Winter driving anti-corrosion products. Effing confused
Discussion
I want to go out in my motor a few times over the next few weeks, and for some reason the poxy council have decided to cake the road in salt when its only been 5-6 degrees minimum overnight round here.
In the new year, i'll have access to a ramp and i'm going to give the rear subframe a proper going over/rub down/paint and protection, but I want something quick and easy to jack it up and quick spray on it for until then.
I'm bloody confused though about what would be best to use.
I see on PH recommendations for all sorts, with no clear winner - Bilt Hamber, Waxoyl, Lanoguard, Dinitrol, ACF 50 etc etc.... are they all broadly similar in what they achieve? What's best for a quick spray to protect the subframe for a month or two before a proper job?
Advice gratefully received
In the new year, i'll have access to a ramp and i'm going to give the rear subframe a proper going over/rub down/paint and protection, but I want something quick and easy to jack it up and quick spray on it for until then.
I'm bloody confused though about what would be best to use.
I see on PH recommendations for all sorts, with no clear winner - Bilt Hamber, Waxoyl, Lanoguard, Dinitrol, ACF 50 etc etc.... are they all broadly similar in what they achieve? What's best for a quick spray to protect the subframe for a month or two before a proper job?
Advice gratefully received
There’s a couple of grades of aerosol dinitrol I use on my car, one is like liquid tar and the other is a clear wax like product (apologies don’t recall their exact names).
I used the thicker dark stuff for box sections as it creeps in and the clear stuff in the wheel arches.
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/treatment-centre
It’s still there years after application.
I went for this over waxoyl and the like.
There are also places that will apply for you after throughly cleaning / drying your car, so depends on how in depth a job you are after.
If you can, blast the car throughly underneath with a pressure washer or steam cleaner and allow to dry for a few days, run it on the road if zero salt is down. The firms above will use compressed air to do the same and also rectify rust I expect if they find any. Then apply thoroughly.
I used the thicker dark stuff for box sections as it creeps in and the clear stuff in the wheel arches.
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/treatment-centre
It’s still there years after application.
I went for this over waxoyl and the like.
There are also places that will apply for you after throughly cleaning / drying your car, so depends on how in depth a job you are after.
If you can, blast the car throughly underneath with a pressure washer or steam cleaner and allow to dry for a few days, run it on the road if zero salt is down. The firms above will use compressed air to do the same and also rectify rust I expect if they find any. Then apply thoroughly.
Edited by 996Type on Friday 15th December 11:34
Bilt Hamber do very good stuff and cover most eventualities, I've used most of them.
Dynax UB/UC - underbody sealant in clear or brown (they call it black)
Dynax S50 - cavity wax
Atom-Mac - use after every wash, can be sprayed over everything including brakes.
I also use ACF50 which kind of sits in the middle of Dynax and Atom-Mac in terms of longevity. Use a couple of times a winter, giving all the wheel wells a good dose, quite messy and leaves a sticky residue but works very well and can be removed in spring with a light degreaser if the accumulated grime bothers you.
I'm deeply suspicious about Lanoguard, they advertise on social media far too much. Dinitrol and Waxoyl are fairly old school products which I feel have been superceded.
Dynax UB/UC - underbody sealant in clear or brown (they call it black)
Dynax S50 - cavity wax
Atom-Mac - use after every wash, can be sprayed over everything including brakes.
I also use ACF50 which kind of sits in the middle of Dynax and Atom-Mac in terms of longevity. Use a couple of times a winter, giving all the wheel wells a good dose, quite messy and leaves a sticky residue but works very well and can be removed in spring with a light degreaser if the accumulated grime bothers you.
I'm deeply suspicious about Lanoguard, they advertise on social media far too much. Dinitrol and Waxoyl are fairly old school products which I feel have been superceded.
My understand is as follows:
ACF 50, a light a-c oil which basically does what WD40 claims, only it actually does it. Good for chromework and the like.
Lanoguard, lanoline based (sheep wax) coating that does ok but doesnt last very long. Re apply annually. I haven't used it personally.
Waxoyl, the old guard standard cavity wax, works but warm it up first. Also now in aerosol.
Dinitrol, large range of products, including cavity wax and underseal. Aerosol or Shultz tins. See below for details.
Bilt Hamber, , large range of products, including cavity wax and underseal. I have not used BH personally.
Dinitrol 'ML' is a penetrative, water displacing, brown cavity wax for use in areas where the surface cannot be prepared. (posh waxoyl)
Dinitrol '4941/Car' is a black bitumen based self healing under body protection coating which can be used over a clean dry surface, or ML.
You also have Owatrol Oil, which is common in Marine applications, and is basically an oil based penetrative rust inhibitor dries enough you can over paint it.
ACF 50, a light a-c oil which basically does what WD40 claims, only it actually does it. Good for chromework and the like.
Lanoguard, lanoline based (sheep wax) coating that does ok but doesnt last very long. Re apply annually. I haven't used it personally.
Waxoyl, the old guard standard cavity wax, works but warm it up first. Also now in aerosol.
Dinitrol, large range of products, including cavity wax and underseal. Aerosol or Shultz tins. See below for details.
Bilt Hamber, , large range of products, including cavity wax and underseal. I have not used BH personally.
