Lanoguard underbody protection

[ian-2mym1]

Thinking of getting some for some underbody protection on a few cars we own. anybody used it?

Pros and cons?

[Heaveho]

ian-2mym1 said:

Thinking of getting some for some underbody protection on a few cars we own. anybody used it?

Pros and cons?

Just my opinion. If it's rusty, nothing getting sprayed or painted on to it is going to prevent it from being an issue going forward. Complete removal is the only thing that makes me confident of a long term outcome. I'm old school about stuff like this though. And I'm putting my money where my mouth is, I'm just about to start a thread asking what is the best angle grinder / drill attachment is best for rust removal to get back to bright metal.

If anyone has any real world experience of doing things any other way that actually provides a genuine long term solution, I'd love to know.

[foggy]

How about if it’s not rusty though? People keen to add another layer of protection, if yes any good.

[Belle427]

Most reports say its crap.
Go for something from dinitrol or bilt hamber which will contain corrosion inhibitors and are much better products.

[Riley Blue]

Doesn't it need re-applying every year to maintain protection? On a few cars that's going to be a PITA.

[vikingaero]

Watching some Land Rovers on YouTube and having updates a year later it doesn't seem that durable. Sure the larger panels under the car seem as good as when it was applied, but it had all gone from anything near the wheels and where the wheels spray/water/grit abrade onto.

[ian-2mym1]

foggy said:

How about if it’s not rusty though? People keen to add another layer of protection, if yes any good.

Thats the plan, its to protect from future corrosion on a newish car.

[TwinKam]

Some say that the sheepy smell lingers... probably not a problem on a MK1 Landy in Yorkshire, but on an Evoque in Kensington?...

[Summit_Detailing]

They certainly appear to spend a lot of money on marketing/advertising.

Anything Lanolin based doesn't last well, typically disappearing within a year (usage/conditions dependent), easily bettered by Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (brown) or UC (clear) or Dinitrol for actual long term protection.

https://bilthamber.com/dynax-s50-best-cavity-wax-t...

Cheers,

Chris

[SussexTrek]

I used lanoguard on my pretty rusty MK2 Octavia last year. Didn't treat the rust beforehand, just a good wire brush and pressure wash clean. Applied to all external surfaces and injected into both sills.

A year later at re application time it was clear the rust hadn't progressed (the external that I could see obviously )I was happy with it- handy you can clearly see the state of the underside of the car as it's clear unlike other treatments where the rust can continue.

Very quick and easy to use. Since sold the octy but I'd happily use it again.

[Grenadier_45]

Thought this might interest: https://youtu.be/F2o3RYWBeAI?si=LbOCktrL2SzCwMgs

Basically he's just sprayed Fluid Film (or similar Lanolin based coatings as he says), and not even bothered to clean it all up each year. Seems to have worked well, if you're not bothered by a level of unsightliness. And he can presumable jet wash it all off if he needs to do surgery to something under there. He's got a series going back 6 years showing how his and his father's trucks have fared in the rust belt.

[5s Alive]

I've just re-applied it on mine (done from new) although it probably didn't need it. 5k through a wet and salty Scottish winter doesn't seem to have affected it at all.

Stripped down the brakes to do the back plates and hubs and there were patches of rust on the back of the hubs where I previously missed application.

Garage stank of sheep for a week. A disposable car sized polythene cover is a good idea as fine spray fallout gets everywhere and is a sod to get off.

24-48hrs to properly cure before driving in the rain or through standing water, 12hrs or so in dry summer weather but still takes longer to fully cure.

Beats everything else I've tried over the last 5 decades.

[Olivera]

Grenadier_45 said:

Thought this might interest: https://youtu.be/F2o3RYWBeAI?si=LbOCktrL2SzCwMgs

Basically he's just sprayed Fluid Film (or similar Lanolin based coatings as he says), and not even bothered to clean it all up each year. Seems to have worked well, if you're not bothered by a level of unsightliness. And he can presumable jet wash it all off if he needs to do surgery to something under there. He's got a series going back 6 years showing how his and his father's trucks have fared in the rust belt.

It's fine on a utilitarian vehicle like a truck or cheap shed, but if it's a classic or other car that you really care about then I find the layer of st sprayed on the underside just far too messy and unsightly. Imagine having a brand new car that's pristine undeneath then spraying all that stty sludge everywhere :/

Are there any similar products that are clear and far less sludge like?

[Bonefish Blues]

Summit_Detailing said:

They certainly appear to spend a lot of money on marketing/advertising.

Anything Lanolin based doesn't last well, typically disappearing within a year (usage/conditions dependent), easily bettered by Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (brown) or UC (clear) or Dinitrol for actual long term protection.

https://bilthamber.com/dynax-s50-best-cavity-wax-t...

Cheers,

Chris

That's why it's currently trending then - marketing spend. Seems a wholly unsuitable product for the purpose.

[Chlorothalonil]

I have been using Dinitrol on mine, which seems to last well and avoids the hassle and expense of the annual lanolin treatments. Seems like a lot of marketing especially around Lanoguard but little in the way of proof.

To me, it’s going to be more cost-effective to use Dinitrol or similar.