RE: bert's Lotus elise MkII
Discussion
Hi,
I am thinking of buying a second hand elise and woundered if you had driven or know someone with a 98-99 elise, and what thats like to owen.........?
I could still be after a new one if I think its worth the extra dosh!
What are the problems I should look out for on an elise?
Hope you can help
speed.demon (Mark)
I am thinking of buying a second hand elise and woundered if you had driven or know someone with a 98-99 elise, and what thats like to owen.........?
I could still be after a new one if I think its worth the extra dosh!
What are the problems I should look out for on an elise?
Hope you can help
speed.demon (Mark)
Mark,
Coicidentally, this got posted on the Lotus BBS in response to a similar question. It's not my work so I don't claim any credit for the content - and I don't know who the author is so I can't give the credit it is due.
HTH,
David L.
===========
In the older cars look for suspension knocking. The Koni dampers are
not the best and go off after < 20k's in many cases. It would be
worth getting the suspension geo looked at on an older car as well as
you might not know the history. The Elise is all about how it is
setup and the difference between a well setup Elise and a badly setup
one is quite marked.
The steering rack is also a common weak point. The gators can split
after only a few thousand miles in some cases which eventually leads
to wear in the rack causing a lot of play in the steering. Even
slight steering play in the Elise is quite noticeable.
Older cars may also have the infamous red clutch hose too. In very
hot weather the plastic clutch hose can expand slightly making gear
changes difficult or even impossible. Lotus later fixed this by
fitting a braided hose. This was also a fault in the Esprit too IIRC.
There was a recall on the steering arms in older cars (pre 98 S regs
I think) The steering arms were bending if subjected to enough force
mostly through hammering the kerbs on track days.
The window winder mechanism is quite frankly sh*te and failure is
very common. It's also expensive to have fixed by a Lotus dealer but
not so difficult that you can't have a go yourself. Still cost me £95
ex vat for the bits though.
The throttle can appear to stick slightly open between 2000-3000rpm
Various reasons for this but the most common is either gunk build up
in the butterfly making it "stick". The throttle body can also become
slightly distorted if the clip that holds the induction pipe on has
been replaced with a jubiliee clip that has been overtightened. This
is common if people have fitted a cone air filter. Robin also
believes that some problems are related to the MEMS engine ECU rather
than mechnical throttle body type problems. Although the MEMS ECU is
expensive to replace failure is very rare.
I've read of a few failures of the Stack instrument unit. They are
quite expensive to replace too but again I think failure is fairly
rare.
General cooling problems are quite common. Caused by anything from
faulty header tank caps, air in the system, holes in the radiator,
fans not working, temp senders not working, head gasket problems etc.
It's not the most reliable car in the World but given the level of
abuse they generally enjoy then it doesn't too badly. A lot of the
problems are not generally the stranded at the side of road kind
either. There are loads of people who use their Elise day in day out
with few problems.
Not sure where you live but there are a few Lotus specialist
engineering firms that might not be Lotus authorised dealers but
offer an excellent service at realistic prices. You can also get
replacement parts from the ever increasing places that have "Elise's
breaking for spares" so you don't have to pay top whack for genuine
Lotus parts plus there is a very healthy after market business in
Elise bits.
From Evo magazine:
Checkpoints
History is vital for Elises, but in this instance we are not referring simply to the servicing details. The little Lotus makes an ideal track-day steed, and while the odd
track day does the car no harm (it was, after all, made for this), it does require more scrupulous maintenance - and you need to know that this has been done. Don't
worry about the specific mileage but concentrate on condition, the way it drives, and try to uncover as much as you can about its past. Remember that the Elise is in
many ways more race than road car and correspondingly needs a little TLC, particularly if used every day. Just washing the bodywork isn't quite enough.
