DIY smart repairs
Discussion
Our Chili red Mini has a couple of patches of clear coat missing, with some paint missing too. One area looks like a previous smart repair (below a headlight), the other a bollard scuff (bumper).
I COULD get a smart repairer in, if I knew a good one (I don't) or we can do it at home. The appeal of the latter is that if we get any further marks we've got the gear and we don't need to wait for someone to come in. Teach a man to fish...
I have previously done kerb rash on the painted wheels of one of our cars, but with it being bodywork it will need to be a bit more advanced, because it will be more visible.
The plan it to rub down, if necessary use some high-build primer, base coat, clear coat, flat and polish.
The polish bit is what I am not to sure about. I don't REALLY want to buy a DA polisher, because I don't want to exceed the cost of a smart repairer!
Can anyone suggest a product suitable for hand polishing small areas please, or otherwise critique the above?
Years ago I went down the ‘teach a man to fish’ route and dealt with some stone chips. The first time you take abrasive paper to your own shiny paint is not something you forget.
It turned out great (eventually) and I’ve fixed all my paint issues since.
Unlike back then, YouTube is awash with people showing how to fix chips and scratches.
It turned out great (eventually) and I’ve fixed all my paint issues since.
Unlike back then, YouTube is awash with people showing how to fix chips and scratches.
swisstoni said:
Years ago I went down the ‘teach a man to fish’ route and dealt with some stone chips. The first time you take abrasive paper to your own shiny paint is not something you forget.
It turned out great (eventually) and I’ve fixed all my paint issues since.
Unlike back then, YouTube is awash with people showing how to fix chips and scratches.
Yes but they all show you how to do it with basic gear, and then break out the machine polisher!It turned out great (eventually) and I’ve fixed all my paint issues since.
Unlike back then, YouTube is awash with people showing how to fix chips and scratches.
Louis Balfour said:
swisstoni said:
Years ago I went down the ‘teach a man to fish’ route and dealt with some stone chips. The first time you take abrasive paper to your own shiny paint is not something you forget.
It turned out great (eventually) and I’ve fixed all my paint issues since.
Unlike back then, YouTube is awash with people showing how to fix chips and scratches.
Yes but they all show you how to do it with basic gear, and then break out the machine polisher!It turned out great (eventually) and I’ve fixed all my paint issues since.
Unlike back then, YouTube is awash with people showing how to fix chips and scratches.
The specialist gear is only needed if you want to get into it.
If you just want to sand flat any nibs & runs out of the new clearcoat then a machine polisher will make life quicker removing those sanding scratches.
If you want to do it by hand then I would suggest using very fine wet&dry to minimise the size of the scratches.
Perhaps 2000 grit or even 3000 grit.
Farecla 'Advanced G3 Liquid Compound' compound works fine for me, both machine & hand.
https://fareclaonline.co.uk/shop/advanced-g3-liqui...
Sold in motor factors, ebay etc.
ETA If using a mop on a drill be careful to keep it moving. If you don't you'll be surprised how quickly the area gets hot & it takes the paint off!
If you want to do it by hand then I would suggest using very fine wet&dry to minimise the size of the scratches.
Perhaps 2000 grit or even 3000 grit.
Farecla 'Advanced G3 Liquid Compound' compound works fine for me, both machine & hand.
https://fareclaonline.co.uk/shop/advanced-g3-liqui...
Sold in motor factors, ebay etc.
ETA If using a mop on a drill be careful to keep it moving. If you don't you'll be surprised how quickly the area gets hot & it takes the paint off!
Edited by paintman on Thursday 29th February 11:27
paintman said:
If you just want to sand flat any nibs & runs out of the new clearcoat then a machine polisher will make life quicker removing those sanding scratches.
If you want to do it by hand then I would suggest using very fine wet&dry to minimise the size of the scratches.
Perhaps 2000 grit or even 3000 grit.
Farecla 'Advanced G3 Liquid Compound' compound works fine for me, both machine & hand.
https://fareclaonline.co.uk/shop/advanced-g3-liqui...
Sold in motor factors, ebay etc.
ETA If using a mop on a drill be careful to keep it moving. If you don't you'll be surprised how quickly the area gets hot & it takes the paint off!
Thank you, ordered some.If you want to do it by hand then I would suggest using very fine wet&dry to minimise the size of the scratches.
Perhaps 2000 grit or even 3000 grit.
Farecla 'Advanced G3 Liquid Compound' compound works fine for me, both machine & hand.
https://fareclaonline.co.uk/shop/advanced-g3-liqui...
Sold in motor factors, ebay etc.
ETA If using a mop on a drill be careful to keep it moving. If you don't you'll be surprised how quickly the area gets hot & it takes the paint off!
Edited by paintman on Thursday 29th February 11:27
So we have some:
3m masking tape
Wet and dry 600-5000 grades
Farecla
Base coat and clear to be procured, probably from the local car accessory shop.
