Discussion
hi all,
For a very long time, I've been thinking (dreaming) about buying a car for the weekend to tinker with and have always been taken with the GT6. Money was never realyl there though and so I'd just look at piccys and think 'one day'. Well suffice to say the money is in the bank account and I've got SWMBO's permission as well.
I recently buoght the Haynes restoration manual that covered the GT6 and most of it didn't seem to relevant to me at this time. I've found TSSC but it looks like you need to join before being able to post in forums etc. So i thought I'd come here for some advice regarding ownership.
I'm know that I'm not looking for a nuts n bolts resto project as that simply would be beyond my talents. im' happy to get dirty, but am fairly limited in what I know how to do - oil changes and topping up fluids is fine, scared to death about changing brake pads
So do i fit the profile of a GT6 Owner ?
What is overdrive all about, is it a must have ?
Given the cars age - it must want to use leaded petrol ? Do I just buy an additive or is there a better solution ?
What sort of things do people do to their cars to modernise them for reliablity etc ? Better brakes (disks ?)
I'm hoping to get up to the TSSC show this weekend - and hopefully ask lots of questions there as well. any other suggestions for advice / resources ?
Cheers
For a very long time, I've been thinking (dreaming) about buying a car for the weekend to tinker with and have always been taken with the GT6. Money was never realyl there though and so I'd just look at piccys and think 'one day'. Well suffice to say the money is in the bank account and I've got SWMBO's permission as well.
I recently buoght the Haynes restoration manual that covered the GT6 and most of it didn't seem to relevant to me at this time. I've found TSSC but it looks like you need to join before being able to post in forums etc. So i thought I'd come here for some advice regarding ownership.
I'm know that I'm not looking for a nuts n bolts resto project as that simply would be beyond my talents. im' happy to get dirty, but am fairly limited in what I know how to do - oil changes and topping up fluids is fine, scared to death about changing brake pads
So do i fit the profile of a GT6 Owner ?
What is overdrive all about, is it a must have ?
Given the cars age - it must want to use leaded petrol ? Do I just buy an additive or is there a better solution ?
What sort of things do people do to their cars to modernise them for reliablity etc ? Better brakes (disks ?)
I'm hoping to get up to the TSSC show this weekend - and hopefully ask lots of questions there as well. any other suggestions for advice / resources ?
Cheers
Hi Paul,
The overdrive adds an extra ratio onto third and forth gears by the flick of a switch.
On the GT6 and Vitesse when a overdrive gearbox is fitted, the differential is changed also, so top gear on a normal gearbox has the same engine rpm to road speed as a car with a overdrive gearbox. The advantage comes more from the closer gear ratios for off the line acceleration. So no, it's really worth it unless you go for a different ratio in the differential, I've gone for a Spitfire ratio as it improves the rpm to road speed ratio.
Some people reckon you'd be just as well to carry on putting unleaded petrol in, have a look http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/infodat...
Brakes can be maintained by fitting good pads, not un-marked boxes, preferably Mintex and braided hoses, though if you are not used to un-servo'd brakes, you may find them heavy. Front brakes are discs as standard, really wouldn't bother trying to fit rear disks unless you do a lot of performance improvements first.
Yes, you need to be a member to post on the TSSC message board, but I think Club Triumph still has an open forum.
The overdrive adds an extra ratio onto third and forth gears by the flick of a switch.
On the GT6 and Vitesse when a overdrive gearbox is fitted, the differential is changed also, so top gear on a normal gearbox has the same engine rpm to road speed as a car with a overdrive gearbox. The advantage comes more from the closer gear ratios for off the line acceleration. So no, it's really worth it unless you go for a different ratio in the differential, I've gone for a Spitfire ratio as it improves the rpm to road speed ratio.
Some people reckon you'd be just as well to carry on putting unleaded petrol in, have a look http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/infodat...
Brakes can be maintained by fitting good pads, not un-marked boxes, preferably Mintex and braided hoses, though if you are not used to un-servo'd brakes, you may find them heavy. Front brakes are discs as standard, really wouldn't bother trying to fit rear disks unless you do a lot of performance improvements first.
Yes, you need to be a member to post on the TSSC message board, but I think Club Triumph still has an open forum.
Edited by SpitBang on Friday 20th August 11:58
I owned a GT6 for 4 years in the late 90s early naughties. Beautiful little cars, and, for the amateur mechanic they are a dream to work on. Mine was a series 3 with Rotoflex rear suspension, overdrive, twin SU HS4 (or was it HS6?- can't remember)Sports exhaust had also been fitted. It had a fair bit of work done on it and was basically a decent little car that I pampered to make more 'perfect'. GT6 will come with 2 litre engines. Some, like mine, have been modified with a TR6 short block giving 2.5 litres. Power on mine may have been around 130bhp, but that is a guess.
