Basic wintering advice

[hedges88]

I've never had a particularly rare car, or an example worth preserving before and this is my first time in this situation. I bought my Mitsubishi in the summer and using it has been a joy. I'm very conscious though that I'm using it a bit too much. It's expensive to run as well so I'm thinking of using my A class this winter and laying the Mitsubishi up. My car has been corrosion protected a few times and it has only slight rusting on the rear arches bodywork wise and nothing too concerning in terms of the underside and running gear. I'll add a picture of the worst affected parts. Rust has killed so many Galant's and I don't want it claiming mine. I don't have a garage, just a driveway unfortunately. Is getting a car cover helpful at all? or am I just creating a big damp tent with ideal rusting conditions? I was thinking of leaving it on axle stands to prevent flat spots, cleaning and waxing to protect the paint for sure. So in short, with no garage, what else can I do cheaply and easily to best prevent corrosion? any opinions on what's best to stop any interior mould as that is a painful thing to see on a car. The battery will be replaced when it's time to be used again so I won't need tips on battery care

[Belle427]

Forget the cover outside as it can cause more issues.
I wouldn't park it up personally, even if you used it once a week for a decent journey it would benefit it.
Not much else you can do really.

[PositronicRay]

Ctek and tyres inflated to higher allowed pressure, fill washer fluid, check coolant, some will say fill fuel tank to prevent condensation, keep an eye on interior to prevent musty dampness, treat the window seals.

If you're going to start the car take it for a decent run to get everything (exhaust, transmission, tyres, engine, suspension, electrics, interior) properly warm.

[Polome]

The rust shown on your arches is fairly easy to avoid ( probably too late for your car now ) Once a month hose/wash out the mud etc from the turned in lip of the wheel arch , you’d be amazed the amount that gathers. It’s this build up that soaks through to body and causes rust from the inside. One of my cars 23 years old , used all year round and has no rusty arches.

[vinnie07]

Belle427 said:

Forget the cover outside as it can cause more issues.
I wouldn't park it up personally, even if you used it once a week for a decent journey it would benefit it.
Not much else you can do really.

Completely agree with this advice

[hedges88]

vinnie07 said:

Belle427 said:

Forget the cover outside as it can cause more issues.
I wouldn't park it up personally, even if you used it once a week for a decent journey it would benefit it.
Not much else you can do really.

Completely agree with this advice

Thanks for everyone's advice

I'd love to keep it running occasionally as I know that is best. It's a old school, if complex, motor and there's lots and lots of interconnected hoses and pipes, places where Trans, coolant and hydraulic fluid could all cross contaminate through a perished or leaking pipe. I know that regular use is actually good in this regard but quite honestly with the way things are right now insuring and taxing two cars is something I'm avoiding. I'm so confused because it seems that if you do a dayinsure then somehow that taxes the car as well? If that's really the case then I could realistically run it through now and then. Anyone done a dayinsure of a SORN car?

I'll ignore car covers and focus on a good thorough cleaning then get some protection on the paintwork. I used that Demonshine stuff on my Mercedes which goes unused for long periods and it has actually kept dirt from building anywhere like normal. Thanks for the advice regarding getting behind the arches thoroughly. The A/C does not work and I've never investigated, but if it just needs a re-gas, would running A/C help in preventing mould at all? It would at least place a load on the engine for sure when warming it through

Window seals I will gladly do. it just happens I have a stick of Gummi Pflege so ill get to renewing and protecting all the rubber seals when I clean it. I'll be sure to fill the washer with a good antifreeze solution. Coolant will probably be new as it has to be drained for it's pending work on the master cylinder and brake renewal. I'm on winter tyres so if I inflate a little higher ill better fend off any flat spots. I think the harder winter compound will help.

Edited by hedges88 on Thursday 14th December 03:26

[Belle427]

You cant do much for the paintwork really, demon shine is a bit rubbish so you would be better off giving it a coat of something like fusso coat wax which claims to have a 12 month durability.
As for the brake discs etc Bilt Hamber do a product called atom mac which is a dilutable corrosion inhibitor you can easily spray on, its not cheap but goes a long way.
Its designed to be sprayed on existing corrosion too so may help slow the body stuff but this ideally should be repaired before it gets any worse.

