Ford Puma - Bleeding ABS pump
Discussion
The ABS light on my 2000 Ford Puma 1.7 comes on when warm. Fault code is C1095 (´pump motor circuit fault´). I have a spare ABS pump, but the (Fiesta) Haynes manual does not describe replacement and states that it should be ´entrusted to a Ford dealer´ as ´special electronic test equipment´ is needed to ´purge the unit of trapped air´.
Is this true for this generation of ABS pump, or can it in fact be bled the normal way?
Can I just switch the control box over? Though I´m not sure if this is possible without releasing all the hydraulic connections. I know from the replacement it simply unbolts and slides off from the back of the pump, but there´s no access in the car for this. I´ve tried plugging it in and the car starts normally (though of course the ABS light stays on continously).
And finally, does anyone know if can I change it without removing the brake servo / master cylinder? There appears to be just enough room with the battery tray removed, though this is a left-hand-drive model.
Thanks!
Is this true for this generation of ABS pump, or can it in fact be bled the normal way?
Can I just switch the control box over? Though I´m not sure if this is possible without releasing all the hydraulic connections. I know from the replacement it simply unbolts and slides off from the back of the pump, but there´s no access in the car for this. I´ve tried plugging it in and the car starts normally (though of course the ABS light stays on continously).
And finally, does anyone know if can I change it without removing the brake servo / master cylinder? There appears to be just enough room with the battery tray removed, though this is a left-hand-drive model.
Thanks!
Note that the stated fault is not 'pump fault' but 'pump circuit fault' so you may be wasting your time changing the pump, the fault may lie in the processor.
Far better to remove the unit and send it to one of the many places that test and repair these things... as a unit.
As far as bleeding is concerned, you may get away with it if you bleed the ABS unit (at each outlet port) first before moving on to each brake. It's messy but that's how we all used to do it before we had fancy diagnostics.
Far better to remove the unit and send it to one of the many places that test and repair these things... as a unit.
As far as bleeding is concerned, you may get away with it if you bleed the ABS unit (at each outlet port) first before moving on to each brake. It's messy but that's how we all used to do it before we had fancy diagnostics.
Thanks for your comments, and sorry for the delay in replying - I´ve just got round to taking a look at the problem again.
TwinKam - I´m pretty sure the problem is in the electronics, as it only happens when warm. I´ve just run a test with everything cold - I can hear the pump whirring and it passes without problem. To clarify your bleeding process, should I tighten the two unions from the master cylinder and bleed each wheel connection in turn? The problem here is that the wheel outlets are at the back and some of them are rather inaccessible with a normal spanner.
Megaflow - I used Forscan to diagnose the problem, but I can´t see an option to bleed the ABS pump under the ´tools´ tab. I don´t currently have the paid license, but I think the additional functions are offered in the free version then a warning comes up to buy the license if you want to use them.
TwinKam - I´m pretty sure the problem is in the electronics, as it only happens when warm. I´ve just run a test with everything cold - I can hear the pump whirring and it passes without problem. To clarify your bleeding process, should I tighten the two unions from the master cylinder and bleed each wheel connection in turn? The problem here is that the wheel outlets are at the back and some of them are rather inaccessible with a normal spanner.
Megaflow - I used Forscan to diagnose the problem, but I can´t see an option to bleed the ABS pump under the ´tools´ tab. I don´t currently have the paid license, but I think the additional functions are offered in the free version then a warning comes up to buy the license if you want to use them.
Having changed about a million ABS units in my time, here's my suggestion based on real world eperience.
1) If you can get good access to the ABS module, the electronic control unit can be unbolted by 4 bolts off the hydraulic system. This means you don't need to bleed the brake system, and can send the unit off for repair at one of the places on the internet. I've used a company called ECU testing with good results. It also means you can continue to use the car.
2) If this is not the case, just unbolt and disconnect the hydraulics, and do the above. The repair places never repair the hydraulics, just the electronic bits. Or if you wish, you can just buy a used unit - but make sure the long part number is correct.
3) When you put it back on, you can bleed it normally. The mis information about bleeding ABS units is unhelpful - they can be bled normally, or perhaps with a pressure bleeder, but using the usual techniques. They don't need fancy electronic software to do so (Though on some cars, software is needed to reset codes or adaption values).
TL:DR - Just bleed in normally.
1) If you can get good access to the ABS module, the electronic control unit can be unbolted by 4 bolts off the hydraulic system. This means you don't need to bleed the brake system, and can send the unit off for repair at one of the places on the internet. I've used a company called ECU testing with good results. It also means you can continue to use the car.
2) If this is not the case, just unbolt and disconnect the hydraulics, and do the above. The repair places never repair the hydraulics, just the electronic bits. Or if you wish, you can just buy a used unit - but make sure the long part number is correct.
3) When you put it back on, you can bleed it normally. The mis information about bleeding ABS units is unhelpful - they can be bled normally, or perhaps with a pressure bleeder, but using the usual techniques. They don't need fancy electronic software to do so (Though on some cars, software is needed to reset codes or adaption values).
TL:DR - Just bleed in normally.
Thanks, bearman68 - that is useful information. I´ve unbolted the black electronic control module from my used spare, but I don´t think there´s enough access to change it over without disconnecting the hydraulics. I would certainly take the broken original to ECU testing - they´re a local firm when I´m in the UK. I normally use a pressure-bleeder.
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