Engines
The 1.8 Rover K-series lump is a very well tested unit and in standard 118bhp form is hardly stretched. However, you need to pay close attention to the coolant
level as the jubilee clips on the radiator hoses can work loose and leak. The engine has very little water in it so overheating can very easily prove terminal. (If it does
start to overheat, stop. Don't try and limp home.)
Check for misfires, or signs of smoke from the exhaust. You probably don't need us to tell you to go and look elsewhere if you find a car with either problem, but
the likely cause is either the plastic intake manifolds leaking coolant from the o-rings (particularly on the newer cars), or cracked cylinders liners caused by sustained
periods of over-rewing.
The flat underside has a removable engine tray and this should be examined for damage and to ensure that the retaining bolts are secure and it good condition.
The fuel injection pump fuse is rated to only 10 amps on the older cars, 20A on post-'98, and has been known to blow, stranding the driver, so carry a spare. The
cam- belt life stands at 54,000 miles or six years, but if the car has regular track outings a wise man would change it before that point - just compare the cost with
the price of a rebuild.
Transmission
Too many 0-60mph sprints will loosen the system, but on the whole its robust. The cable-operated gearshift isn't the best, but if it feels particularly loose it probably
means that the cables need tightening or at worse replacing, neither of which will trouble your bank manager. Early Elises had problems in hot weather with the
hydraulic hose to the clutch becoming soft and not actuating the mechanism. The hoses are now braided on new cars and a steel one can be intro-fitted.
Brakes
Early cars had aluminium discs, which worked well and reduced the unsprung weight. Unfortunately Lotus had a lot of problems finding a supplier who was able
consistently to provide the required quality and had to revert to more regular vented steel discs. The good news, though, is that as these discs have a relatively small
amount of mass to arrest they last very well indeed. Pads will need to be replaced every 20,000 miles or so for a road car, but this drops to as little as 5000 for a
track-day regular. If they squeal, it's because you haven't managed to get enough heat into them, so either give them a thorough workout once in a while or fit an
anti-squeal pad back-plate.
Lotus dealers. Don't fit racing-spec pads to aluminium discs because the heat they generate can literally cause the discs to melt. The range of upgrade kits available
for the brakes is vast, so you should be able to find a set-up that meets both your needs and budget. If you do find a car with the aluminium discs, note that they
need special care compared with their steel counterparts and should be properly cleaned at every service. This job doesn't appear on the service sheet. so either
ensure the garage does it, or do it yourself.
Suspension/steering
The suspension is worked hard and the correct set-up is vital for it to work properly, especially at the rear. A good car will feet great, but if the parts are worn it will
feel terrible and it doesn't take much. The rubber bushes wear quickly and loose outer-wishbone (top and bottom) ball-joints will cause the wheels to shake, badly
destabilising the handling, though it's very cheap to fix. The rear toe link also has a history of failing but, once again, they can be made good very cost effectively.
There was a bad batch of steering arms from 1999 that have worn their track rod ends very quickly. If you discover this has happened. it should be possible to have
it put right under warranty.
Bodywork/Interior
Any problems with the fit of the doors or the clamshell front and rear body sections should sound warning bells
Take a long hard look at panel gaps and the ensure the doors and the clamshells fit properly. Once you've done that, examine the aluminium chassis for any signs of
damage. Proper crash repairs are difficult because of the original bonding technique - often the chassis is scrapped. If anything strikes you as being not quite right,
walk away. Cheap Elises are seldom the bargain they first appear.
It may be Spartan inside, but if you like your car to look immaculate then you need to take care as the Elise can scuff up quite easily. More importantly the alloy
pedals can give cause for concern. If you feel them sticking or squealing you should spray their joints with a little WD40. Failure to do this can cause the pedal bush
(primarily on the throttle, and it's a more common fault with the later cars) to stick. It's an eight-hour job to sort out.
On the early cars the window winders can work loose so that the window falls out of alignment. This again is an awkward repair and therefore you should always
check the winders work smoothly and avoid any cars where you notice any signs of stubbornness, Spraying them with a silicon spray (regular furniture polish will do)
helps to prevent this.
