Anyone in W.Yorks who is an expert on Sprint engines? Help!
Discussion
I was wondering if there was anyone near Me who is an expert on Dolomite Sprint engines who could offer Me some advice or help Me with my problem.
My Dolomite Sprint runs at over 3/4 on the temp gauge. This is the list of whats been done & checked :
1)Headgasket replaced, head skimmed & pressure tested. All ok, not losing any water or water getting into oil etc.
2)Radiator has been flushed through and had no nasty deposits in, nice clean water good flow. Refilled with the correct mix of antifreeze plus a bottle of 'water wetter super coolant'.
3) I have tried running without the thermostat, still the same so its not the stat.
4) Replaced temperature sender.
5) Replaced voltage regulator (that controls gauge readings) New one I put on worked fine on a spares car.
6) Replaced gauge.
7) New 12 Vane water pump & correct water pump housing.
8) Checked that water is flowing through heater matrix. Its not blocked.
Think thats it so as you can see I have done more or less everything.
Ok, the last thing I am faced with is that the car splutters when cold, ie sounds like its firing on 2 cylinders & backfires. It appears to be running really lean and also I suspect that the ignition timing is a mile out.
Question 1 - would this cause the engine to run to over 3/4 on the temp gauge if the carbs & timing are a mile out?
Question 2 - Is there anyone near Huddersfield that would be able to help Me check & set the timing up and also get the carb mixtures correct & the balancing (twin SU's).
I'm not sure how to do these jobs myself thats why I'm asking for help. Also most local garages these days don't know much about old cars. Is there a garage near Me that does? Are there any individuals who can to come over & help. I'm willing to pay I dont expect freebies. I just want to get the car sorted & get out and enjoy it. Furthest I have driven it is a mile, thats the point when the gauge reaches 3/4 so I come home.
Cheers!
My Dolomite Sprint runs at over 3/4 on the temp gauge. This is the list of whats been done & checked :
1)Headgasket replaced, head skimmed & pressure tested. All ok, not losing any water or water getting into oil etc.
2)Radiator has been flushed through and had no nasty deposits in, nice clean water good flow. Refilled with the correct mix of antifreeze plus a bottle of 'water wetter super coolant'.
3) I have tried running without the thermostat, still the same so its not the stat.
4) Replaced temperature sender.
5) Replaced voltage regulator (that controls gauge readings) New one I put on worked fine on a spares car.
6) Replaced gauge.
7) New 12 Vane water pump & correct water pump housing.
8) Checked that water is flowing through heater matrix. Its not blocked.
Think thats it so as you can see I have done more or less everything.
Ok, the last thing I am faced with is that the car splutters when cold, ie sounds like its firing on 2 cylinders & backfires. It appears to be running really lean and also I suspect that the ignition timing is a mile out.
Question 1 - would this cause the engine to run to over 3/4 on the temp gauge if the carbs & timing are a mile out?
Question 2 - Is there anyone near Huddersfield that would be able to help Me check & set the timing up and also get the carb mixtures correct & the balancing (twin SU's).
I'm not sure how to do these jobs myself thats why I'm asking for help. Also most local garages these days don't know much about old cars. Is there a garage near Me that does? Are there any individuals who can to come over & help. I'm willing to pay I dont expect freebies. I just want to get the car sorted & get out and enjoy it. Furthest I have driven it is a mile, thats the point when the gauge reaches 3/4 so I come home.
Cheers!
If it's running lean it will run hot.
If the timings out it will run hot.
You are also risking causing massive and expensive damage to the engine! Lean running causes heat which holes pistons and burns valves, pre detonation holes pistons.
My simple advice is richen the mixture up quarter of a turn at a time till things improve but first adjust the timing till the engine sounds much sweeter. It will be rough but a hell of a lot better than it currently sounds.
There should be loads of Triumph people round you, but if you get stuck I'm back in E.Yorks for a month or 2 so if your over this way I can sort it out for you for a bottle of wine.
If the timings out it will run hot.
You are also risking causing massive and expensive damage to the engine! Lean running causes heat which holes pistons and burns valves, pre detonation holes pistons.
My simple advice is richen the mixture up quarter of a turn at a time till things improve but first adjust the timing till the engine sounds much sweeter. It will be rough but a hell of a lot better than it currently sounds.
There should be loads of Triumph people round you, but if you get stuck I'm back in E.Yorks for a month or 2 so if your over this way I can sort it out for you for a bottle of wine.
If you get any haynes manual for a period BL engine with twin SUs then it will take you through how to set them up. You can set the timing up pretty well just by ear truth be told.
If your settings are as far out as it sounds setting up by ear will be a lot better than currently experienced.
If your settings are as far out as it sounds setting up by ear will be a lot better than currently experienced.
The senders on '70s cars are very simple, basic devices so first make sure you actually have a problem.
Start removing the temp. sender and rigging it up in the kitchen over a pan of boiling water with the engine side in the water.
Leave it there for a few minutes to really get stable at 100[sup]o[/sup]C then, using thick gloves/etc take it out to the car, screw in or otherwise earth the sender body and connect the wire. Turn the ignition on and see where the needle points for 100%.
Depending on age/quality/etc 100[sup]o[/sup]C corresponds to anywhere on the gauge and if yours corresponds to 1/2 or higher you probably don't have a problem and the engine is actually running at 100-110[sup]o[/sup]C.
Start removing the temp. sender and rigging it up in the kitchen over a pan of boiling water with the engine side in the water.
Leave it there for a few minutes to really get stable at 100[sup]o[/sup]C then, using thick gloves/etc take it out to the car, screw in or otherwise earth the sender body and connect the wire. Turn the ignition on and see where the needle points for 100%.
Depending on age/quality/etc 100[sup]o[/sup]C corresponds to anywhere on the gauge and if yours corresponds to 1/2 or higher you probably don't have a problem and the engine is actually running at 100-110[sup]o[/sup]C.
madtriumphman said:
Hi,
I have replaced the sender with a brand new one and it still reads high. Ive changed everything, sender, voltage stabiliser & gauge.
Thanks
G
I'd still calibrate it as being new doesn't always mean better/correct and you still don't have any real idea what temperature your car is actually running at.I have replaced the sender with a brand new one and it still reads high. Ive changed everything, sender, voltage stabiliser & gauge.
Thanks
G
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