Is there much point to balancing 1500
Discussion
My 1500 hillclimb / sprint car developed a severe smoking habit so I am considering options. The engine's had 3 hard seasons so I guess it deserves rebuild or replacement.
I haven't had a chance to delve into the specific causes yet (Sunday was last event) but lets assume it is fairly worn all over.
I run in a standard class which means that I can't change anything internally. Externally I've got a four branch, intake trumpets, carefully set-up on RR timing and jets and an extra oil feed to the head. This added up to 75bhp at 5200rpm (rear wheels). I had planned to fit electronic ignition but the money I had set asside may now go on the repairs...
Within the class I am allowed to balance the bottom end, clean the head with bead blasting and rebore to maximum oversize.
My question: should I bother with anything other than an absolutely standard rebuild? What are the likely costs and benefits? I may move up one class in the future - basically allowing gas flow and mild cam upgrade. Might this make balancing more important?
Thanks
I haven't had a chance to delve into the specific causes yet (Sunday was last event) but lets assume it is fairly worn all over.
I run in a standard class which means that I can't change anything internally. Externally I've got a four branch, intake trumpets, carefully set-up on RR timing and jets and an extra oil feed to the head. This added up to 75bhp at 5200rpm (rear wheels). I had planned to fit electronic ignition but the money I had set asside may now go on the repairs...
Within the class I am allowed to balance the bottom end, clean the head with bead blasting and rebore to maximum oversize.
My question: should I bother with anything other than an absolutely standard rebuild? What are the likely costs and benefits? I may move up one class in the future - basically allowing gas flow and mild cam upgrade. Might this make balancing more important?
Thanks
Hi,
The following is an excerpt taken from an article I wrote for the MGOC regarding the Midget 1500 engine but it applies equally to the Spitfire 1500:
In 1968 Triumph became part of BLMC who were intent on cost saving such that in 1970 a major revision was made to the engine with the release of the Spitfire MkIV. It is this revision that would become the Achilles Heel of the later engines. The change centred primarily around the crankshaft. In order to rationalise machining operations the journal diameters were increased to the same size as those on the 6-cylinder engine (as fitted to the Vitesse, GT6 and TR5/6). Journal diameters increased from 2.0005” - 2.0010” to 2.3115” - 2.2120” (main bearing journals) and from 1.625” - 1.6255” to 1.875” - 1.8755” (crankpin journals). In doing so this made the crankshaft heavier with larger diameter but narrower bearings. Thus the later 1296cc crankshafts have more bearing drag than the early ‘small bearing’ cranks and, with the increased weight, take more power to accelerate.
Unfortunately BLMC compounded this by downgrading the steel used for the crank from EN40B to the far inferior EN16U. Given that the engine is a 3-main bearing design, the use of a heavier crank in an inferior material means that crankshaft flex starts to become a problem, hence the late 1296cc and all 1493cc engines are referred to as ‘floppy crank motors’. At some stage in the design of the engine (from 1296cc engine number FH25001E and all 1493cc engines) the bores were also recessed which was said to improve the sealing of the cylinder head gasket (even though earlier units had not had a problem). This would limit the safe over boring of the engine to a mere 20thou and, in fact can cause problems with detonation in tuned motors. If overboring greater than 20thou I deck the block flat and use the earlier 1296cc head gasket. Doing this will also mean that the pistons will need to be decked so as to give 20 – 25 thou clearance beneath the head gasket.
In 1972 the engine was again increased in size by stroking it to 87.5mm giving 1493cc. By this stage the engine really was at the limit of what could be done to it and the fact that it had a ‘floppy’ crank coupled with such a long stroke meant that failures would be commonplace unless certain aspects of the design are addressed. Fundamentally, for the reasons discussed earlier, crankshaft flex on the 1493cc motor is a major concern since it can rapidly lead to the oil overheating causing oil film breakdown with concomitant damage. Given that the motor is a 3-main bearing design, aside from the stroked crankshaft being poorly supported, it is the centre main bearing that feeds numbers 2 and 3 big ends. Any form of oil film breakdown will rapidly lead to wear of these bearings and, if not caught soon enough, a connecting rod (usually number 3) making a bid for freedom at high speed through the side of the crankcase. This is one of the reasons why the 1493cc unit cannot be revved like its smaller brethren.