Also on early cars you may find that the hood leaks through the front seals, caused by people holding the hood when climbing in and out, slowly ripping the seals. It
creates yet another time-consuming fix so remember to examine the leading edge when going over the car. Neither the boot nor bonnet release seem to work well,
but this can be eased simply by regularly greasing the cables. Failure to do this can cause them to snap. The streamlined headlamp covers may look smart, but
frequent misting problems have meant that they are no longer a factory fit item.
Exhaust
The sports exhaust is the most ordered part for the Elise and the vast majority of cars wear them. The standard item can show signs of rot on the tailpipe but
otherwise should be gremlin-free.
Electrical systems
All OK, but if you're using the car for track days. increase the size of the alternator pulley to prevent it failing.
Where to buy an Elise
Both the Internet and Top Marques magazine have dozens of Elises for sale, giving you a huge range of choice. If buying privately isn't your thing then don't worry,
the dealerships have plenty of trade-ins as well There's so much choice you can almost specify the exact car you want - from colour to engine spec - and find it
without too much bother,
Join the club
There are three clubs for Lotus cars: the Official Lotus Club, the Lotus Drivers' Club and Club Lotus, so there's plenty to keep you busy. The OLC is a
factory-supported club, whereas Club Lotus and the Drivers' Club are independent, but still professionally run. All offer magazines, insurance deals, events, etc.
Club Lotus 01362 694459
Lotus Drivers' Club 01727 838015
Official Lotus Club 0171 413 9316
Buyer's Bible (The Old Testament)
· Check service history, MOT, VS I DVLC certificate. VIN, and have a full HPI inspection. If you are not buying from a dealer, make sure you are buying the car
from the owner.
· View in daylight, and never in the rain. Take a torch to check for signs of crash damage.
· Irregular tyre wear may mean steering/suspension damage.
· Look for poorly matched paintwork. uneven shutlines and evidence of a respray.
· Check mileage matches wear on the seats, pedal rubbers and steering wheel Check coolant, oil and brake fluid levels - too low means neglect.
· Try all switches to check the electrical system is OK.
· Always test-drive the car from cold. Look for smoke on start-up.
lf you know a mechanic or specialist, take him/her along to view the car.
Coicidentally, this got posted on the Lotus BBS in response to a similar question. It's not my work so I don't claim any credit for the content - and I don't know who the author is so I can't give the credit it is due.
HTH,
David L.
===========
In the older cars look for suspension knocking. The Koni dampers are
not the best and go off after < 20k's in many cases. It would be
worth getting the suspension geo looked at on an older car as well as
you might not know the history. The Elise is all about how it is
setup and the difference between a well setup Elise and a badly setup
one is quite marked.
The steering rack is also a common weak point. The gators can split
after only a few thousand miles in some cases which eventually leads
to wear in the rack causing a lot of play in the steering. Even
slight steering play in the Elise is quite noticeable.
Older cars may also have the infamous red clutch hose too. In very
hot weather the plastic clutch hose can expand slightly making gear
changes difficult or even impossible. Lotus later fixed this by
fitting a braided hose. This was also a fault in the Esprit too IIRC.
There was a recall on the steering arms in older cars (pre 98 S regs
I think) The steering arms were bending if subjected to enough force
mostly through hammering the kerbs on track days.
The window winder mechanism is quite frankly sh*te and failure is
very common. It's also expensive to have fixed by a Lotus dealer but
not so difficult that you can't have a go yourself. Still cost me £95
ex vat for the bits though.
The throttle can appear to stick slightly open between 2000-3000rpm
Various reasons for this but the most common is either gunk build up
in the butterfly making it "stick". The throttle body can also become
slightly distorted if the clip that holds the induction pipe on has
been replaced with a jubiliee clip that has been overtightened. This
is common if people have fitted a cone air filter. Robin also
believes that some problems are related to the MEMS engine ECU rather
than mechnical throttle body type problems. Although the MEMS ECU is
expensive to replace failure is very rare.
