Are cars less characterful than they used to be?
Discussion
bumskins said:
Probably not the best person to answer (as i've never liked Slotmags) but think from that image it looks good on the Cosmics! Just wondering, is that Wedgewood Blue? Looks a lovely colour either way.
Evil.soup said:
I do have to admit, that is a very nice thing indeed and the wheel do work for it. I particularly like the colour, it's a bit different.
Thanks both. According to the tin of paint that came with it, yes, it's Wedgewood Blue. Inside of doors / under bonnet etc reveals that it started out darker blue, but I quite like the lighter shade. If I ever went back to Le Mans I could always put a big orange stripe and some Gulf logos on it...
So to draw an end to this phase of the 6's improvements, I gingerly drove home from the tyre fitters on Friday evening with the car sounding literally like a steam engine: a rhythmic chuffing on the straights, louder and more of a squeal on roundabouts and almost disappearing on left turns (of which there are never enough, if that's the only time your car is quiet).
Playing around on t'internet showed me that 5mm spacers were available, from unknown sources on eBay or from Rimmer Bros Triumph Specialists - expensive but likely to supply something of a decent quality and known to fit. Duly ordered, I sat back and marvelled at my engineering abilities over a glass of wine.
Later that evening I received an email from Rimmers confirming despatch of my order, which seemed impressive. When they arrived next morning I was frankly gobsmacked, but had them fitted by lunchtime and they appear to provide just enough clearance to make for quiet running. I'm a little unsure of one bolt on each hub, which seemed not to nip up as convincingly as the others, and I don't want to strip threads or anything, so I'll take Just Tyres up on their offer to check torques after 30 miles or so.
While I had the extended wheelbrace out I took the opportunity to change the steering wheel boss for one which allowed a centre cap to be fitted, meaning I no longer had to stare at the retaining nut on the end of the column which I had previously soaked in WD40 in an attempt to loosen it. Clearly the centre cap was designed to function as a horn button, but a previous owner / restorer has seen fit to install a big green button below the dash for the horn. No, I don't know why either.
So, other than a set of centre caps (on order) the 6 is looking quite spiffing.
Playing around on t'internet showed me that 5mm spacers were available, from unknown sources on eBay or from Rimmer Bros Triumph Specialists - expensive but likely to supply something of a decent quality and known to fit. Duly ordered, I sat back and marvelled at my engineering abilities over a glass of wine.
Later that evening I received an email from Rimmers confirming despatch of my order, which seemed impressive. When they arrived next morning I was frankly gobsmacked, but had them fitted by lunchtime and they appear to provide just enough clearance to make for quiet running. I'm a little unsure of one bolt on each hub, which seemed not to nip up as convincingly as the others, and I don't want to strip threads or anything, so I'll take Just Tyres up on their offer to check torques after 30 miles or so.
While I had the extended wheelbrace out I took the opportunity to change the steering wheel boss for one which allowed a centre cap to be fitted, meaning I no longer had to stare at the retaining nut on the end of the column which I had previously soaked in WD40 in an attempt to loosen it. Clearly the centre cap was designed to function as a horn button, but a previous owner / restorer has seen fit to install a big green button below the dash for the horn. No, I don't know why either.
So, other than a set of centre caps (on order) the 6 is looking quite spiffing.
The horn earths out through the steering column, which means that it's quite easy to get a difficult-to-trace short, and your horn sounds every time you turn right (or maybe left). I reckon someone has had this annoying problem hence the green button. Although it's actually quite easy to fix properly.
Turbobanana said:
So to draw an end to this phase of the 6's improvements, I gingerly drove home from the tyre fitters on Friday evening with the car sounding literally like a steam engine: a rhythmic chuffing on the straights, louder and more of a squeal on roundabouts and almost disappearing on left turns (of which there are never enough, if that's the only time your car is quiet).
Playing around on t'internet showed me that 5mm spacers were available, from unknown sources on eBay or from Rimmer Bros Triumph Specialists - expensive but likely to supply something of a decent quality and known to fit. Duly ordered, I sat back and marvelled at my engineering abilities over a glass of wine.
Later that evening I received an email from Rimmers confirming despatch of my order, which seemed impressive. When they arrived next morning I was frankly gobsmacked, but had them fitted by lunchtime and they appear to provide just enough clearance to make for quiet running. I'm a little unsure of one bolt on each hub, which seemed not to nip up as convincingly as the others, and I don't want to strip threads or anything, so I'll take Just Tyres up on their offer to check torques after 30 miles or so.