I replaced rear dampers and rear spring - dampers were super cheap and the transverse spring wasn't expensive either. Not a great deal of other work had to be undertook. I replaced the standard wheels with minilites and sold the car for £3000 (bought for £2400).
One problem I had was the rooff where it meets the windscreen. It rusts here on all GT6 so have a good look both in top of the roof and under the lip where the roof meets the screen.
They can also lean down on one side. Measure the height of the rear wheelarches from the ground. I think this might be something to do with the way the body sits on the separate chassis - worn bushes?.
Check the front of the 2 chassis rails for warped metal which might indicate a collision.
If you don't know your way around cars to well, get an AA or RAC guy to check it. I don't think they cost too much (compared to how much you might have to shell out if you buy a lemon) for piece of mind.
I replaced rear dampers and rear spring - dampers were super cheap and the transverse spring wasn't expensive either. Not a great deal of other work had to be undertook. I replaced the standard wheels with minilites and sold the car for £3000 (bought for £2400).
One problem I had was the rooff where it meets the windscreen. It rusts here on all GT6 so have a good look both in top of the roof and under the lip where the roof meets the screen.
They can also lean down on one side. Measure the height of the rear wheelarches from the ground. I think this might be something to do with the way the body sits on the separate chassis - worn bushes?.
Check the front of the 2 chassis rails for warped metal which might indicate a collision.
If you don't know your way around cars to well, get an AA or RAC guy to check it. I don't think they cost too much (compared to how much you might have to shell out if you buy a lemon) for piece of mind.
You will have no real problems with a gt6 everything is available and they are easy to fix. the biggest issue you will have with any old car is recomisioning it when you buy it, yeah they have MOT and tax etc, but in my experience classic cars get sold when they have not been used for a long while. For instance I have just bought a vitesse which had not been used for 2 years, it had a full mot and tax, it had even clocked up 50 miles since the MOT. anyway 3 weeks on the fuel tank has sprung a leak, the carbs have needed a rebuild, the electrics have failed and needed the fuse box cleaning. I have serviced it. It still needs a new steering rack gaiter and a new clutch, ok I knew the clutch was on its last legs when I bought it. these are typical issues with cars which have stood around for a while. be prepared if you do buy one to spend a lot of time fiddling with it till you get it sorted.
12 years ago I had very similar issues with a morris minor, once I got it sorted it has been so easy to live with, it doesn't do millions of miles about 3000 a year. but this year all it has needed so far is an oil change and 2 new suspension buhes. these days it gets serviced once a year and used whenever it is needed.
I built a GT6 from boxes of bits about 4 years ago. it was a very nice car. very east to live with.
12 years ago I had very similar issues with a morris minor, once I got it sorted it has been so easy to live with, it doesn't do millions of miles about 3000 a year. but this year all it has needed so far is an oil change and 2 new suspension buhes. these days it gets serviced once a year and used whenever it is needed.
I built a GT6 from boxes of bits about 4 years ago. it was a very nice car. very east to live with.
I'm sure you'd enjoy a GT6.
In terms of buying, I'd advise two things:
1. Buy principally on body / chassis condition. Mechanicals are cheap and simple, bodywork will cost you a lot more.
2. Buy one with overdrive, whilst the non-OD cars did have a slightly longer diff ratio to compensate, they still run out of steam too early and are hard work at motorway / A road speeds. On top of this, the 3.28 diff ratio is one of the weakest CSP sets Triumph fitted and it is very difficult to find a replacement for. A 3.63 with OD is much more flexible, reliable and pleasant to use.
In terms of buying, I'd advise two things:
1. Buy principally on body / chassis condition. Mechanicals are cheap and simple, bodywork will cost you a lot more.
2. Buy one with overdrive, whilst the non-OD cars did have a slightly longer diff ratio to compensate, they still run out of steam too early and are hard work at motorway / A road speeds. On top of this, the 3.28 diff ratio is one of the weakest CSP sets Triumph fitted and it is very difficult to find a replacement for. A 3.63 with OD is much more flexible, reliable and pleasant to use.
I owned a Gt6 for over a year and used it as my every day car.. most enjoyable car I've ever owned. Go for a MkIII in my opinion. Pre 1972 to get tax-exempt status although non tax-exempt versions are quite rare as the Gt6 was on its way out by that point. And try get one that has recently had major work done on a) the sills and b) the engine. These will be your 2 main problem areas. Mine had a webasto sunroof which made a huge difference.. it gets hot in there in the summer!
Also, in many ways a car that someone has been running everyday/ a few times a week will be much more reliable than something which was only taken out once a month and ran for a few miles, even if the latter looks in better nick. Don't know how to put my point across.. if a car has been used frequently, all the niggles / problem areas will have been ironed out, even if on the surface it doesn't look as good as the other one.
