Machine polishing/light "paint correction" advice for moron
Discussion
In short, I'm well versed in how to clean the car properly (at least to the standard I require), then clay bar, decontaminate etc.
I've hand polished, with Autoglym Super Resin polish, the car a few times over the last 2 years.
What i want to do is polish it thoroughly and really get rid of a good percentage of the swirl marks/general paint scratches that are noticeable under good light and up close. I'd look to apply the Autoglym or equivalent Ceramic coating after.
I have looked at paying a detailer to do this locally, and it's all around the £250-300 mark, plus ceramic coating.
So, I thought about buying a £50-60 machine polisher and learning to do it to at least a very basic level myself. Looks like a half decent Hyundai branded machine can be had for this.
Firstly, am I a moron to attempt this, and secondly, what would I need beyond a decent polish compound? I'm a little confused about different polish pad materials, cutting agents/resins etc.... I can appreciate (being mechanically sympathetic,) there needs to be great care around creases/lines on the car to keep abrasion equal etc.
How would an idiot go about getting a car very basically polished up properly
I've hand polished, with Autoglym Super Resin polish, the car a few times over the last 2 years.
What i want to do is polish it thoroughly and really get rid of a good percentage of the swirl marks/general paint scratches that are noticeable under good light and up close. I'd look to apply the Autoglym or equivalent Ceramic coating after.
I have looked at paying a detailer to do this locally, and it's all around the £250-300 mark, plus ceramic coating.
So, I thought about buying a £50-60 machine polisher and learning to do it to at least a very basic level myself. Looks like a half decent Hyundai branded machine can be had for this.
Firstly, am I a moron to attempt this, and secondly, what would I need beyond a decent polish compound? I'm a little confused about different polish pad materials, cutting agents/resins etc.... I can appreciate (being mechanically sympathetic,) there needs to be great care around creases/lines on the car to keep abrasion equal etc.
How would an idiot go about getting a car very basically polished up properly
A ceramic coating wouldn’t bond to SRP as it’s actually a glaze and designed to temporarily fill defects until the next time you wash and you’re back to square one.
You’d generally need two stages of machine polishing (although a big improvement can be made with a single stage) to remove defects and then a refining stage which gives greater gloss and clarity to the paintwork.
A panel wipe is then required to remove any polishing oils, fillers and give a clean surface ready for your choice of coating to bond to.
You’d generally need two stages of machine polishing (although a big improvement can be made with a single stage) to remove defects and then a refining stage which gives greater gloss and clarity to the paintwork.
A panel wipe is then required to remove any polishing oils, fillers and give a clean surface ready for your choice of coating to bond to.
Boyd Rees said:
A ceramic coating wouldn’t bond to SRP as it’s actually a glaze and designed to temporarily fill defects until the next time you wash and you’re back to square one.
You’d generally need two stages of machine polishing (although a big improvement can be made with a single stage) to remove defects and then a refining stage which gives greater gloss and clarity to the paintwork.
A panel wipe is then required to remove any polishing oils, fillers and give a clean surface ready for your choice of coating to bond to.
Thanks for that You’d generally need two stages of machine polishing (although a big improvement can be made with a single stage) to remove defects and then a refining stage which gives greater gloss and clarity to the paintwork.
A panel wipe is then required to remove any polishing oils, fillers and give a clean surface ready for your choice of coating to bond to.
How would I pair that with a machine/materials.... i.e what is used for the 1 or 2 stage machine polish in terms of compounds/pads/technique..... and then followed by the same for refining?
Cheers
If you have a look over on Detailing World you'll be able to read about machine polishing for several days!
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forums/machine-po...
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forums/machine-po...
Krhuangbin said:
Boyd Rees said:
A ceramic coating wouldn’t bond to SRP as it’s actually a glaze and designed to temporarily fill defects until the next time you wash and you’re back to square one.
You’d generally need two stages of machine polishing (although a big improvement can be made with a single stage) to remove defects and then a refining stage which gives greater gloss and clarity to the paintwork.
A panel wipe is then required to remove any polishing oils, fillers and give a clean surface ready for your choice of coating to bond to.
Thanks for that You’d generally need two stages of machine polishing (although a big improvement can be made with a single stage) to remove defects and then a refining stage which gives greater gloss and clarity to the paintwork.
A panel wipe is then required to remove any polishing oils, fillers and give a clean surface ready for your choice of coating to bond to.
How would I pair that with a machine/materials.... i.e what is used for the 1 or 2 stage machine polish in terms of compounds/pads/technique..... and then followed by the same for refining?
Cheers
I’m pretty old school and generally use Menzerna or Sonax compounds and polishes with a wide variety of different makes of pads, Lake Country probably being my most commonly used make.
