Full lock clunking, brakes fail initially

Full lock clunking, brakes fail initially

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Discussion

butchpt6

Original Poster:

1 posts

59 months

Friday 28th August 2020
quotequote all
Hi

Peugeot 208 automatic.

Never had any issues.

Recently however when I reverse with near to or full lock or go forwards with near to or full lock I get 2 or 3 clunking sounds and then, when I apply the brakes they don't work initially unless I push the pedal all the way to the floor at least twice.

After this it is totally fine and runs as normal (not that I'm using it much now)

Took it to local ATS Garage who said they can't find anything wrong with the car, but had noticed the same issue.

Any ideas?

Megaflow

10,402 posts

240 months

Friday 28th August 2020
quotequote all
The fact the brakes do not work initially, but then do after 2 or 3 pumps suggests the brake pads have been pushed away from the brakes discs. You have to pump brakes exactly the same way when news ones have been fitted.

The knocking noise will be the sound of the brakes pads being pushed back. Initial reaction says they should be looking for buckled wheel hubs, worn wheel bearings, etc, but it would do it with no steering applied as well if they were faulty.

I'm only speculating, but I wonder if the drive shaft joints are worn and causing some odd wheel movement on full lock. They would also be tricky to pick up in a static inspection.

paintman

7,818 posts

205 months

Friday 28th August 2020
quotequote all
Sounds like the brake pads are being pushed back.
Usually caused by excessive movement of the brake disc.
Worn wheel bearings is a common cause.
Jack up, grip wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock & try to rock it.
IIRC the 208 doesn't use a taper roller wheel bearing & there should be NO detectable play.
(If you detect play get someone to apply the brakes. If the play remains then it's a suspension component & nothing to do with the brakes)
I can say from our 306 & 307s that the slightest play in the bearing results in noise.

ETA Duplicate the issue by driving on full lock then use the handbrake to stop, jack up & see if the pad to disc gap on one side is greater than the other. Would give you a better idea of which side is the problem.



Edited by paintman on Friday 28th August 18:51

E-bmw

11,098 posts

167 months

Saturday 29th August 2020
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As others have said, pretty much the only explanation for this is a failed wheel bearing/loose hub nut.

The fact that the untrained chimps at your local fast fit can't find the issue is only justification to ensure you never go there again.

Make no bones about it, the issue you currently have is potentially VERY dangerous & needs sorting immediately.