Subframe area surface rust
Discussion
doing something will make it last
clean it up best you can with a wire brush etc, then choose what you believe in , you can look at lanogaurd , dinitrol , bilt hamber corrolan etc
whatever you choose dont go thinking its fit and forget , wash it all down again in spring and touch up any fresh areas of rust
clean it up best you can with a wire brush etc, then choose what you believe in , you can look at lanogaurd , dinitrol , bilt hamber corrolan etc
whatever you choose dont go thinking its fit and forget , wash it all down again in spring and touch up any fresh areas of rust
Agree with rubbing/sanding down and treating the rust itself with whatever converter you prefer, then apply some decent paint over the rust converter.
Then i differ from others, in that i spray ACF50 (its expensive ie £70 for a 4 litre bottle which will last you years, other oil based products arer available) over the whole underside including springs and moving height sensors etc because the stuff creeps into the nooks and crannies, for ladder chassis i coat the whole exterior of the chassis in waterproof grease you could do the same with subframe...the MOT man loves me and will love you long time too
Agree about BIlt Hambers cavity wax, but mainly because the long probes that come with the aerosols are excellent, wouldn't take a genius bit of engineering to rig up one of those probes for spraying anything else liquid where it counts.
Some of the 4x4 owners have started using chain lube for underbody spraying.
The things about oily sprays, yes you should top up every year but literally it takes minutes, the added benefit of ACF50 etc is the stuff helps soak into bolt threads etc making them more likely not to sheer in place...however on the doownside working on the dirt and oil plasted underside isn't enjoyable.
You'll have to get a move on because they'll start salting soon, once you have the items you can do all of this over one long weekend if you have somewhere in the dry to work.
Then i differ from others, in that i spray ACF50 (its expensive ie £70 for a 4 litre bottle which will last you years, other oil based products arer available) over the whole underside including springs and moving height sensors etc because the stuff creeps into the nooks and crannies, for ladder chassis i coat the whole exterior of the chassis in waterproof grease you could do the same with subframe...the MOT man loves me and will love you long time too
Agree about BIlt Hambers cavity wax, but mainly because the long probes that come with the aerosols are excellent, wouldn't take a genius bit of engineering to rig up one of those probes for spraying anything else liquid where it counts.
Some of the 4x4 owners have started using chain lube for underbody spraying.
The things about oily sprays, yes you should top up every year but literally it takes minutes, the added benefit of ACF50 etc is the stuff helps soak into bolt threads etc making them more likely not to sheer in place...however on the doownside working on the dirt and oil plasted underside isn't enjoyable.
You'll have to get a move on because they'll start salting soon, once you have the items you can do all of this over one long weekend if you have somewhere in the dry to work.
I would also agree with the use of ACF 50. It may be overkill but, after applying the Dynax and letting it dry, I give pretty much everything a good spray with ACF 50. I use a 3 litre garden pump sprayer with a lance, and it only takes about 15 minutes. Make sure you put something under the car when doing all this, as the stuff drips for about a day and makes a bit of a mess.
Another tip is to get a cheap lawn sprayer (they're about a fiver), and attach it to a hose and then run it under the car periodically in the winter, to rinse off any salt.
Another tip is to get a cheap lawn sprayer (they're about a fiver), and attach it to a hose and then run it under the car periodically in the winter, to rinse off any salt.
steveo3002 said:
ive started to use acf50 this year....wouldnt it just wash off an axle thats driven over winter? i can see it would work in hidden /non exposed areas more so
Yes it will.What i do is apply marine grease by paint brush to the heavy wear areas (sills chassis and live axle on Prado) and then spray ACF50 over everything, the grease doesn't wash off so will last a couple of years before needing reapplying, the ACF stuff is so easy and quick to apply that its the matter of minutes to top it up once or even twice a year, inevitably it will wash off but the important nooks and crannies don't tend to see heavy water spray.
It sounds like a lot of work and yes the initial preparation on a older vehicle, especially ladder chassis 4x4's is very involved, but the annual top ups can be done quickly at service times.
Good point made about covering the ground whilst doing these jobs, luckily i have a very understanding wife who like me doesn't want to know any of these new nanny cars and knows what is involved in keeping older cars going for as long as possible.
When I rebuilt my suspension I came across some rusty areas on the chassis so this is what I did.
Thoroughly rub down with a wire brush.
If accessible use a drill with a wire brush attachment which is much quicker and more thorough. I prefer brass rather than steel as they kinder to the surface but just as effective.
I use brake cleaner to clean/degrease it afterward so as not to introduce water. This is followed by 2 coats of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (Kurust equivalent).
When cured it should go black
Next, I applied a couple of coats of zinc rich primer which I just got from Halfords - make sure it says corrosive inhibiting in the description. Bilt Hamber does one but it says it takes a week to cue which I wasn't prepared to do.
Next, a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber 2-part epoxy. I've used POR-15 in the past which looks like the same thing, however, you have to mix this before you use whereas the Por-15 - once you open the tin it always seems to go off afterward so works out very expensive.
Finally, I applied a coat of Halfords "truck bed liner" to act as a stoneguard.