I've read of a few failures of the Stack instrument unit. They are
quite expensive to replace too but again I think failure is fairly
rare.
General cooling problems are quite common. Caused by anything from
faulty header tank caps, air in the system, holes in the radiator,
fans not working, temp senders not working, head gasket problems etc.
It's not the most reliable car in the World but given the level of
abuse they generally enjoy then it doesn't too badly. A lot of the
problems are not generally the stranded at the side of road kind
either. There are loads of people who use their Elise day in day out
with few problems.
Not sure where you live but there are a few Lotus specialist
engineering firms that might not be Lotus authorised dealers but
offer an excellent service at realistic prices. You can also get
replacement parts from the ever increasing places that have "Elise's
breaking for spares" so you don't have to pay top whack for genuine
Lotus parts plus there is a very healthy after market business in
Elise bits.
From Evo magazine:
Checkpoints
History is vital for Elises, but in this instance we are not referring simply to the servicing details. The little Lotus makes an ideal track-day steed, and while the odd
track day does the car no harm (it was, after all, made for this), it does require more scrupulous maintenance - and you need to know that this has been done. Don't
worry about the specific mileage but concentrate on condition, the way it drives, and try to uncover as much as you can about its past. Remember that the Elise is in
many ways more race than road car and correspondingly needs a little TLC, particularly if used every day. Just washing the bodywork isn't quite enough.
Engines
The 1.8 Rover K-series lump is a very well tested unit and in standard 118bhp form is hardly stretched. However, you need to pay close attention to the coolant
level as the jubilee clips on the radiator hoses can work loose and leak. The engine has very little water in it so overheating can very easily prove terminal. (If it does
start to overheat, stop. Don't try and limp home.)
Check for misfires, or signs of smoke from the exhaust. You probably don't need us to tell you to go and look elsewhere if you find a car with either problem, but
the likely cause is either the plastic intake manifolds leaking coolant from the o-rings (particularly on the newer cars), or cracked cylinders liners caused by sustained
periods of over-rewing.
The flat underside has a removable engine tray and this should be examined for damage and to ensure that the retaining bolts are secure and it good condition.
The fuel injection pump fuse is rated to only 10 amps on the older cars, 20A on post-'98, and has been known to blow, stranding the driver, so carry a spare. The
cam- belt life stands at 54,000 miles or six years, but if the car has regular track outings a wise man would change it before that point - just compare the cost with
the price of a rebuild.
Transmission
Too many 0-60mph sprints will loosen the system, but on the whole its robust. The cable-operated gearshift isn't the best, but if it feels particularly loose it probably
means that the cables need tightening or at worse replacing, neither of which will trouble your bank manager. Early Elises had problems in hot weather with the
hydraulic hose to the clutch becoming soft and not actuating the mechanism. The hoses are now braided on new cars and a steel one can be intro-fitted.
Brakes
Early cars had aluminium discs, which worked well and reduced the unsprung weight. Unfortunately Lotus had a lot of problems finding a supplier who was able
consistently to provide the required quality and had to revert to more regular vented steel discs. The good news, though, is that as these discs have a relatively small
amount of mass to arrest they last very well indeed. Pads will need to be replaced every 20,000 miles or so for a road car, but this drops to as little as 5000 for a
track-day regular. If they squeal, it's because you haven't managed to get enough heat into them, so either give them a thorough workout once in a while or fit an
anti-squeal pad back-plate.
Lotus dealers. Don't fit racing-spec pads to aluminium discs because the heat they generate can literally cause the discs to melt. The range of upgrade kits available
for the brakes is vast, so you should be able to find a set-up that meets both your needs and budget. If you do find a car with the aluminium discs, note that they
need special care compared with their steel counterparts and should be properly cleaned at every service. This job doesn't appear on the service sheet. so either
ensure the garage does it, or do it yourself.
