GT2 Geo Settings Explanation Please
Discussion
Hi, I have a few questions about geo settings as I'm pretty confused and would like to figure it out
I had my 997 GT2 setup at the 'Ring by Manthey Racing and it was an absolute beast.
I forget the settings but remember having -3.5 camber up front. Have since decided to go back to a less aggressive set up for daily driving so today went to my local geo:
Front Camber:2.10 Toe:0.03 Caster9.12
Rear Camber: 2.27 Toe:0.14
My confusion is that I also swapped to P4S tyres instead of the cup2s so not sure how much the handling change is due to this - I find the car lazy to turn in, but once it does get turning it changes angle quickly - which is good (especially when lifting off). In high speed turns the car feels like it doesn't want to turn and I end up going wide/slower as a result. Tomorrow I think ill go back and add more front -camber.
How does front toe affect handling? (I once used zero front toe and +15minutes rear which felt stable) Does 0.03 make a noticeable difference to what I described above?
Caster is not changed in this car? I think I had 9.20 before. When I read about other people settings caster is never mentioned
Does it make a difference with how much fuel in the tank when alignment is done
Most settings I read people run more -camber front than rear, I think my settings above are wrong. I generally find my fronts tyres last 1.5x longer than my rears but that was when the car was mostly track driven.
I had my 997 GT2 setup at the 'Ring by Manthey Racing and it was an absolute beast.
I forget the settings but remember having -3.5 camber up front. Have since decided to go back to a less aggressive set up for daily driving so today went to my local geo:
Front Camber:2.10 Toe:0.03 Caster9.12
Rear Camber: 2.27 Toe:0.14
My confusion is that I also swapped to P4S tyres instead of the cup2s so not sure how much the handling change is due to this - I find the car lazy to turn in, but once it does get turning it changes angle quickly - which is good (especially when lifting off). In high speed turns the car feels like it doesn't want to turn and I end up going wide/slower as a result. Tomorrow I think ill go back and add more front -camber.
How does front toe affect handling? (I once used zero front toe and +15minutes rear which felt stable) Does 0.03 make a noticeable difference to what I described above?
Caster is not changed in this car? I think I had 9.20 before. When I read about other people settings caster is never mentioned
Does it make a difference with how much fuel in the tank when alignment is done
Most settings I read people run more -camber front than rear, I think my settings above are wrong. I generally find my fronts tyres last 1.5x longer than my rears but that was when the car was mostly track driven.
Edited by stef1808 on Thursday 20th August 17:54
Hi,
You may have better luck posting this in the Porsche section but...
In general, toe In (is yours 3' total toe or 3' per side?) increases straight line stability (the wheels are scrubbing slightly and pulling the steering straight... if you see what I mean) at the expense of turn in (see "diagram" below for a simplistic, exaggerated example that ignores various other consideration like the ackermann effect)
/ \ = Toe in
\ / = Toe out
| | = Neutral Toe
Imagine a right hand turn
Toe In: / | (Inner wheel not turning as much as the outer and trying to push the car straight)
Toe Out: | / (inner wheel turning more than outer)
Neutral Toe: / / (both wheels pointing into the corner but inner wheel turning less than in the Toe Out example)
As you can see, with toe in you are kind of fighting the inner wheel to turn in whereas with neutral toe/toe out the wheel position is kind of helping you to turn.
In answer to your original question, I'm not super familiar with the GT2 geometry but your settings look fine for a road car (whether or not you need that much camber for a road car is debateable but it probably won’t cause the effect you are describing). If I had to guess, I’d say that you have just become used to the Manthey setup (which is no doubt incredible on track) and so a more road biased setup feels dull in comparison.
You may have better luck posting this in the Porsche section but...
In general, toe In (is yours 3' total toe or 3' per side?) increases straight line stability (the wheels are scrubbing slightly and pulling the steering straight... if you see what I mean) at the expense of turn in (see "diagram" below for a simplistic, exaggerated example that ignores various other consideration like the ackermann effect)
/ \ = Toe in
\ / = Toe out
| | = Neutral Toe
Imagine a right hand turn
Toe In: / | (Inner wheel not turning as much as the outer and trying to push the car straight)
Toe Out: | / (inner wheel turning more than outer)
Neutral Toe: / / (both wheels pointing into the corner but inner wheel turning less than in the Toe Out example)
As you can see, with toe in you are kind of fighting the inner wheel to turn in whereas with neutral toe/toe out the wheel position is kind of helping you to turn.
In answer to your original question, I'm not super familiar with the GT2 geometry but your settings look fine for a road car (whether or not you need that much camber for a road car is debateable but it probably won’t cause the effect you are describing). If I had to guess, I’d say that you have just become used to the Manthey setup (which is no doubt incredible on track) and so a more road biased setup feels dull in comparison.
Edited by LennyM1984 on Friday 21st August 12:59
Edited by LennyM1984 on Friday 21st August 13:04
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