Dinitrol 'ML' is a penetrative, water displacing, brown cavity wax for use in areas where the surface cannot be prepared. (posh waxoyl)
Dinitrol '4941/Car' is a black bitumen based self healing under body protection coating which can be used over a clean dry surface, or ML.
You also have Owatrol Oil, which is common in Marine applications, and is basically an oil based penetrative rust inhibitor dries enough you can over paint it.
Edited by dhutch on Friday 15th December 12:20
Lanoguard is great as it has to be done every year so delivers a constant revenue stream. Waxoyl diluted with engine oil is terrible as it's dirt cheap, dead easy to apply, will last a couple of years on the main surfaces and longer in the crevices.
Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
DonkeyApple said:
Lanoguard is great as it has to be done every year so delivers a constant revenue stream. Waxoyl diluted with engine oil is terrible as it's dirt cheap, dead easy to apply, will last a couple of years on the main surfaces and longer in the crevices.
Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
Contemplated getting one of those pressure washing attachments. Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
One of the detailing YT channels is based in Canada and its part of his routine. It does make sense and has to be better than flaying the regular lance about in the general direction of the underside of your car.
ChocolateFrog said:
DonkeyApple said:
Lanoguard is great as it has to be done every year so delivers a constant revenue stream. Waxoyl diluted with engine oil is terrible as it's dirt cheap, dead easy to apply, will last a couple of years on the main surfaces and longer in the crevices.
Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
Contemplated getting one of those pressure washing attachments. Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
One of the detailing YT channels is based in Canada and its part of his routine. It does make sense and has to be better than flaying the regular lance about in the general direction of the underside of your car.
Thanks all for the above - helpful stuff 
I should just not use the car really but its Christmas and I'd like to bomb around in it
SlimJim16v said:
If you're going to do a more thorough job shortly, just keep it clean until then.
XCP is another treatment.
I'd like to do that but the subframe is covered by an undertray which acts pretty much like a ram air duct for road grime/crap straight onto it, so for that reason and because keeping it clean is a major undertaking/faff I'd prefer to take tray off and do something to it now for peace of mind until Feb!XCP is another treatment.
I should just not use the car really but its Christmas and I'd like to bomb around in it
vikingaero said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Contemplated getting one of those pressure washing attachments.... It does make sense and has to be better than flaying the regular lance about in the general direction of the underside of your car.
They are relatively cheap <£30 the last time I looked.Even if you stick it on maintenance ramps and crawl underneath, or jack one side to the max and jet it without getting you head in the crush zone.
Here are:
Pressure Washer Car Undercarriage Under Body Chassis Cleaner, 1/4 Quick Release £27 posted.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384225082516?hash=item5...
I've got one of those underbody washers - Quite effective, easy enough to use - You can get a fair amount of mank off quite quickly, but I'd suggest getting an extra extension lance - I've only got one and you do end up crawling around getting a little soggy if you're not careful.
As for protection, I use ACF50 - Mostly have more modern cars, so a quick spray on exposed underbody, wheel arches and engine bay is enough to keep things fresher than comparable cars without much effort.
Perhaps when they're a little older I'd consider going for a more thorough cavity wax and solid underbody coating, but for now the yearly ACF does the trick.
As for protection, I use ACF50 - Mostly have more modern cars, so a quick spray on exposed underbody, wheel arches and engine bay is enough to keep things fresher than comparable cars without much effort.
Perhaps when they're a little older I'd consider going for a more thorough cavity wax and solid underbody coating, but for now the yearly ACF does the trick.
If its already seen any winter salt its too late for this season , unless you can wash it down underneath thoroughly and let it dry for several days in a building of some sort, this has always been a job for summertime.
I use ACF50 regularly, it goes on quickly and seeps right in, some others call the product but its been good for our cars over the years.
For heavier parts such as live axles large subframes and ladder chassis, if there's already evidence of rust setting in unless you go to the trouble of removing it all treating then painting then sealing with a proprirey wax based product sucvh as Bilt Hambers, you might as well just paintg the items in marine grease, then spray over with the ASF50 again for getting into all the nooks and crannies.
I use ACF50 regularly, it goes on quickly and seeps right in, some others call the product but its been good for our cars over the years.
For heavier parts such as live axles large subframes and ladder chassis, if there's already evidence of rust setting in unless you go to the trouble of removing it all treating then painting then sealing with a proprirey wax based product sucvh as Bilt Hambers, you might as well just paintg the items in marine grease, then spray over with the ASF50 again for getting into all the nooks and crannies.
vikingaero said:
ChocolateFrog said:
DonkeyApple said:
Lanoguard is great as it has to be done every year so delivers a constant revenue stream. Waxoyl diluted with engine oil is terrible as it's dirt cheap, dead easy to apply, will last a couple of years on the main surfaces and longer in the crevices.
Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
Contemplated getting one of those pressure washing attachments. Every couple of years I'll stick the cars on a ramp in summer, hot pressure wash the underside then give a spray with diluted waxoyl. During winter, I have one of those silly looking spray arms on wheels that connects to the pressure washer and on a low setting will periodically flush the underside of the cars to get rid of the worst of any salt an especially mud as it's really the mud that is the issue as it sits on the metalwork holding any salt and lots of moisture.
And if you don't have the time or energy to oil the underside then the next best thing is to just wash the mud off the underside regularly through winter.
One of the detailing YT channels is based in Canada and its part of his routine. It does make sense and has to be better than flaying the regular lance about in the general direction of the underside of your car.
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