While I had the extended wheelbrace out I took the opportunity to change the steering wheel boss for one which allowed a centre cap to be fitted, meaning I no longer had to stare at the retaining nut on the end of the column which I had previously soaked in WD40 in an attempt to loosen it. Clearly the centre cap was designed to function as a horn button, but a previous owner / restorer has seen fit to install a big green button below the dash for the horn. No, I don't know why either.
So, other than a set of centre caps (on order) the 6 is looking quite spiffing.
Ask Just Tyres to double check your stud lengths while you are in there - worth changing them if JT feel they are a tad short, rather than risk a wheel coming off at speed.Playing around on t'internet showed me that 5mm spacers were available, from unknown sources on eBay or from Rimmer Bros Triumph Specialists - expensive but likely to supply something of a decent quality and known to fit. Duly ordered, I sat back and marvelled at my engineering abilities over a glass of wine.
Later that evening I received an email from Rimmers confirming despatch of my order, which seemed impressive. When they arrived next morning I was frankly gobsmacked, but had them fitted by lunchtime and they appear to provide just enough clearance to make for quiet running. I'm a little unsure of one bolt on each hub, which seemed not to nip up as convincingly as the others, and I don't want to strip threads or anything, so I'll take Just Tyres up on their offer to check torques after 30 miles or so.
While I had the extended wheelbrace out I took the opportunity to change the steering wheel boss for one which allowed a centre cap to be fitted, meaning I no longer had to stare at the retaining nut on the end of the column which I had previously soaked in WD40 in an attempt to loosen it. Clearly the centre cap was designed to function as a horn button, but a previous owner / restorer has seen fit to install a big green button below the dash for the horn. No, I don't know why either.
So, other than a set of centre caps (on order) the 6 is looking quite spiffing.
Oldwolf said:
If that's the end of this phase of improvements..... What is planned for the next phase?
Enjoying the journey on this
Thanks Oldwolf.Enjoying the journey on this
Next is to get the overdrive re-wired (no, I still haven't done that) and at the same time fit the shiny new plastic transmission tunnel I bought. I've also just scored a NOS overdrive gearknob in the original black, not milled aluminium like the new ones are. This and the locknut I also sourced should mean the overdrive can be wired correctly and retain the lever-mounted switch rather than resort to another green button on the dash.
Once that's done I suspect the driver's door window will be next: it currently works a bit like one of those old train carriage windows, where you pull it up / push it down manually. But at least it keeps the rain out. There is an issue with the door handle at the moment though, whereby it locks as soon as you close it and only opens when the key is turned - so I have to make sure I bring the key out with me. Ask me how I found that out.
Final thing - and this is weird: there are no ducts connecting the blower motor to the vents, screen or dash. Demisting in cold weather is therefore something of an issue. I assume these got lost in the "restoration". The ducts fetch eye-watering amounts on eBay and it's quite tricky to measure the required diameter due to access, otherwise I'd pop over to B&Q and try to match them up, but I have a set from a TR6 which I hope I may be able to adapt. There are ducts from the matrix to the screen demisters, then a Y-shaped split with ducts to the dash eyeballs and other vents for the footwells. I'm not fussed about the footwells but it would be nice to get the demisters and dash eyeballs working.
I'm away for a couple of weekends so may not post too much for a while. Unless the sun shines and there's no salt on the roads and...
This place may be able to supply some ducting that may do the job unless it's a weird shape
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/
rovermorris999 said:
This place may be able to supply some ducting that may do the job unless it's a weird shape
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/
Thanks 999,useful site. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/
rovermorris999 said:
This place may be able to supply some ducting that may do the job unless it's a weird shape
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/
They are a slightly odd (vs after market parts) shape but the main issue is size. The shape is more like a fake twin exhaust pipe tip - one inlet and a pair of outlets basically parallel to one another and on the same line as the inlet. Y piece O/D (so flexible pipe I/D) though is 1 25/32" (1.79"/45.5mm).https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/
When retro-fitting eyeball vents to my Spitfire I ended up using plumbing PVC 45°, 40mm welded branch pieces. The O/D of the steped ends is a little too large for the flexible ducting hoze but there's plenty of material there so some sanding got it down to a sitable diameter - and for about £3 rather than what the GT6 pipes go for (if you can find them).
//j17 said:
They are a slightly odd (vs after market parts) shape but the main issue is size. The shape is more like a fake twin exhaust pipe tip - one inlet and a pair of outlets basically parallel to one another and on the same line as the inlet. Y piece O/D (so flexible pipe I/D) though is 1 25/32" (1.79"/45.5mm).
