Are cars less characterful than they used to be?

[Turbobanana]

So this morning I took a deep breath and removed the transmission tunnel: why would anyone make that out of paper?

Anyhoo, the gearbox was clearly thirsty as it needed half a litre of fluid , so that was one of the boxes ticked on the "overdrive not working - things to check" list. Although I could see and touch the solenoid, I wasn't able to remove it so I took a chance it was OK. Reattach the rubber seals and refit the tunnel ( this time paying a bit more attention to fitting the trim correctly) and it's all back together.

Fit the newly-arrived engine valences and so to lunch.

Latee I had a look at the driver's window but there's no way to refit the glass into its carrier so I'll need to replace the regulator I reckon. At least the glass doesn't rattle now.

Off for a test drive. Still no overdrive and it's blowing the fuse again - a backwards step.

It's beaten me - I'm taking it to someone who knows what they're doing and has more patience than me.

Bugger.

[rovermorris999]

If it's blowing the fuse there is likely a short to earth somewhere. Could be internal to the solenoid, the switch or wiring between the two. A short while with a multimeter checking continuity might pay dividends.

[Turbobanana]

rovermorris999 said:

If it's blowing the fuse there is likely a short to earth somewhere. Could be internal to the solenoid, the switch or wiring between the two. A short while with a multimeter checking continuity might pay dividends.

Thanks rovermorris. I already replaced the wiring up the gear lever to the switch (fiddly) but think I may have disturbed it again yesterday.

As long as I don't use the OD I can still drive it, which is what I need for now. Hopefully Mrs Banana's Ford Fiasco will be back in a week or so, then I can get the 6 booked in for someone with the requisite skills to look at it.

[a8hex]

For a the XK150S OTS there was an option to have a second gear lever rather than the electrical drive to the OD, I wonder whether anyone ever tried this with any other cars with the Laycock de Normanville unit.

[P5BNij]

Looking through one of my books over a morning cuppa I noticed the GT6 is barely two foot longer than a Mini, I was quite surprised by this! I'm now being drawn into the world of GT6s, Spitfires, TR4s and 5s, Austin Healeys, Frogeye Sprites, MGAs, Bs and Cs etc. It's a good job I've run out of space....

[Yertis]

Turbobanana said:

rovermorris999 said:

If it's blowing the fuse there is likely a short to earth somewhere. Could be internal to the solenoid, the switch or wiring between the two. A short while with a multimeter checking continuity might pay dividends.

Thanks rovermorris. I already replaced the wiring up the gear lever to the switch (fiddly) but think I may have disturbed it again yesterday.

As long as I don't use the OD I can still drive it, which is what I need for now. Hopefully Mrs Banana's Ford Fiasco will be back in a week or so, then I can get the 6 booked in for someone with the requisite skills to look at it.

TB, have you rewired up through the gear lever to the switch? There’s a hole in the bottom of the lever into which the wiring from the relay disappears - mine chafed through here causing the overdrive to engage/disengage at random. I’d check the solenoid by taking a feed directly to the positive terminal on the relay - if it operates it’s the wiring. If not, it’s the solenoid. But it sounds like a short. I wonder if a PO has been dicking about with the wiring?

Unless you have an old classic specialist handy I’d persevere. The wiring on these is simple as -
download a GT6 wiring diagram and off you go.

[Turbobanana]

Yertis said:

TB, have you rewired up through the gear lever to the switch? There’s a hole in the bottom of the lever into which the wiring from the relay disappears - mine chafed through here causing the overdrive to engage/disengage at random. I’d check the solenoid by taking a feed directly to the positive terminal on the relay - if it operates it’s the wiring. If not, it’s the solenoid. But it sounds like a short. I wonder if a PO has been dicking about with the wiring?

Unless you have an old classic specialist handy I’d persevere. The wiring on these is simple as -
download a GT6 wiring diagram and off you go.

Thanks Yertis. I have rewired already, but the design is pants and it's so fiddly I may have undone all my previous work. Somewhere up there ^^^ I had the old electric shock every time I engaged the OD, which prompted the rewire. I love the lever-mounted switch but I may have to go with a separate, dash-mounted one like an MGB. I agree the wiring is simple: it's the whole transmission tunnel shenanigans that puts me off tackling it again, at least until I get a fibreglass / plastic replacement. With a hatch cut in for oil top ups. And proper seals / soundproofing.

Still, another week of school runs and commuting beckons, so at least it's getting used.

Onward...

[Turbobanana]

The 6 and I are turning into some twisted comedy duo.

After last weekend's attempt to remedy the non-functioning overdrive, I admitted defeat after a short test drive revealed that I had not been successful. I wasn't surprised, as my mechanical skills are rubbish. The most disappointing thing was that attempting to engage the OD blew the fuse again. Oh well, thought I, stick a new fuse in and don't use the OD.

Fortunately Mrs Banana and I managed to car share this week so the 6 had a few days off. This morning I used it for the commute and, upon starting, did a quick cockpit check to ensure the fuel and temperature gauges were registering (the most visible sign that the fuse is OK). All good - off I go, with one eye on the gauges (I'm an avid gauge watcher anyway).