Do we need some tack rag and panel wipe? Anything else?
paintman said:
Louis Balfour said:
Thank you, ordered some.
So we have some:
3m masking tape
Wet and dry 600-5000 grades
Farecla
Base coat and clear to be procured, probably from the local car accessory shop.
Do we need some tack rag and panel wipe? Anything else?
Yes.So we have some:
3m masking tape
Wet and dry 600-5000 grades
Farecla
Base coat and clear to be procured, probably from the local car accessory shop.
Do we need some tack rag and panel wipe? Anything else?
That's about it.
One of the areas we've managed to flat out and I hope it will polish up.
The other was an area of lifting clear coat, I think from a previous smart repair, which got hit with a stone. That has been more of a challenge.
3 degrees temperature and only a fluorescent garage light (in the wrong place) so we've been working with a torch and a hairdryer.
The area required some base coat, but unfortunately the rattle can is quite thick and spattery. So the base coat finish is a bit thick and a bit orange peel. I am hopeful that I can flat it off tomorrow sufficient that the finish will be okay.
paintman said:
Louis Balfour said:
Thank you, ordered some.
So we have some:
3m masking tape
Wet and dry 600-5000 grades
Farecla
Base coat and clear to be procured, probably from the local car accessory shop.
Do we need some tack rag and panel wipe? Anything else?
Yes.So we have some:
3m masking tape
Wet and dry 600-5000 grades
Farecla
Base coat and clear to be procured, probably from the local car accessory shop.
Do we need some tack rag and panel wipe? Anything else?
That's about it.
It is however somewhat irrelevant because I am going to get the job done professionally. The first lot of paint was faulty and went on like underseal. It was very difficult to correct it with new paint and there are blemishes. But the bigger issue is that whilst the paint blended okay, it is noticeably redder than the bumper. Which I assume has faded.
I haven't the time or skills to do any more. I am not sure if I need a smart repairer or a bodyshop.
I use G3 all the time - albeit with a power mop - & have never had an issue with getting a high shine on the clear after flatting orange peel & any nibs.
I presume you didn't try & polish or sand the colour coat before applying the clear?
The temperature was far too low & I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of moisture was incorporated which may well have resulted in blooming.
In the days of cellulose when I was working in a motor factors we used to sell a lot of anti-bloom thinners to deal with that issue.
The temp won't have helped the paint to flow out - probably have the flow ability of cold treacle!
Might have been best putting the cans in a bucket of warm water.
Bodyshop likely to be the better option at this time of year.
Likely that the difference in shade will be that the paint you got is a different variant shade to that on the car.
Very common & most colours will have a number of different shades depending on which batch was in use at the time the car was built.
I presume you didn't try & polish or sand the colour coat before applying the clear?
The temperature was far too low & I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of moisture was incorporated which may well have resulted in blooming.
In the days of cellulose when I was working in a motor factors we used to sell a lot of anti-bloom thinners to deal with that issue.
The temp won't have helped the paint to flow out - probably have the flow ability of cold treacle!
Might have been best putting the cans in a bucket of warm water.
Bodyshop likely to be the better option at this time of year.
Likely that the difference in shade will be that the paint you got is a different variant shade to that on the car.
Very common & most colours will have a number of different shades depending on which batch was in use at the time the car was built.
paintman said:
I use G3 all the time - albeit with a power mop - & have never had an issue with getting a high shine on the clear after flatting orange peel & any nibs.
I presume you didn't try & polish or sand the colour coat before applying the clear?
The temperature was far too low & I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of moisture was incorporated which may well have resulted in blooming.
In the days of cellulose when I was working in a motor factors we used to sell a lot of anti-bloom thinners to deal with that issue.
The temp won't have helped the paint to flow out - probably have the flow ability of cold treacle!
Might have been best putting the cans in a bucket of warm water.
Bodyshop likely to be the better option at this time of year.
Likely that the difference in shade will be that the paint you got is a different variant shade to that on the car.
Very common & most colours will have a number of different shades depending on which batch was in use at the time the car was built.
Thanks.I presume you didn't try & polish or sand the colour coat before applying the clear?
The temperature was far too low & I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of moisture was incorporated which may well have resulted in blooming.
In the days of cellulose when I was working in a motor factors we used to sell a lot of anti-bloom thinners to deal with that issue.
The temp won't have helped the paint to flow out - probably have the flow ability of cold treacle!
Might have been best putting the cans in a bucket of warm water.
Bodyshop likely to be the better option at this time of year.
Likely that the difference in shade will be that the paint you got is a different variant shade to that on the car.
Very common & most colours will have a number of different shades depending on which batch was in use at the time the car was built.
It has reminded me why I don't meddle with cars myself anymore. I need to find a body shop in Nottingham that is any good..
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