When retro-fitting eyeball vents to my Spitfire I ended up using plumbing PVC 45°, 40mm welded branch pieces. The O/D of the steped ends is a little too large for the flexible ducting hoze but there's plenty of material there so some sanding got it down to a sitable diameter - and for about £3 rather than what the GT6 pipes go for (if you can find them).
Cheers 17. Interestingly I had a go at measuring ID with a cheap micrometer thingy I found by accident in Lidl. Obviously stuck underneath a dashboard is not the best place to try measuring something where you need to ensure you've traversed the diameter precisely across the centre of the circle, but even so I got it to 45mm so I wasn't far out!When retro-fitting eyeball vents to my Spitfire I ended up using plumbing PVC 45°, 40mm welded branch pieces. The O/D of the steped ends is a little too large for the flexible ducting hoze but there's plenty of material there so some sanding got it down to a sitable diameter - and for about £3 rather than what the GT6 pipes go for (if you can find them).
You're right about the costs / availability of anything with "GT6" in its description, though. Get creative and look for Spitfire, Herald / Vitesse, TRx or Stag though and some usable bits can be found.
Turbobanana said:
You're right about the costs / availability of anything with "GT6" in its description, though. Get creative and look for Spitfire, Herald / Vitesse, TRx or Stag though and some usable bits can be found.
Sadly think it was only the '6 that had these. One of the TRs might have had them too - but those would have TR-tax on them so cost more than GT6 ones!//j17 said:
Turbobanana said:
You're right about the costs / availability of anything with "GT6" in its description, though. Get creative and look for Spitfire, Herald / Vitesse, TRx or Stag though and some usable bits can be found.
Sadly think it was only the '6 that had these. One of the TRs might have had them too - but those would have TR-tax on them so cost more than GT6 ones!I may wait until I remove the dash for re-veneering, though.
Because I'm a bit bored I just searched out the hose part numbers on the Moss website and on a Spitfire up to 1976 the demister hose (from heater unit to screen vent) is the same part number 602638 as a TR6. Back order at Moss but £9.24 each from Revington TR. You'll also need the wire clips £1.74 x 4. I guess you'll need similar for the eyeball vents but I can't find a reference for those.
Suggest you recheck those part numbers but I've paid a lot more than that in the past.
Suggest you recheck those part numbers but I've paid a lot more than that in the past.
Yertis said:
Because I'm a bit bored I just searched out the hose part numbers on the Moss website and on a Spitfire up to 1976 the demister hose (from heater unit to screen vent) is the same part number 602638 as a TR6. Back order at Moss but £9.24 each from Revington TR. You'll also need the wire clips £1.74 x 4. I guess you'll need similar for the eyeball vents but I can't find a reference for those.
Suggest you recheck those part numbers but I've paid a lot more than that in the past.
Thank you for being a bit bored Yertis Suggest you recheck those part numbers but I've paid a lot more than that in the past.
Bloody hell, how did it become June already?
Stalwart readers of this thread will have noted the radio silence since I had the nasty slot mag wheels replaced by nice period Cosmic alloys. This was caused by a combination of misery inducers, which can be summarised into two categories as follows:
Car stuff
- Horrid scraping sound as the nearside rear alloy caught on the bottom suspension joint
- Non-working overdrive
- Driver's door window come off its regulator and door lock inoperable on driver's door
Other stuff
- A busy period at work
- Family commitments, including time away
- The pressing need to show some progress in my postgraduate research
The "other stuff" category has largely worked its way through the system but I'd been nagging myself to sort the Car stuff. Recognising that I'd run out of talent (not hard), I began searching round for someone local who could take on these seemingly small jobs. Long story short: most businesses specialising in classic cars seem only to be interested in tackling full restorations, not small jobs. Either that, or they don't respond to enquiries at all. I won't name and shame, but 3 days before I was due to go away I got a WhatsApp from Alex and AD Restorations in Stoke Hammond, conveniently close to home. Due (I believe) to a cancellation, he had some workshop space on Tuesday and did I want it?
The 6 was duly driven for the first time in about 3 months, uneventfully as it turns out, to Alex's workshop in some old RAF buildings. The grinding noise was still present and the lack of overdrive meant it was screaming even at modest dual carriageway speeds, but it drove OK. Problem explained, lightning quick tour of the workshop and Mrs Banana drives me to work.
Alex systematically worked his way through the jobs and soon had the rear suspension sorted. The previous owner had seeming packed the suspension with bushes and washers it didn't need, presumably in a vain attempt to fill the rear arches a bit, so once these were removed all was well - it doesn't even need the 5mm spacers I put on. New studs were required, as one had stretched.