Close up of the truck bed liner finish.
Some of the Bilt Hamber products I used.
The above is loosely based on the instructions on the epoxy mastic tin. Note the recommendation to use hydrate 80 and zinc-based primer BEFORE the mastic to lengthen the life.
IIRC I think I did apply some Bilt Hamber UB but the clear version. I wouldn't recommend just spraying wax without doing something else first however tempting a quick fix is. Do it properly, do it once :-)
Nearest I've got to when it was all finished :-)
Thoroughly rub down with a wire brush.
If accessible use a drill with a wire brush attachment which is much quicker and more thorough. I prefer brass rather than steel as they kinder to the surface but just as effective.
I use brake cleaner to clean/degrease it afterward so as not to introduce water. This is followed by 2 coats of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (Kurust equivalent).
When cured it should go black
Next, I applied a couple of coats of zinc rich primer which I just got from Halfords - make sure it says corrosive inhibiting in the description. Bilt Hamber does one but it says it takes a week to cue which I wasn't prepared to do.
Next, a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber 2-part epoxy. I've used POR-15 in the past which looks like the same thing, however, you have to mix this before you use whereas the Por-15 - once you open the tin it always seems to go off afterward so works out very expensive.
Finally, I applied a coat of Halfords "truck bed liner" to act as a stoneguard.
Close up of the truck bed liner finish.
Some of the Bilt Hamber products I used.
The above is loosely based on the instructions on the epoxy mastic tin. Note the recommendation to use hydrate 80 and zinc-based primer BEFORE the mastic to lengthen the life.
IIRC I think I did apply some Bilt Hamber UB but the clear version. I wouldn't recommend just spraying wax without doing something else first however tempting a quick fix is. Do it properly, do it once :-)
Nearest I've got to when it was all finished :-)
steveo3002 said:
ive started to use acf50 this year....wouldnt it just wash off an axle thats driven over winter? i can see it would work in hidden /non exposed areas more so
Ultimately yes, but it will probably last through a winter and, given that it's so quick and easy to apply, is better than doing nothing.348jeff said:
When I rebuilt my suspension I came across some rusty areas on the chassis so this is what I did.
Thoroughly rub down with a wire brush.
|https://thumbsnap.com/9XVxhaRf[/thumb]
If accessible use a drill with a wire brush attachment which is much quicker and more thorough. I prefer brass rather than steel as they kinder to the surface but just as effective.
|https://thumbsnap.com/V3yLDo3G[/thumb]
I use brake cleaner to clean/degrease it afterward so as not to introduce water. This is followed by 2 coats of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (Kurust equivalent).
When cured it should go black
Next, I applied a couple of coats of zinc rich primer which I just got from Halfords - make sure it says corrosive inhibiting in the description. Bilt Hamber does one but it says it takes a week to cue which I wasn't prepared to do.
Next, a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber 2-part epoxy. I've used POR-15 in the past which looks like the same thing, however, you have to mix this before you use whereas the Por-15 - once you open the tin it always seems to go off afterward so works out very expensive.
Finally, I applied a coat of Halfords "truck bed liner" to act as a stoneguard.
Close up of the truck bed liner finish.
Some of the Bilt Hamber products I used.
The above is loosely based on the instructions on the epoxy mastic tin. Note the recommendation to use hydrate 80 and zinc-based primer BEFORE the mastic to lengthen the life.
IIRC I think I did apply some Bilt Hamber UB but the clear version. I wouldn't recommend just spraying wax without doing something else first however tempting a quick fix is. Do it properly, do it once :-)
Nearest I've got to when it was all finished :-)
That looks really good. Did you spray on or brush on?Thoroughly rub down with a wire brush.
|https://thumbsnap.com/9XVxhaRf[/thumb]If accessible use a drill with a wire brush attachment which is much quicker and more thorough. I prefer brass rather than steel as they kinder to the surface but just as effective.
|https://thumbsnap.com/V3yLDo3G[/thumb]I use brake cleaner to clean/degrease it afterward so as not to introduce water. This is followed by 2 coats of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (Kurust equivalent).
When cured it should go black
Next, I applied a couple of coats of zinc rich primer which I just got from Halfords - make sure it says corrosive inhibiting in the description. Bilt Hamber does one but it says it takes a week to cue which I wasn't prepared to do.
Next, a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber 2-part epoxy. I've used POR-15 in the past which looks like the same thing, however, you have to mix this before you use whereas the Por-15 - once you open the tin it always seems to go off afterward so works out very expensive.
Finally, I applied a coat of Halfords "truck bed liner" to act as a stoneguard.
Close up of the truck bed liner finish.
Some of the Bilt Hamber products I used.
The above is loosely based on the instructions on the epoxy mastic tin. Note the recommendation to use hydrate 80 and zinc-based primer BEFORE the mastic to lengthen the life.
IIRC I think I did apply some Bilt Hamber UB but the clear version. I wouldn't recommend just spraying wax without doing something else first however tempting a quick fix is. Do it properly, do it once :-)
Nearest I've got to when it was all finished :-)
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