABS pump motor. That and it needs an almost new battery to behave. With the ABS and EAS it sucks a lot of amps and if volts drop anything can stop working.Sounds electrical to me given the intermittency but I already replaced the relay.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate, failing that it is old school diagnostics. It’s a little scary to drive now obviously, an emergency stop would take 100 feet from 20mph….
Check all the simple and cheap stuff first.
Kiwibacon said:
Random electrical question.
The author is a Brit electrical engineer living in the USA with the name of Rick Astley. He's reverse engineered it and got all sorts of instructions for sorting 4/6/8 cylinder operation but I need an idiots guide to making it read ~50% higher instead of lower.
Ask Rick? He’s never gonna let you down. The author is a Brit electrical engineer living in the USA with the name of Rick Astley. He's reverse engineered it and got all sorts of instructions for sorting 4/6/8 cylinder operation but I need an idiots guide to making it read ~50% higher instead of lower.
Kiwibacon said:
ReformedPistonhead said:
Sadly mine has now come up with the dreaded brake warning light again. I replaced the accumulator (mine is a 1990) and now intermittently you get the light and very unassisted brakes, ie when in drive it takes your bodyweight on the pedal to stop it creeping. Turn on and off again and it is fine.
Sounds electrical to me given the intermittency but I already replaced the relay.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate, failing that it is old school diagnostics. It’s a little scary to drive now obviously, an emergency stop would take 100 feet from 20mph….
My 93 did that. I found a cracked solder joint of the power (or earth can't recall) to the ABS pump motor. That and it needs an almost new battery to behave. With the ABS and EAS it sucks a lot of amps and if volts drop anything can stop working.Sounds electrical to me given the intermittency but I already replaced the relay.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate, failing that it is old school diagnostics. It’s a little scary to drive now obviously, an emergency stop would take 100 feet from 20mph….
Check all the simple and cheap stuff first.
I don’t like brakes and pressure, much happier with things that take a spanner or hammer to fix.
Didn’t sell at auction, then listed as ‘buy it now for £28,750’
https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
soxboy said:
Didn’t sell at auction, then listed as ‘buy it now for £28,750’
https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Was discussing this with the chap who restored my car yesterday. Appears to be no real issue selling the really good stuff but pricing on the stuff that needs work or isn't top notch has pulled right back. https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Suspect it's a general combination of people not wanting to borrow to get stuff and no one wanting to pay over the top for stuff that needs very costly work?
DonkeyApple said:
soxboy said:
Didn’t sell at auction, then listed as ‘buy it now for £28,750’
https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Was discussing this with the chap who restored my car yesterday. Appears to be no real issue selling the really good stuff but pricing on the stuff that needs work or isn't top notch has pulled right back. https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Suspect it's a general combination of people not wanting to borrow to get stuff and no one wanting to pay over the top for stuff that needs very costly work?
akirk said:
or simply that those with disposable cash to buy a non-necessary car are at the richer end and so if you are buying on you might as well have it fully done...
Absolutely. That's why the top stuff is still selling and at big prices. They're still sourcing the right project cars and carrying out restorations for those clients. soxboy said:
Didn’t sell at auction, then listed as ‘buy it now for £28,750’
https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Agree, way too expensive for the condition.https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
RobXjcoupe said:
Morning all, I’m getting close to start a restoration and a question I’ve wondered was electric operated windows for a 2 door. I assume the csk version has electric power windows, did that use the same motor assembly etc as a 4 door?
Cheers for any advice
Hi Rob. Different, from memory. I suspect it's the system from a 2 door Disco that was used, vice versa. Cheers for any advice
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