The overdrive caused a few headaches. Alex has his own GT6 of a similar vintage to mine, so was able to compare the wiring. Another long story short: he ended up completely rewiring the overdrive from the fuse box back, in line with that on his own car (which worked fine). The NOS gear knob and overdrive switch I supplied were fitted, along with a plastic transmission tunnel to replace the paper one that Triumph saw fit to issue the car with, and all was reassembled and tested.
Finally Alex fettled the window mechanism so I now have a reliably-winding window, which makes accessing the work car park so much easier.
I collected the car on Friday afternoon and enjoyed the drive home at about 500rpm less than was previously the case - bliss! A long weekend away camping meant it sat unused until this morning, but I drove it to work and all seems well.
I still haven't had a chance to sort out dashboard air vents (sorry Yertis!), but that's on the - now significantly shorter - to do list. I've also acquired, through the magic of eBay, a dual action orbital polisher as I fancy a go at machine polishing the paintwork, which is a bit rough in places. Aside from hoovering out the remains of the decomposing seat foam, I've done no cleaning whatsoever since I bought the 6 so a proper cleaning session is on the cards.
The slot mags went on eBay and sold to a lovely chap who intends to fit them onto his Morris Ital pickup - I've asked for pictures once this is done.
With any luck I now have a car I can use a bit over summer.
Onward...
Stalwart readers of this thread will have noted the radio silence since I had the nasty slot mag wheels replaced by nice period Cosmic alloys. This was caused by a combination of misery inducers, which can be summarised into two categories as follows:
Car stuff
- Horrid scraping sound as the nearside rear alloy caught on the bottom suspension joint
- Non-working overdrive
- Driver's door window come off its regulator and door lock inoperable on driver's door
Other stuff
- A busy period at work
- Family commitments, including time away
- The pressing need to show some progress in my postgraduate research
The "other stuff" category has largely worked its way through the system but I'd been nagging myself to sort the Car stuff. Recognising that I'd run out of talent (not hard), I began searching round for someone local who could take on these seemingly small jobs. Long story short: most businesses specialising in classic cars seem only to be interested in tackling full restorations, not small jobs. Either that, or they don't respond to enquiries at all. I won't name and shame, but 3 days before I was due to go away I got a WhatsApp from Alex and AD Restorations in Stoke Hammond, conveniently close to home. Due (I believe) to a cancellation, he had some workshop space on Tuesday and did I want it?
The 6 was duly driven for the first time in about 3 months, uneventfully as it turns out, to Alex's workshop in some old RAF buildings. The grinding noise was still present and the lack of overdrive meant it was screaming even at modest dual carriageway speeds, but it drove OK. Problem explained, lightning quick tour of the workshop and Mrs Banana drives me to work.
Alex systematically worked his way through the jobs and soon had the rear suspension sorted. The previous owner had seeming packed the suspension with bushes and washers it didn't need, presumably in a vain attempt to fill the rear arches a bit, so once these were removed all was well - it doesn't even need the 5mm spacers I put on. New studs were required, as one had stretched.
The overdrive caused a few headaches. Alex has his own GT6 of a similar vintage to mine, so was able to compare the wiring. Another long story short: he ended up completely rewiring the overdrive from the fuse box back, in line with that on his own car (which worked fine). The NOS gear knob and overdrive switch I supplied were fitted, along with a plastic transmission tunnel to replace the paper one that Triumph saw fit to issue the car with, and all was reassembled and tested.
Finally Alex fettled the window mechanism so I now have a reliably-winding window, which makes accessing the work car park so much easier.
I collected the car on Friday afternoon and enjoyed the drive home at about 500rpm less than was previously the case - bliss! A long weekend away camping meant it sat unused until this morning, but I drove it to work and all seems well.
I still haven't had a chance to sort out dashboard air vents (sorry Yertis!), but that's on the - now significantly shorter - to do list. I've also acquired, through the magic of eBay, a dual action orbital polisher as I fancy a go at machine polishing the paintwork, which is a bit rough in places. Aside from hoovering out the remains of the decomposing seat foam, I've done no cleaning whatsoever since I bought the 6 so a proper cleaning session is on the cards.
The slot mags went on eBay and sold to a lovely chap who intends to fit them onto his Morris Ital pickup - I've asked for pictures once this is done.
With any luck I now have a car I can use a bit over summer.
Onward...
Quick update, (almost*) exclusively good news.
Since the 6 was fixed, I've been pressing it into service more frequently, relatively safe in the knowledge that nothing's about to fall off and luxuriating in the newfound serenity of overdriven third and fourth gears.
