Turtle wax carbon ceramic problem
Discussion
Been using this product for over a year, really happy with it.
Been using it in the usual way which is clean car, dry car and then apply panel at a time with dry mf and then buff to a shine. Lasts 2-3 months easily so only put it on maybe 3-4 times.
Now... stupid mistake really.
So I have noticed my MF cloths have not been washing as well and are now very repellent so I assume its the TW product sticking to the cloth. OK so in my genius brain what I will do is spray the turtle wax onto the car whilst its wet, then dry it off with the cloths and straight into the washing machine...
Dunno why I thought that was a good idea.
So the car has now got what looks like really bad water marks on it. (I used filtered water)
I think whats happened the MF did not dry 100% then the TW has set in the water if you see what I mean.
I have now washed the car again and the marks are still there....
What do we think? Clay it? Or am I looking at getting the DA out? I really CBA to do that but will do if I have too...
Its most noticeable on the glass tbh.
Been using it in the usual way which is clean car, dry car and then apply panel at a time with dry mf and then buff to a shine. Lasts 2-3 months easily so only put it on maybe 3-4 times.
Now... stupid mistake really.
So I have noticed my MF cloths have not been washing as well and are now very repellent so I assume its the TW product sticking to the cloth. OK so in my genius brain what I will do is spray the turtle wax onto the car whilst its wet, then dry it off with the cloths and straight into the washing machine...
Dunno why I thought that was a good idea.
So the car has now got what looks like really bad water marks on it. (I used filtered water)
I think whats happened the MF did not dry 100% then the TW has set in the water if you see what I mean.
I have now washed the car again and the marks are still there....
What do we think? Clay it? Or am I looking at getting the DA out? I really CBA to do that but will do if I have too...
Its most noticeable on the glass tbh.
Summit_Detailing said:
Try some vinegar on a microfibre as you'll have that in the house (in theory), or some Autoglym Super Resin polish which is readily available on the High St if you don't have any knocking about.
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks I dont have any to hand no but I can get some and give it a try for sure. Cheers,
Chris
gweaver said:
You could also try applying some more turtle wax - the carrier might lift some of the excess product from the first application.
^ Try this.The "Professional use only" Autoglym Lifeshine instructions say that if you make an error/drop too much product on a panel, then the way to rectify it is to apply fresh product and wipe it off promptly.
gotoPzero said:
Washing machine, tech wash, 1 cap.
30 min 30 c
As I understand it Tech Wash is a product for washing waterproof clothing in, and is designed to revitalise water repellency, so yeah, your cloths will become repellent.30 min 30 c
Best to wash cloths in washing powder, without any softener additives, as softeners add repellency too.
I thought tech wash opened the fibres up to allow fuller cleaning - I might be wrong though.
Will try normal detergent and see if that helps. It will certainly be cheaper!
Some good news though, before I started I called a mate who is a detailer.
He said before I do anything just get a cloth and give the worst area a good buff. (after a thorough wash of course)
I did and to my surprise within 30 seconds the residue was coming off.
So I used this and a combination of the advice above to spray on some of the product to try and dissolve the residue.
I got 95% of it off and it looks much, much better thanks guys.
Next time I clean I will get the last few bits - mostly on the roof and some tight to get too bits of trim I had ran out of puff by that point.
Lesson learned... apply dry.... spray onto the cloth... remove as soon as its hazed!
Will try normal detergent and see if that helps. It will certainly be cheaper!
Some good news though, before I started I called a mate who is a detailer.
He said before I do anything just get a cloth and give the worst area a good buff. (after a thorough wash of course)
I did and to my surprise within 30 seconds the residue was coming off.
So I used this and a combination of the advice above to spray on some of the product to try and dissolve the residue.
I got 95% of it off and it looks much, much better thanks guys.
Next time I clean I will get the last few bits - mostly on the roof and some tight to get too bits of trim I had ran out of puff by that point.
Lesson learned... apply dry.... spray onto the cloth... remove as soon as its hazed!
[quote=gotoPzero]I thought tech wash opened the fibres up to allow fuller cleaning - I might be wrong though.
Will try normal detergent and see if that helps. It will certainly be cheaper!
/quote]
Just to double check, I assume by Tech Wash, you mean this stuff:
https://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/products/Cleaning/tec...
If so, then yes, it might open fibres to clean them, but it's also designed to keep them water repelllent and stop them absorbing water.
If it's something different, then just ignore me.
Will try normal detergent and see if that helps. It will certainly be cheaper!
/quote]
Just to double check, I assume by Tech Wash, you mean this stuff:
https://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/products/Cleaning/tec...
If so, then yes, it might open fibres to clean them, but it's also designed to keep them water repelllent and stop them absorbing water.
If it's something different, then just ignore me.
Tech wash is just a cleaner, its not got anything to add water resistance. Thats in the "TX Direct" bottle (it comes in 2 parts fwiw)
I was only using it as its technically meant for the opening up of fibres so I thought it would be good for MF as they are obviously designed that way.
I have since used regular non bio (very small qty) and 60c wash and most of them seem ok now. I think 30c and the mild tech wash was not helping. I now have a pile of good ones and some not so good ones, the not so good will be used for waxing wheels or A303ing engine bays.
I was only using it as its technically meant for the opening up of fibres so I thought it would be good for MF as they are obviously designed that way.
I have since used regular non bio (very small qty) and 60c wash and most of them seem ok now. I think 30c and the mild tech wash was not helping. I now have a pile of good ones and some not so good ones, the not so good will be used for waxing wheels or A303ing engine bays.
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