Tbh as a newbie I’d be more inclined to buy some scrap panels to practise on before going anywhere near your own car.
If not pay for a detailer who’s obviously going to be more experienced to do it for you. Maybe even ask if they’re prepared to let you watch
I am a novice (moron) in the world of machine polishing, but have done a couple of my cars to a standard I am pleased with.
I was equally well-versed in cleaning, claying etc. I watched a lot of you tube videos and went easy. I have not been very adventurous and frankly the number of products and pad combinations almost scared me into not having a go.
I use something quite light (Meguiars Ultimate compound).
Just got to take the plunge, I didn't find it too stressful. But my cars are not that valuable.
I am also a moron as I roller painted my classic campervan - but that turned out pretty good too... And I also machine polished that after a lot of hand sanding and finishing.....
I was equally well-versed in cleaning, claying etc. I watched a lot of you tube videos and went easy. I have not been very adventurous and frankly the number of products and pad combinations almost scared me into not having a go.
I use something quite light (Meguiars Ultimate compound).
Just got to take the plunge, I didn't find it too stressful. But my cars are not that valuable.
I am also a moron as I roller painted my classic campervan - but that turned out pretty good too... And I also machine polished that after a lot of hand sanding and finishing.....
https://youtu.be/-XsQ92kxG-c?si=sA0bi11A3ezb5tf9
This is the Hyundai one.
I've watched a lot of videos on YT, and have done a lot of fine polishing on my cars.
I would like to sand down the orange peel, but don't have the balls yet.
This is the Hyundai one.
I've watched a lot of videos on YT, and have done a lot of fine polishing on my cars.
I would like to sand down the orange peel, but don't have the balls yet.
Everyone has to start somewhere.
I started with the Meguiars 3 Step Deep Crystal System, still available today.
Very old school. No machines. Just 3 bottles and a bit of elbow grease required. Absolutely moron proof !
I was so blown away by what could be achieved (truly glass like finish) that it eventually led to shelves full of gear and years of fixing and caring for the paint on all the cars I’ve had since.
I started with the Meguiars 3 Step Deep Crystal System, still available today.
Very old school. No machines. Just 3 bottles and a bit of elbow grease required. Absolutely moron proof !
I was so blown away by what could be achieved (truly glass like finish) that it eventually led to shelves full of gear and years of fixing and caring for the paint on all the cars I’ve had since.
Polishing isn't hugely difficult if you approach it right and given you've asked for tips on here you sound like you're approaching it right.
1. Look at dual action machines rather than rotary. They are far more forgiving when inexperienced.
2. Be aware of swage lines and edges as you mentioned so keep the machine and pad moving.
3. Watch the YouTube videos, you will learn alot.
4. Use less abrasive compounds at first, and I think two of the best to start with are Meguiars Ultimate compound, this will cut but isn't aggressive and unlikely to get yourself into bother. This will leave marring and hologram.type effects on your oaint afterwards when bright sunlight catches them. But it will also remove the swirls you mention.
5. Meguiars ultimate polish is the second one I would recommend. Use this after number 4 above. Its even less aggressive but will now get rid of the marring and hologram.type issues leaving a proper polished finish.
Both these from meguiars are great to start with as readily available and mild enough to keep you safe but still good enough to get the job done.
This is exactly what I started with from the recommendation of a trade person and I was astonished a numpty like me got such a good result first time around.
Don't rush it. Be methodical and enjoy the results.
Once this is done a ceramic coating is a logical next step and something like CarPro - CQuartz UK 3.0 is again easy to use and will give good results from a home application.
Just my tuppence worth but it worked for me before moving onto more advanced lotions and potions so to speak
1. Look at dual action machines rather than rotary. They are far more forgiving when inexperienced.
2. Be aware of swage lines and edges as you mentioned so keep the machine and pad moving.
3. Watch the YouTube videos, you will learn alot.
4. Use less abrasive compounds at first, and I think two of the best to start with are Meguiars Ultimate compound, this will cut but isn't aggressive and unlikely to get yourself into bother. This will leave marring and hologram.type effects on your oaint afterwards when bright sunlight catches them. But it will also remove the swirls you mention.
5. Meguiars ultimate polish is the second one I would recommend. Use this after number 4 above. Its even less aggressive but will now get rid of the marring and hologram.type issues leaving a proper polished finish.
Both these from meguiars are great to start with as readily available and mild enough to keep you safe but still good enough to get the job done.
This is exactly what I started with from the recommendation of a trade person and I was astonished a numpty like me got such a good result first time around.
Don't rush it. Be methodical and enjoy the results.
Once this is done a ceramic coating is a logical next step and something like CarPro - CQuartz UK 3.0 is again easy to use and will give good results from a home application.
Just my tuppence worth but it worked for me before moving onto more advanced lotions and potions so to speak
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