A volunteering day through work yesterday saw the 6 and I heading to Stoke Bruerne to help the Canal & River Trust maintain their estate. This involved about a 20 minute drive to site, a task I felt the 6 would relish. I was right: the 6 lapped it up, cruising comfortably on country roads and even a bit of A5 without holding up any traffic. Truth is, I'm not convinced the speedo is reading right. It was showing 55-60mph at 2,500rpm in overdrive top: any advice as to whether that sounds right or wrong would be appreciated.
As fate would have it, I was required to give a lift to a young millennial colleague. I don't think there's many of us whose ego wouldn't be massaged by the presence in the passenger seat of an attractive young lady, but Elspeth is a townie who doesn't even drive and admits to no knowledge of cars whatsoever. She was fascinated by the 6, however, and concluded that it would be "an ideal car to learn to drive in" and that "I'm not into cars, but I can see that this is something special". She admired the simplicity of it, avoided asking any daft questions like "where's the aircon?" and I let her play with my knob. Stop sniggering at the back - the one that operates the overdrive, of course
Gratuitous pic in the morning sunshine:
(*Oh yes, the driver's door window regulator is broken again).
Since the 6 was fixed, I've been pressing it into service more frequently, relatively safe in the knowledge that nothing's about to fall off and luxuriating in the newfound serenity of overdriven third and fourth gears.
A volunteering day through work yesterday saw the 6 and I heading to Stoke Bruerne to help the Canal & River Trust maintain their estate. This involved about a 20 minute drive to site, a task I felt the 6 would relish. I was right: the 6 lapped it up, cruising comfortably on country roads and even a bit of A5 without holding up any traffic. Truth is, I'm not convinced the speedo is reading right. It was showing 55-60mph at 2,500rpm in overdrive top: any advice as to whether that sounds right or wrong would be appreciated.
As fate would have it, I was required to give a lift to a young millennial colleague. I don't think there's many of us whose ego wouldn't be massaged by the presence in the passenger seat of an attractive young lady, but Elspeth is a townie who doesn't even drive and admits to no knowledge of cars whatsoever. She was fascinated by the 6, however, and concluded that it would be "an ideal car to learn to drive in" and that "I'm not into cars, but I can see that this is something special". She admired the simplicity of it, avoided asking any daft questions like "where's the aircon?" and I let her play with my knob. Stop sniggering at the back - the one that operates the overdrive, of course
Gratuitous pic in the morning sunshine:
(*Oh yes, the driver's door window regulator is broken again).
There might be a significance re the speedo, presumably reading low?
Just after I got my TVR I decided to take it to Wavendon for a jazz concert, which was being given by a friend's son, and I took said friend with me.
On the way down the A421 we were chatting away and toddling at what the speedo said was 45 mph but felt a bit quicker, when a Ferrari came past at a fair lick. Naturally I responded and let all 8 cylinders show what tthey could do. Some spirited gear changing later we caught Maranello's finest, and I glanced down to see that we were doing 55 mph now. Were we hell!. I had 4500 rpm in 5th gear on the dash, which I later realised was somewhat quicker than 55 mph.
After the concert I went to start the car and had a pancake flat battery. Bump started it down the hill, but I only managed about 5 miles before the car expired in a layby. Pistonheads diagnosed it for me during the two hours I waited for the RAC - broken 100 amp fuse was the most popular of the 13 different answers I received on my iPhone. The 100amp fuse protects the electrics from being fried by a malfunctioning alternator, but it is fails then you are running on battery until the electrons run out.
Just after I got my TVR I decided to take it to Wavendon for a jazz concert, which was being given by a friend's son, and I took said friend with me.
On the way down the A421 we were chatting away and toddling at what the speedo said was 45 mph but felt a bit quicker, when a Ferrari came past at a fair lick. Naturally I responded and let all 8 cylinders show what tthey could do. Some spirited gear changing later we caught Maranello's finest, and I glanced down to see that we were doing 55 mph now. Were we hell!. I had 4500 rpm in 5th gear on the dash, which I later realised was somewhat quicker than 55 mph.
After the concert I went to start the car and had a pancake flat battery. Bump started it down the hill, but I only managed about 5 miles before the car expired in a layby. Pistonheads diagnosed it for me during the two hours I waited for the RAC - broken 100 amp fuse was the most popular of the 13 different answers I received on my iPhone. The 100amp fuse protects the electrics from being fried by a malfunctioning alternator, but it is fails then you are running on battery until the electrons run out.
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