Tyre Tread Depth

[MakaveliX]

At which depth do you guys replace tyres ?
Front Nearside is 5.1mm
Front offside is 5.5mm
Rear nearside is 7.5mm ( this tyre was fitted a month ago )
Rear offside is 6mm

I know they don't need doing yet but I would like to know what you guys think ? Thanks



What about rotating tyres, is this mainly to get the most out of them or is it mainly for saving pennies by not having to replace them as often ?

Edited by MakaveliX on Wednesday 17th November 16:27

[ARHarh]

if it was winter \I would change at about 2.5mm if summer i would go to the minimum 1.6mm. Most drivers wait till you can see the cords, about -4mm.

[E-bmw]

Tyres start to become less good at resisting aquaplaning at around 3 or 4mm, much worse below 2mm, I normally work on somewhere between the 2 depending on time of year.

I also tend to rotate the better ones to the front when the difference is noticeable to even wear out & change all 4 together, or at least in pairs if wear isn't even enough.

[sean ie3]

I run them down to the depth indicators on the tyre. But seriously, having had a nasty aquaplaning incident 4mm seems a decent tread depth.

[MakaveliX]

The arrows i've pointed to is where to check the tread right ? I used a tyre depth checker tool like this..

Edited by MakaveliX on Wednesday 17th November 17:43

[Aunty Pasty]

No, that's just a molding line. The tread depth wear indicators are in the same groove but higher up in the picture.

[MakaveliX]

Aunty Pasty said:

No, that's just a molding line. The tread depth wear indicators are in the same groove but higher up in the picture.

Yeah I sorta meant that. I was originally checking in the outer grooves.

I use a depth tread checker which you place inside the tyre and push downwards

[Aunty Pasty]

To be safe you should check all the grooves. They should be even across the width unless you're deliberately running some sort of slammed setup with negative camber. But yes. Given your edit, those grooves are the correct place to use the gauge.

[E-bmw]

All grooves should be checked as there can & will be differences across the tyre width, for example you are starting to lose some of the secondary sipes on the left hand edge of the tyre in the pic you show.

You should NOT check them at the raised tyre wear indicators towards the top & bottom of your pic.

There should be (by law) a minimum of 1.6mm across 75% of the tyre width & visible tread across the remaining width.

[tapkaJohnD]

Checking across the tread can be a useful guide to the pressure you keep your tyres at.
All grooves start out the same depth, so shallower in the middle indicates that you should educe the pressure slightly, and vice versa. This can overwrite the published 'correct' pressures, as driving style will affect tyre heating and pressure in use.

JOhn

[Dave Brand]

tapkaJohnD said:

This can overwrite the published 'correct' pressures, as driving style will affect tyre heating and pressure in use.

Sometimes the "correct" pressure is not correct!

My DS3 was showing signs of overinflation on the fronts running at Citroën's recommended 2,4 bar. Dropping them to 2,2 bar not only evened out the wear, it improved steering feel. . . Michelin recommends 2,2.

[mmm-five]

Dave Brand said:

Sometimes the "correct" pressure is not correct!

My DS3 was showing signs of overinflation on the fronts running at Citroën's recommended 2,4 bar. Dropping them to 2,2 bar not only evened out the wear, it improved steering feel. . . Michelin recommends 2,2.

Maybe Citröen recommended the higher pressure for less rolling resistance and a slightly better fuel economy/emissions score...and don't care about comfort or handling, or the owner having to buy tyres more frequently?

[Pica-Pica]

For me, I do not rotate tyres (staggered widths anyway). I check the depths visually, comparing to the TWIs ((tread wear indicators), until they are approaching the TWIs, then check with a gauge on about three positions. If in the summer, I may run them down to 2mm, but would possibly change at 3mm if winter was approaching. I set my pressures for how the car feels best to me, which tends to be at or near the 5 person load, although I am usually the only person in the car.