I too owned the Hayes manual before the car. Then bought the car. Then joined TSSC.. if you look farrrrr into the GT6 forum you'd probably even find my threads, was quite active. Don't remember the username though :/
The car will teach you all the basics of how cars operate, and before long you'll be able to replace a wheel bearing on the side of the M1 (yes, i did.. and yes, it was raining).
Get yourself a) a small tool kit with a socket wrench and sockets, scredriver etc, some WD40, a car jack, a full jerry can, plenty of spare fuses, a 2litre bottle of tap water and ALWAYS keep these in the boot (there's even a perfect place for all these things to hide away smartly between the spare wheel and the boot floor)!
... the reason I say this, is because I often broke down. However, with only the said tools and bits, I always managed to get going again.
Lastly, just a point to make out... hope you're not VERY tall?!? I'm just under 6ft2 and didn't REALLY fit.. in fact I changed the seats for slim style Caterham bucket seats which ACTUALLY hold you in the corners, unlike the originals!
Feel free to take a look at everything I did to my gt6 here http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/60530529
... they are detailed photos as they were taken for the person who I sold the car to (he bought it without coming to see it!)
EDIT: The walnut dashboard you can see in the linked album ISN'T standard.. it took some work to fit! Just so you don't feel let down when you go view one. Same goes for the SU carburettors, the seats, the front grille, the front spots, the radio, the harnesses etc!
Also, in many ways a car that someone has been running everyday/ a few times a week will be much more reliable than something which was only taken out once a month and ran for a few miles, even if the latter looks in better nick. Don't know how to put my point across.. if a car has been used frequently, all the niggles / problem areas will have been ironed out, even if on the surface it doesn't look as good as the other one.
I too owned the Hayes manual before the car. Then bought the car. Then joined TSSC.. if you look farrrrr into the GT6 forum you'd probably even find my threads, was quite active. Don't remember the username though :/
The car will teach you all the basics of how cars operate, and before long you'll be able to replace a wheel bearing on the side of the M1 (yes, i did.. and yes, it was raining).
Get yourself a) a small tool kit with a socket wrench and sockets, scredriver etc, some WD40, a car jack, a full jerry can, plenty of spare fuses, a 2litre bottle of tap water and ALWAYS keep these in the boot (there's even a perfect place for all these things to hide away smartly between the spare wheel and the boot floor)!
... the reason I say this, is because I often broke down. However, with only the said tools and bits, I always managed to get going again.
Lastly, just a point to make out... hope you're not VERY tall?!? I'm just under 6ft2 and didn't REALLY fit.. in fact I changed the seats for slim style Caterham bucket seats which ACTUALLY hold you in the corners, unlike the originals!
Feel free to take a look at everything I did to my gt6 here http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/60530529
... they are detailed photos as they were taken for the person who I sold the car to (he bought it without coming to see it!)
EDIT: The walnut dashboard you can see in the linked album ISN'T standard.. it took some work to fit! Just so you don't feel let down when you go view one. Same goes for the SU carburettors, the seats, the front grille, the front spots, the radio, the harnesses etc!
Edited by AOK on Tuesday 24th August 01:18
Hi, bought a spitfire for my first classic, loved it.
Have you considered an MGB GT? Obvious rival and a bit cheaper, engine no where near as nice though!
As long as you are willing to learn, a GT6 is a good car to cut your teeth on mechanically. You do really need to have someone who knows what they are looking at with you when you buy otherwise you can end up paying lots of money for something that isn't really right. I don't mean to scare you off but I have seen cars which look quite nice and shiny but are actually bent. At the very least make sure you look at a few before you buy, you'll get a feel for nice ones.
The sagging thing is due to the rear leaf spring getting weak, the car will sag on the drivers side. Not the hardest thing in the world to fix, and not expensive either. It wouldn't bother me if I was buying a car. You need to focus on the important things; chassis, gearbox etc.
Pay attention to the chassis (check for rust, and that it's straight) and the body (the panel gaps should be fairly even, paint needs to be good, not too much filler etc).
These guys: http://www.jyclassics.co.uk/index.htm are very helpful, if you are anywhere near by. You won't get a bargain but also you won't end up spending £4k on a rusty death trap.
This: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Truimph-Spitfire-GT6-Compl... is a good book, and will help you decide which model you want.
Buying a GT6 (or any other classic really) is a lot of work (and there will be days you just want to sell the car) but it's well worth it.
Good luck, let us know how you get on!