Within a mile, and I'm certain without needing to use indicators, lights, wipers or OD*, the gauges are at rest. Bugger. Could it be that the wiring for the OD is somehow shorting and causing the fuse to blow? Or is it a dodgy earth somewhere in the circuit? I have noticed that (when functioning) the left indicator flashes more slowly than the right, so I suspect a new flasher unit may be on the cards in any event.

Oh, and it doesn't quite fit under the car park barrier. Ask me how I know...

*ETA I think the only other item on that circuit is brake lights, which I would have used.

Edited by Turbobanana on Friday 23 September 11:18

[rovermorris999]

It certainly looks like a short to earth somewhere. Have a look at a wiring diagram (usually in a Haynes manual) and what goes through that fuse. It needn't be something you used, if a live feed to anything going through the fuse is intermittently touching earth that will do it. I'm afraid there's nothing for it but to have a look at the loom everywhere you can to see if it's chafing anywhere and then try and trace it with a meter. If it's intermittent it'll be a pain, time consuming and fiddley but not too technically difficult. An auto electrician could do it if you can find one willing but it could cost several hours labour.
The indicator issue is probably just the slow bulb not earthing well, I would have thought if it was the flasher unit both would be slow.
Electrical issues are a pain but thankfully cars of this age are very simple.

[niva441]

I managed to initiate requiring a complete overdrive rewiring by over-zealously pushing a male bullet connector into the housing. Not realising that the opposite side of the connector was also a male connector. So in pushing one side in, I was pushing the other side out, creating a short.

[Turbobanana]

rovermorris999 said:

It certainly looks like a short to earth somewhere. Have a look at a wiring diagram (usually in a Haynes manual) and what goes through that fuse. It needn't be something you used, if a live feed to anything going through the fuse is intermittently touching earth that will do it. I'm afraid there's nothing for it but to have a look at the loom everywhere you can to see if it's chafing anywhere and then try and trace it with a meter. If it's intermittent it'll be a pain, time consuming and fiddley but not too technically difficult. An auto electrician could do it if you can find one willing but it could cost several hours labour.
The indicator issue is probably just the slow bulb not earthing well, I would have thought if it was the flasher unit both would be slow.
Electrical issues are a pain but thankfully cars of this age are very simple.

Thanks rovermorris, as ever some encouraging words make a huge difference. I'm absolutely convinced it's something simple.

[Turbobanana]

niva441 said:

I managed to initiate requiring a complete overdrive rewiring by over-zealously pushing a male bullet connector into the housing. Not realising that the opposite side of the connector was also a male connector. So in pushing one side in, I was pushing the other side out, creating a short.

Have we met? Sounds like something I'd do / have already done...

[Brett748]

Absolutely. They are heavier, have exhausts full of emissions control (not a bad thing per se) so sound worse and they commonly aren't full ICE.

Objectively cars now are better than ever for the average consumer but for the petrol head there is something missing.

[niva441]

Turbobanana said:

niva441 said:

I managed to initiate requiring a complete overdrive rewiring by over-zealously pushing a male bullet connector into the housing. Not realising that the opposite side of the connector was also a male connector. So in pushing one side in, I was pushing the other side out, creating a short.

Have we met? Sounds like something I'd do / have already done...

Quite possibly, I do have a problem making absolutely sure that attachments can never come apart. The torque wrench is probably the best investment I've ever made.

I missed out one important detail, this was on a late MGB, not sure if the Triumph uses the same kind of connector.

[QBee]

I have never used a torque wrench for electrical connections - perhaps that's where I am going wrong?

[niva441]

No I need to find an equivalent for electrical fittings - just as well I've only worked on 12v (so far).

[Yertis]

The equivalent is probably using proper crimping tools with original spec spade connectors and sleeves. Not those horrible blue plastic Halfords things. I hate seeing those.

[Yertis]

How’s the GT6 fault-rectification going TB?

[Turbobanana]

Yertis said:

How’s the GT6 fault-rectification going TB?

Glad you asked...

For logistical reasons the 6 has still been in occasional use for commuting, despite not being able to go a mile from home without blowing a fuse and hence running the gauntlet of getting a tug from the BIB. Mrs Banana's Ford Fiasco is still on loan to friends, which is preventing my getting the 6 looked at properly. I have been put in touch with a friend of a friend who fettles old crocks, so help is (sort of) at hand.

Meantime, I have been busy replacing the knackered vinyl seats with a set rebuilt using new foams but original cloth covers. This is generally regarded as an upgrade because the vinyl was rubbish. These should be warmer in winter / cooler in summer and certainly won't leave decaying foam on my trousers every time I sit in it. They are somewhat more comfortable. My only gripe is that they are dark blue, but against the Wedgwood Blue paint I think it works. In a break from the norm, here's a pic:



I have also fitted a front spoiler from a Spitfire. I reckon these finish the front perfectly, but I had to think about number plate placement because I wanted to keep the fluted black / silver plate rather than revert to a sticky one. Another pic, woo-hoo:



Meanwhile, anybody want to buy some knackered seats? Ebay beckons...



Random picture of a pygmy hippo:



Onward...

Edited by Turbobanana on Monday 10th October 10:04

[Touring442]

Reginald Perrin's mother in law. ^^

I would start from scratch and make up a new wiring loom for the OD, separate to everything else with inline fuses.