However these failings can be addressed so as to produce a reliable unit with longevity between rebuilds. Primarily it is the oil system that should be sorted out, since this is at the heart of the problems. Fundamentally it is high oil temperature leading to oil film breakdown that kills Triumph 1500 engines. For this reason it is essential that an oil cooler be fitted; a 13 row by 235mm cooler is perfectly adequate (although for 'hard' use a 16 row is better).
In terms of the oil being used you must use a good 20/50 and change it yearly or every 6000 miles (whichever comes first), my personal choice is for Valvoline VR1 20/50 Racing. If the engine is in any state of tune (Stage one upwards) then use a 20/60 such as Penrite HPR 30.
Having sorted the oil and oil cooling, then modifications can be made to the oil system to increase its efficiency. Firstly it is essential to use the later type oil pump. This has an angled pick up that sits lower in the sump and better resists oil surge (if surge becomes a problem such as on Track Days then a single longitudinal baffle can be brazed into the sump, or better still a ‘Windage Tray’). Additionally care should be taken to reduce the endfloat on the pump to the minimum quoted figures:
Inner Rotor endfloat – 0.0004”
Outer Rotor endfloat – 0.0004”
Rotor Lobe clearance – 0.010”
Outer Rotor-to-Body clearance 0.008”
Given that the centre main bearing feeds numbers 2 and 3 big ends, then an increase in flow to here is beneficial. The gallery can be opened out to 5/16” (7.9mm), to do this requires the removal of the distributor driveshaft bush and care should be taken upon reassembly to attain the correct distributor endfloat.
While the crankshaft is not particularly well supported, the use of main cap straps or even steel main caps is not required on a road going motor. What should be done however, is to bottom tap the main bolt holes and fit longer high tensile bolts (3.25” UHL), my preference being for socket headed bolts (with case hardened washers) which can be wire locked in place (in addition to using loctite). At the same time as addressing the mains, the big ends should be fitted with high tensile bolts (the originals should never be re-used). Given the amount of ‘monkey metal’ fasteners being supplied these days, I suggest you use ARP bolts (which are stronger than the con rods) – a bit of a ‘no brainer’ really. Alternatively Ford Sierra Cosworth big end bolts can be used since they are a straight swap. Similarly I use ARP head studs and flywheel bolts.
The crankshaft / flywheel / front pulley / clutch MUST be accurately balanced to help cut down on vibrations inducing crank flex and a lightened flywheel is also of help here. Additionally I lighten the rods by polishing them down the beam (as well as removing the ‘cup’ at the little end). I then balance them end-to-end and overall to within 0.1g. If you are worried about con rod strength and unwilling to shell out ££££ on H-Section forged rods then use the early TR5 rods since they are basically the same albeit stronger and lack the hole in the shank above the big end.
With respect to bearings, ideally a lead-indium type should be used since these will better resist the loads encountered than will reticular tin ones. Unfortunately Vandervell VP2 are no longer available for this engine. This leads us to some choices:
For ‘hard’ use it is possible to fit MGB big end bearings (original part no. AEB4512) at 0.010” undersize (for a standard crank). The crankshaft should be ground to 1.8665” – 1.867 (ie 8.5 thou). The outsize edge of the locating tang on the bearings needs to be filed down slightly to locate them correctly in the con rods. Additionally, since these bearings are wider than the originals, the fillet radius of the journals must be checked after grinding and modified as necessary.
Having done this, while Tri-Metal VP2 bearings are unavailable, the alternatives are:
AE GS2541LC, which is a Tri-Metal, sintered lead-copper bearing. This is essentially the same bearing as the Glacier Vandervell VPR91173LC but which uses a lead/tin/copper overlay as opposed to the lead indium in the old VP2 compound.
