Replacement cills rusting already!
Discussion
If you had paid for the cills of a car to be replaced, as part of a wider underbody restoration or otherwise, how long would you expect it to be before the dreaded brown crustiness returned?
Need to drop the cill covers and explore more, however this is what it looks like 9 months in after its first winter.
Need to drop the cill covers and explore more, however this is what it looks like 9 months in after its first winter.
dhutch said:
If you had paid for the cills of a car to be replaced, as part of a wider underbody restoration or otherwise, how long would you expect it to be before the dreaded brown crustiness returned?
Need to drop the cill covers and explore more, however this is what it looks like 9 months in after its first winter.
Firstly, they are called sills.Need to drop the cill covers and explore more, however this is what it looks like 9 months in after its first winter.
Secondly, I wouldn't have paid for that work at all going by the poor quality of the finish around the wheel arch. Filler clearly visible under the paint and the overspray on the plastic liner shows the car was painted with it still attached or very poorly masked when it would have been more expedient to remove it, showing the sprayer was careless and a bit incompetent.
I hope those tack welds became seam welds after that picture was taken and I also hope that front wing was replaced and not repaired !
What you have there is some small areas of pitted rust that weren't prepped properly,they really need sand blasting back to clean steel to stop the rust reoccurring anytime soon
What you have there is some small areas of pitted rust that weren't prepped properly,they really need sand blasting back to clean steel to stop the rust reoccurring anytime soon
What did the bodyshop do with the parts I have circled in green? They are the areas that continue to rust on your original pictures. I suspect they rubbed down the rust and filled like many bodyshops seem to do (many really are either inept or lazy or both and charge you a fortune too). Rust will always come back if it isn't cut out and said bodyshops hide behind not covering rust when you take it back.
The acutal parts they have welded in "should" be fine if they have painted and protected properly. Protection also includes filing the insides with wax as cars rust inside out.
The acutal parts they have welded in "should" be fine if they have painted and protected properly. Protection also includes filing the insides with wax as cars rust inside out.
The front wings where indeed replaced at the time, yes.
All rust was to be treated, and the whole car was given a blow over.
At the same time, the rear subframe (bushes/diff/etc) where overhauled, and the boot floor/racp repaired and braces welded in.
All loose underseal removed, and the underside of the car painted.
All rust was to be treated, and the whole car was given a blow over.
At the same time, the rear subframe (bushes/diff/etc) where overhauled, and the boot floor/racp repaired and braces welded in.
All loose underseal removed, and the underside of the car painted.
A shame as they seem to have done a fairly decent job on the underside, I assume working with you to a budget, money no object of course you'd go back to metal and re-build from scratch, this job is to prolong the life of the car to the resources available.
Blowing over the body over the existing rust lets the whole job down, since that is what you look at all the time.
Blowing over the body over the existing rust lets the whole job down, since that is what you look at all the time.
Also, to add and to manage expectations as I have been in your position myself, restoring a car costs a fortune. If you want it to be rust free for along time a lot of it has to go back to metal, rust cut out and new metal welded in or at the least some sort of blasting to remove rust within pitting and the car repainted. You're probably looking at £20k to do it "right" i.e underside and the body.
I had a similar job done on my first old car. I had a dinitrol coating put underneath the car for about 300 quid and I had the car painted (windows out) for £5k. It looked nice for 5 mins but the arches starting rusting and it was at that point I learnt you either dig deep and do it properly or not at all.
I had a similar job done on my first old car. I had a dinitrol coating put underneath the car for about 300 quid and I had the car painted (windows out) for £5k. It looked nice for 5 mins but the arches starting rusting and it was at that point I learnt you either dig deep and do it properly or not at all.
VeeReihenmotor6 said:
What did the bodyshop do with the parts I have circled in green? They are the areas that continue to rust on your original pictures. I suspect they rubbed down the rust and filled like many bodyshops seem to do (many really are either inept or lazy or both and charge you a fortune too). Rust will always come back if it isn't cut out and said bodyshops hide behind not covering rust when you take it back.
The actual parts they have welded in "should" be fine if they have painted and protected properly. Protection also includes filing the insides with wax as cars rust inside out.
If I am honest, I don't knowThe actual parts they have welded in "should" be fine if they have painted and protected properly. Protection also includes filing the insides with wax as cars rust inside out.
The brief was always 'to do a good job, and to minimise than change of rust coming back' for a car i was planning to keep, rather than to bodge it to get another year MOT on the thing. Also that I was not aiming for concours finish as it was a car for using not showing,
Originally the car went in for subframe bushes, with the understanding there might be boot floor cracking, then it transpired the cills (sills if you must) needed doing and unfortunately the job ended up taking months and I struggled to view the car at all stages of the work. Including not seeing the prep before underseal/filler was applied.
I was told that new metal would be let in around the area to the bottom of the larger green circle, where the bottom of the 'c-pillar' has rusted through above the replaced lower outer cill.
My dealing was predominantly with a mechanical and 'german car specialist' who then subcontracted out the welding to a fabricator and the painting to a bodyshop that operated out of the adjoining unit. Both came recommended by a number of people in the area, but obviously that's not infallible.
Previously I had another guy treat the rust on the rear arches and replace the front wings, which held up fine for 6 years till this overall.
The car is used daily all year round and covers around 10-12k miles per year.
MDMA . said:
I’d say it’s the front and rear wings/panels that are rusting and I don’t think they have been replaced. Any photos as proof of replacement?
The front wings are bolt on parts, where replaced, and are not rusting. The 'rear wings' are part of the c-pillar and main shell and where not replaced.VeeReihenmotor6 said:
A shame as they seem to have done a fairly decent job on the underside, I assume working with you to a budget, money no object of course you'd go back to metal and re-build from scratch, this job is to prolong the life of the car to the resources available.
Blowing over the body over the existing rust lets the whole job down, since that is what you look at all the time.
Blowing over the body over the existing rust lets the whole job down, since that is what you look at all the time.
VeeReihenmotor6 said:
Also, to add and to manage expectations as I have been in your position myself, restoring a car costs a fortune. If you want it to be rust free for along time a lot of it has to go back to metal, rust cut out and new metal welded in or at the least some sort of blasting to remove rust within pitting and the car repainted. You're probably looking at £20k to do it "right" i.e underside and the body.
I had a similar job done on my first old car. I had a dinitrol coating put underneath the car for about 300 quid and I had the car painted (windows out) for £5k. It looked nice for 5 mins but the arches starting rusting and it was at that point I learnt you either dig deep and do it properly or not at all.
Yeah that's a fair summary of the job and I do get that it wasn't going to perfect given this was certainly not a £20k job.I had a similar job done on my first old car. I had a dinitrol coating put underneath the car for about 300 quid and I had the car painted (windows out) for £5k. It looked nice for 5 mins but the arches starting rusting and it was at that point I learnt you either dig deep and do it properly or not at all.
For balance, the mechanical work on the subframe etc was £3k and the paint was £2k all in.
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