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 14th December 06:44

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 14th December 06:44

[hedges88]

Belle427 said:

You cant do much for the paintwork really, demon shine is a bit rubbish so you would be better off giving it a coat of something like fusso coat wax which claims to have a 12 month durability.
As for the brake discs etc Bilt Hamber do a product called atom mac which is a dilutable corrosion inhibitor you can easily spray on, its not cheap but goes a long way.
Its designed to be sprayed on existing corrosion too so may help slow the body stuff but this ideally should be repaired before it gets any worse.

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 14th December 06:44

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 14th December 06:44

Serious thanks. I just ordered some (dark) It's hydrophobic as well so absolutely perfect!

[swisstoni]

I’ve seen rather too many rusty arches in my time and the ones pictured look in quite a bad way.
It really needs taking back to bare metal where I’m sure there will be a lot more than currently meets the eye. It then needs to be cut out or treated.

Otherwise it will continue to rot out. No amount of washing and waxing is going to prevent that I’m afraid. Rust is an absolute bd.

[hedges88]

swisstoni said:

I’ve seen rather too many rusty arches in my time and the ones pictured look in quite a bad way.
It really needs taking back to bare metal where I’m sure there will be a lot more than currently meets the eye. It then needs to be cut out or treated.

Otherwise it will continue to rot out. No amount of washing and waxing is going to prevent that I’m afraid. Rust is an absolute bd.

I'm kind of shocked! I have not had much dealings with rust, my E39 had paint bubbling on the lower doors but that's about the extent of it. I thought that rust was just from paint chips etc and could be dealt with in good time. Thankyou for letting me know because I will get someone on that in the new year. Galant's all rust on the rear arches.

I can't help it but with your username would you say that rust removal is like making love to a beautiful woman?

[InitialDave]

I'm with Swiss Toni here, that arch photo is rust coming through from the traps in panel joints etc on the inside. It's going to need active intervention to resolve.

Not having a pop, I have a few Japanese cars that are JDM originated, and much as I love them, frankly the Japanese couldn't rustproof plastic.

As well as the Bilt Hamber Atom Mac that's been mentioned, I think your primary line of defence is to keep the car well aired-out and rinse off any potential salt contamination from winter roads with fresh water as necessary.

Also maybe pull the arch liners and really clean out behind there, and the traps formed by bumper returns etc, nothing worse than a nice poultice of mud and dirt packed away in there to promote rust.

[hedges88]

InitialDave said:

I'm with Swiss Toni here, that arch photo is rust coming through from the traps in panel joints etc on the inside. It's going to need active intervention to resolve.

Not having a pop, I have a few Japanese cars that are JDM originated, and much as I love them, frankly the Japanese couldn't rustproof plastic.

As well as the Bilt Hamber Atom Mac that's been mentioned, I think your primary line of defence is to keep the car well aired-out and rinse off any potential salt contamination from winter roads with fresh water as necessary.

Also maybe pull the arch liners and really clean out behind there, and the traps formed by bumper returns etc, nothing worse than a nice poultice of mud and dirt packed away in there to promote rust.

Pulling the arch liner is my first task then. Indeed anything moist or damp in there is not good at all. I am well aware unfortunately of JDM rust issues. If you find yourself thumbing your way through auctions or overseas importers like I do, the reason for their poor rustproofing becomes very apparent. Some cars there 2 decades old look like they have only seen less than half of that.

Rust is the reason that there are so few Galant's left, given how bloody durable they are it's plain to see it's the culprit. I think mine has survived because I can see three receipts regarding rustproofing over it's lifespan. The last I think is 2015 so it needs doing again. It's on winter tyres so I think it's seen it's share of winter use. If it starts to become more severe of an issue that I can't afford to tackle I will sell it to a member of one of the owners groups.

Given how coastal Japan is, I take it's just our use of road salt that does this to cars here?