Headlight Restoration Fail
Discussion
So I’ve just spent ages using a headlight restoration kit off Ebay that was recommended to me on here. I’ve only done one headlight as I want to do better with other one. So I tried using the sandpaper on disc which I attached to a drill. This didn’t go very well and just switched to doing it manually and making sure to wet it as I go along. The sandpaper i used was 800-1200-2000 grit followed by a polish paste which I did use with the drill. So after doing that the oxidation was removed but they were quite hazy and there loads of fine scratches on the headlight which are very obvious when the headlights are on. I tried using some household polish to make is less hazy and it worked quite well however there are still loads of scratches. Any advice or other products you would recommend? 
Interested too as I have tried this a couple of times using same process then finished with Meguiars Plastic Plastx Plastic Cleaner Restorer Polish Headlight Acrylic. Spent ages with pads on drills etc.
Despite its 5 star reviews get exactly the same, fine scratches and not perfectly clear. in the end bought some new headlamps. also found the old headamps had slight cracking hazing in the plastic itself, so no amount of surface polising would eliminate this.
So either we are missing something or the people on youtube who claim sucess , do no better but think its better than when they started.
Despite its 5 star reviews get exactly the same, fine scratches and not perfectly clear. in the end bought some new headlamps. also found the old headamps had slight cracking hazing in the plastic itself, so no amount of surface polising would eliminate this.
So either we are missing something or the people on youtube who claim sucess , do no better but think its better than when they started.
Discolored headlight lenses are a problem here in California and I have done a few cars. Some cars have been significantly worse, but I have tried the Turtle Wax one before with decent success. Most recently though, I tried the Rust-o-leum product - you need to use gloves - and it works pretty well.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/g1470...
None of them are perfect though and nothing will ever get them back to original state, other than getting new headlights. And consider where the damage is too - our old R53 Mini had terrible oxidation and we could cut right through this with ease. However, the current F31 BMW we have has a lot of damage on the inside of the light, so cant get to it. They are way better than they were, but I really have no choice other than replacing them.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/g1470...
None of them are perfect though and nothing will ever get them back to original state, other than getting new headlights. And consider where the damage is too - our old R53 Mini had terrible oxidation and we could cut right through this with ease. However, the current F31 BMW we have has a lot of damage on the inside of the light, so cant get to it. They are way better than they were, but I really have no choice other than replacing them.
I’ve used a 3m kit with wipes and a 3000 grit “trizact” sanding sponge. Worked really well and the lights still look great 3 years later.
Have to make sure you’re spending long enough on each stage that the scratches from the previous grit are removed. Instructions on the 3m kit actually said to not polish the lens as the sealant in the kit needs a key in the surface and will fill in the fine marks from the 3000 grit sponge.
Took me a couple of hours per light but saved me hundreds in new lights as the only other option would have been complete new units.
Other people recommend using a 2k laquer on the lens but that has h+s issues if you’re doing it yourself.
Have to make sure you’re spending long enough on each stage that the scratches from the previous grit are removed. Instructions on the 3m kit actually said to not polish the lens as the sealant in the kit needs a key in the surface and will fill in the fine marks from the 3000 grit sponge.
Took me a couple of hours per light but saved me hundreds in new lights as the only other option would have been complete new units.
Other people recommend using a 2k laquer on the lens but that has h+s issues if you’re doing it yourself.
I did my unobtainable Fiat Coupe lights using various grades of wet and dry, then finished off with a DA polisher using cutting compound, took half a day and the result was amazing.
Used the same method on my BMW E46 and was disappointed, the crazing went all the way through the plastic so despite a mirror smooth surface the crazing scatters the light resulting in poor night time illumination.
My previous E36 had lenses that looked like they had been sand blasted, they were replaceable glass though and cost me about £60, no such luck with the E46 as at the time lenses or complete units were unavailable.
Used the same method on my BMW E46 and was disappointed, the crazing went all the way through the plastic so despite a mirror smooth surface the crazing scatters the light resulting in poor night time illumination.
My previous E36 had lenses that looked like they had been sand blasted, they were replaceable glass though and cost me about £60, no such luck with the E46 as at the time lenses or complete units were unavailable.
My_FirstCar said:
So I’ve just spent ages using a headlight restoration kit off Ebay
think i might have spotted the problem, why do people still think they are getting a bargin on ebay, its full of tat that doesnt work, all to save pence. get a proper kit, or just use wet and dry and polish like the people who do it for a living do, very fine wet and dry, and polish, corse to fine, then a final buff, however you wont get good results doing it by hand, unless you are prepaired to spend hours and hours.dont forget wet and dry and polish is good enough for a showroom shine on paint!!
Used the 3M kit which worked well.
You have to follow the instructions very carefully which brand you choose, one stage required dry abrasion one wet and one with the supplied compound, you could easily get one or more of these stages wrong, after the initial dry abrasion i looked with horror at a lens that resembled frosted glass seeing in my mind's eye the several £hundreds new headlight were going to cost, but sure enough keeping calm and following the instructions to the letter produced impressive results in the end if i say so myself.
I'd previously used metal polishes which had done the job till then but a deeper cut than Peek/Solvol was needed after 17 years of sunlight damage.
Agree with buying a decent brand for such jobs if you don't have professional buffing equipment/compounds, if a proper kit costs £30 instead of dodgy tenners worth of tat its still little expense compared to the £700 a pair of new headlights were going to cost.
You have to follow the instructions very carefully which brand you choose, one stage required dry abrasion one wet and one with the supplied compound, you could easily get one or more of these stages wrong, after the initial dry abrasion i looked with horror at a lens that resembled frosted glass seeing in my mind's eye the several £hundreds new headlight were going to cost, but sure enough keeping calm and following the instructions to the letter produced impressive results in the end if i say so myself.
I'd previously used metal polishes which had done the job till then but a deeper cut than Peek/Solvol was needed after 17 years of sunlight damage.
Agree with buying a decent brand for such jobs if you don't have professional buffing equipment/compounds, if a proper kit costs £30 instead of dodgy tenners worth of tat its still little expense compared to the £700 a pair of new headlights were going to cost.
It's hard to see from the pic, but from what you've described you need to work your way back up the abrasion level at least a step, depending on how deep the scratches left are. You're only supposed to work down after you've got the worst of it out.
I wouldn't worry too much about the type of "kit" you've used, you've taken the right approach in terms of working through the grades of wet and dry, finishing with the paste then (hopefully) lacquering over them at the end.
I'd avoid using a drill as it doesn't allow you to keep even pressure over the area, stick to hand.
I wouldn't worry too much about the type of "kit" you've used, you've taken the right approach in terms of working through the grades of wet and dry, finishing with the paste then (hopefully) lacquering over them at the end.
I'd avoid using a drill as it doesn't allow you to keep even pressure over the area, stick to hand.
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