ETA: Some GT6's had servo assisted brakes, with those and standard fit front discs on a light car the brakes are as good as any other car (ABS aside), it's just they will feel different to the brakes on a modern, and might need a bit more pressure but they will stop the car just as well. In my experience a lot of these cars have poor brakes, people seem to accept it because 'old cars have rubbish brakes' when actually it's 'cos the rear brakes are out of adjustment or the master cylinder is leaking or something. My preference is for non-servo brakes as you get a much nicer feel and they are more progressive but most people would disagree with that. As for overdrive, again it's personal preference but I wouldn't buy a GT6 without one, clicking in and out of overdrive on a twisty road is great fun.
Have you considered an MGB GT? Obvious rival and a bit cheaper, engine no where near as nice though!
As long as you are willing to learn, a GT6 is a good car to cut your teeth on mechanically. You do really need to have someone who knows what they are looking at with you when you buy otherwise you can end up paying lots of money for something that isn't really right. I don't mean to scare you off but I have seen cars which look quite nice and shiny but are actually bent. At the very least make sure you look at a few before you buy, you'll get a feel for nice ones.
The sagging thing is due to the rear leaf spring getting weak, the car will sag on the drivers side. Not the hardest thing in the world to fix, and not expensive either. It wouldn't bother me if I was buying a car. You need to focus on the important things; chassis, gearbox etc.
Pay attention to the chassis (check for rust, and that it's straight) and the body (the panel gaps should be fairly even, paint needs to be good, not too much filler etc).
These guys: http://www.jyclassics.co.uk/index.htm are very helpful, if you are anywhere near by. You won't get a bargain but also you won't end up spending £4k on a rusty death trap.
This: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Truimph-Spitfire-GT6-Compl... is a good book, and will help you decide which model you want.
Buying a GT6 (or any other classic really) is a lot of work (and there will be days you just want to sell the car) but it's well worth it.
Good luck, let us know how you get on!
ETA: Some GT6's had servo assisted brakes, with those and standard fit front discs on a light car the brakes are as good as any other car (ABS aside), it's just they will feel different to the brakes on a modern, and might need a bit more pressure but they will stop the car just as well. In my experience a lot of these cars have poor brakes, people seem to accept it because 'old cars have rubbish brakes' when actually it's 'cos the rear brakes are out of adjustment or the master cylinder is leaking or something. My preference is for non-servo brakes as you get a much nicer feel and they are more progressive but most people would disagree with that. As for overdrive, again it's personal preference but I wouldn't buy a GT6 without one, clicking in and out of overdrive on a twisty road is great fun.
Edited by varsas on Tuesday 24th August 08:57
thanks for all the advice guys ... am defintly in the market now. I've decided on a GT6 Mk11 with O/D.
Just got to try and find one now ! Happy to be patient untill the right one comes along. In the meantime I'll keep reading / researching and trying to get to a few shows to spot em !
cheers !
Just got to try and find one now ! Happy to be patient untill the right one comes along. In the meantime I'll keep reading / researching and trying to get to a few shows to spot em !
cheers !
i imagine you mean FIXED SPRING, swing spring and rotoflex, you wont get rotoflex on a mk2 and swing spring is fine if you lower it down and just dont lift off mid corner like any other old RWD car i guess! I have swing spring on my Spit6, lowered 1/2" (could go lower tbh) with 14" revoloutions on and on recent outings you would have to be driving like a totaly idiot to lose the back end, just make sure you have decent rubber!
ALL of the Mk2's were rotoflex - good choice IMHO - a classic shape with the rotoflex and OD. Good luck in your search.
FYI, the Mk1s were all fixed spring, MK2s were all rotoflex and early MK3s were rotoflex before Leyland had to save some money and put the swing spring off the contemporary Spit MK4 on there.
FYI, the Mk1s were all fixed spring, MK2s were all rotoflex and early MK3s were rotoflex before Leyland had to save some money and put the swing spring off the contemporary Spit MK4 on there.
JonyPI said:
i imagine you mean FIXED SPRING, swing spring and rotoflex, you wont get rotoflex on a mk2 and swing spring is fine if you lower it down and just dont lift off mid corner like any other old RWD car i guess! I have swing spring on my Spit6, lowered 1/2" (could go lower tbh) with 14" revoloutions on and on recent outings you would have to be driving like a totaly idiot to lose the back end, just make sure you have decent rubber!
Sorry to dig out this topic but I am in the same situation as a newbie.
I am now looking for buying a GT6 (mkII or mkIII) and I just missed the nice blue one in the ads.
The purple one looks good for the body but the state of the engine bay is not very attractive : no oil breather on the rocker cover, missing cap, ... What do you think about this car ?
Thank you
I am now looking for buying a GT6 (mkII or mkIII) and I just missed the nice blue one in the ads.
The purple one looks good for the body but the state of the engine bay is not very attractive : no oil breather on the rocker cover, missing cap, ... What do you think about this car ?
Thank you
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