is rubbing compound what I need here?

[Blackpuddin]

I'm in the process of rattle-canning a wing for my old Merc, something I've never done properly before so have pity on me. There are more coats to be put on but I have ended up with a few 'heavy' patches where I lingered a bit too long in one place with the can. Is something like Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound the stuff to get these bits blended in, or will 2000-grit wet sandpaper be better?
Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

Edited by Blackpuddin on Sunday 2nd July 21:01

[paintman]

What colour is it?

What do you mean by 'heavy patches' - is it runs & sags from too much paint or are the areas where you've applied too much paint darker then the rest?

[Blackpuddin]

The second one, patches that are slightly darker than the rest. I've got more coats to apply but I'm wondering whether I should try to rub these patches lighter, before I carry on or when I've finished spraying it. And then what stuff to use, rubbing compound or just fine grit paper. Or something else. Colour is Mercedes Smoke Silver (Rauchsilber) which is a slightly browny silver. Thanks for taking the trouble to reply.

[paintman]

Had a feeling it was going to be a pale(ish) metallic.

Does the paint you've got require you to spray the colour coat & then spray clearcoat over the top?

With a spraygun it would be applied as a base coat (the colour coat) followed by clearcoat (clear lacquer).

You won't be able to blend the dark areas by using rubbing compound or sanding.
You need to sand the surface flat to remove any runs, sags or nibs & apply even coats to give good coverage of uniform appearance.

There is also a possibility - esp if it's a 1k clearcoat - that once you've got the base coat to a satisfactory appearance heavy coats of clear can lift some of the metallic element & you'll get a sparkly waterfall run which can only be dealt with by refinishing. Common in the days of solvent based paints.

It's a matter of technique & unfortunately that only comes with experience. Not made any easier by using rattlecans.

Rattle cans of wheelsilver - that don't need a clearcoat - suffer the same issue, too much applied (too wet) & the metallic elements will sink & look dark, too little applied & it won't flow out properly leaving bad orange peel.

Edited by paintman on Tuesday 4th July 00:11

[Blackpuddin]

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
I don't know if the paint I'm using requires lacquer, it says nothing on the can (see pics below). I was going to put some lacquer on anyway, as much for protection as anything else. I'm not expecting perfection or anything like it, it's a '96 Merc at the end of the day but I would like it to last for as long as possible. Cosmetics aren't as important as endurance. Looking at the panel today, a couple of days after, it doesn't look too bad.

Edited by Blackpuddin on Tuesday 4th July 09:02

[paintman]

Blackpuddin said:

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
I don't know if the paint I'm using requires lacquer, it says nothing on the can (see pics below). I was going to put some lacquer on anyway, as much for protection as anything else. I'm not expecting perfection or anything like it, it's a '96 Merc at the end of the day but I would like it to last for as long as possible. Cosmetics aren't as important as endurance. Looking at the panel today, a couple of days after, it doesn't look too bad.

Edited by Blackpuddin on Tuesday 4th July 09:02

I'm guessing that's been supplied to your order rather than an off-the-shelf aerosol.
But you need to speak to the supplier to be absolutely certain & if it is clear over base then what clear they sell/recommend.
That said, it's normal for metallics & other 'effects' paints to be applied as clear over base as I said in my previous post & they must be clearcoated as that's what gives you the shiny coat.

Ask them for the Technical Data Sheets (TDS) as that gives you the instructions for use plus the time between each coat & the timeframe for applying the clear.

Edited by paintman on Tuesday 4th July 09:42

[Blackpuddin]

That paint comes from ebay. I got some blue for my MX-5 and the guy who did the sills on that was pretty impressed with it.
I will contact the supplier for lacquer info, thank you very much indeed for your advice.

Edited by Blackpuddin on Tuesday 4th July 10:07

[paintman]

I've had a look at their ebay ad 'paints4u.com'.

Couldn't find the aerosol for yours, but a look at one of their other MB colour aerosols says:
"This aerosol with its fine atomisation nozzle will be made using only the highest quality bodyshop quality basecoat paint. All basecoat paints dry to a matt finish and will need to be overcoated with a Clear Lacquer".
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324090165099

There is a PDF link to the instructions but I haven't looked at that.

Shows a click link to their own clear. Unfortunately that's a 1k clear which won't be as durable as 2k & may well not be solvent or petrol proof if you spill stuff on it. Can also go dull over time.

You can get 2k clear aerosols which require a button to be pressed to allow the clear & hardener to mix & that may give you a better result but once mixed you have limited time to paint as it hardens by chemical reaction & will set inside the aerosol.
If you do go that way then read the TDS sheets esp as regards respiratory protection.

Edited by paintman on Tuesday 4th July 10:36

[Blackpuddin]

Yes I already have some of their Clear Lacquer, again it says nowt on the tin.

[ARHarh]

Having just fixed the rear wing on my MX5 with paints4u kit

https://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produ...

It will almost certainly need clear coat. Then plenty of G3 to cut it back especially if you don't paint the whole panel. See this PDF

https://www.paints4u.com/pdffiles/Full%20Aerosol%2...

I am really pleased with the results on mine, and can highly recommend their service and products.

[Blackpuddin]

That PDF is a good guide, thanks.