Suspension/steering
The suspension is worked hard and the correct set-up is vital for it to work properly, especially at the rear. A good car will feet great, but if the parts are worn it will
feel terrible and it doesn't take much. The rubber bushes wear quickly and loose outer-wishbone (top and bottom) ball-joints will cause the wheels to shake, badly
destabilising the handling, though it's very cheap to fix. The rear toe link also has a history of failing but, once again, they can be made good very cost effectively.
There was a bad batch of steering arms from 1999 that have worn their track rod ends very quickly. If you discover this has happened. it should be possible to have
it put right under warranty.
Bodywork/Interior
Any problems with the fit of the doors or the clamshell front and rear body sections should sound warning bells
Take a long hard look at panel gaps and the ensure the doors and the clamshells fit properly. Once you've done that, examine the aluminium chassis for any signs of
damage. Proper crash repairs are difficult because of the original bonding technique - often the chassis is scrapped. If anything strikes you as being not quite right,
walk away. Cheap Elises are seldom the bargain they first appear.
It may be Spartan inside, but if you like your car to look immaculate then you need to take care as the Elise can scuff up quite easily. More importantly the alloy
pedals can give cause for concern. If you feel them sticking or squealing you should spray their joints with a little WD40. Failure to do this can cause the pedal bush
(primarily on the throttle, and it's a more common fault with the later cars) to stick. It's an eight-hour job to sort out.
On the early cars the window winders can work loose so that the window falls out of alignment. This again is an awkward repair and therefore you should always
check the winders work smoothly and avoid any cars where you notice any signs of stubbornness, Spraying them with a silicon spray (regular furniture polish will do)
helps to prevent this.
Also on early cars you may find that the hood leaks through the front seals, caused by people holding the hood when climbing in and out, slowly ripping the seals. It
creates yet another time-consuming fix so remember to examine the leading edge when going over the car. Neither the boot nor bonnet release seem to work well,
but this can be eased simply by regularly greasing the cables. Failure to do this can cause them to snap. The streamlined headlamp covers may look smart, but
frequent misting problems have meant that they are no longer a factory fit item.
Exhaust
The sports exhaust is the most ordered part for the Elise and the vast majority of cars wear them. The standard item can show signs of rot on the tailpipe but
otherwise should be gremlin-free.
Electrical systems
All OK, but if you're using the car for track days. increase the size of the alternator pulley to prevent it failing.
Where to buy an Elise
Both the Internet and Top Marques magazine have dozens of Elises for sale, giving you a huge range of choice. If buying privately isn't your thing then don't worry,
the dealerships have plenty of trade-ins as well There's so much choice you can almost specify the exact car you want - from colour to engine spec - and find it
without too much bother,
Join the club
There are three clubs for Lotus cars: the Official Lotus Club, the Lotus Drivers' Club and Club Lotus, so there's plenty to keep you busy. The OLC is a
factory-supported club, whereas Club Lotus and the Drivers' Club are independent, but still professionally run. All offer magazines, insurance deals, events, etc.
Club Lotus 01362 694459
Lotus Drivers' Club 01727 838015
Official Lotus Club 0171 413 9316
Buyer's Bible (The Old Testament)
· Check service history, MOT, VS I DVLC certificate. VIN, and have a full HPI inspection. If you are not buying from a dealer, make sure you are buying the car
from the owner.
· View in daylight, and never in the rain. Take a torch to check for signs of crash damage.
· Irregular tyre wear may mean steering/suspension damage.
· Look for poorly matched paintwork. uneven shutlines and evidence of a respray.
· Check mileage matches wear on the seats, pedal rubbers and steering wheel Check coolant, oil and brake fluid levels - too low means neglect.
· Try all switches to check the electrical system is OK.
· Always test-drive the car from cold. Look for smoke on start-up.
lf you know a mechanic or specialist, take him/her along to view the car.
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