This is a high quality bearing piece able to withstand moderate to high loads
A better alternative is the Clevite 77 compound (part no. CB792P), which is made in the USA. This is another Tri-Metal design using a lead/tin/copper overlay, the difference being that it uses a cast copper/lead material (similar to the old VP2) and, hence, is about 20% - 30% tougher in its ability to withstand loads than is the GS2541LC.
A final alternative is to use ACL Duraglide 780 Tri-Metal heavy duty bearings. These are essentially similar to the Clevite design.
If you don’t wish to go to the effort of fitting MGB bearings, and for a car that will see only normal / occasional track day use the expense is probably not worthwhile, then Tri-Metal bearings to fit the big ends are available from King (part no. CR4403AM).
With regards to the main bearings having a VP2 like compound isn’t as critical however I still believe the best bearings available should be fitted. To this end I would suggest using King part no. MB341AM.
Another worthwhile modification is to source an earlier style ‘small bearing’ camshaft and insert cam bearings into the block since in the 1493cc motor the cam runs direct in the block with no bearings.
With regard to the oil feed to the rocker shaft assembly, then there are a number of companies that will sell you an external rocker feed kit. Unfortunately all these kits are fundamentally flawed as they come and lack adequate instructions as to their fitting.
EVERY kit I have seen uses a –3 hose with a banjo fitting to go into the oil gallery plug at the back of the head and a 1/8 NPTF fitting to screw into the main oil gallery beneath the distributor. A moment’s thought, given what I have said about oil feed to the centre main bearing, will show up just why this is a bad idea. By connecting the rocker feed in this way you will inevitably rob oil from the centre main, hence you will actually make your motor more likely to go pop! Additionally, with no restrictor, you will over-feed oil to the rockers causing problems with inlet valve stem oiling at low rpm (meaning your motor will both burn oil and be closer to causing detonation from the reduction in octane of the fuel/air charge!). Finally, merely fitting an external oil feed while the internal oilway to the cylinder head is active will cause cavitation in the oil galleries and all sorts of flow problems. By far the best way to fit an external rocker feed is to firstly block off the vertical oilways in the block and head (use a tap and an 8mm grub screw in both block and head) and to take the feed from the main gallery at the rear of the block (opposite number 3 main) via the 5/16” UNF oilway plug tapping. To do this you will need a –2 to –3 male-male adapter to screw into the side of the block.
Another problem often reported with the Triumph 4-pot is the tendency for the thrust washers to drop out on high mileage engines. This will rapidly result in wear to the sides of number 3 main bearing cap and a block and crank that are scrap. While you could silver pin the thrusts in place, this is really only of use on a race engine that undergoes routine teardowns and rebuilds since wear of the thrusts will mean the heads of the silver pins becoming proud and damaging the crank. For a road / occasional Track Day motor I wouldn’t bother, just check the thrusts every 40,000 miles or so.
The following is an excerpt taken from an article I wrote for the MGOC regarding the Midget 1500 engine but it applies equally to the Spitfire 1500:
In 1968 Triumph became part of BLMC who were intent on cost saving such that in 1970 a major revision was made to the engine with the release of the Spitfire MkIV. It is this revision that would become the Achilles Heel of the later engines. The change centred primarily around the crankshaft. In order to rationalise machining operations the journal diameters were increased to the same size as those on the 6-cylinder engine (as fitted to the Vitesse, GT6 and TR5/6). Journal diameters increased from 2.0005” - 2.0010” to 2.3115” - 2.2120” (main bearing journals) and from 1.625” - 1.6255” to 1.875” - 1.8755” (crankpin journals). In doing so this made the crankshaft heavier with larger diameter but narrower bearings. Thus the later 1296cc crankshafts have more bearing drag than the early ‘small bearing’ cranks and, with the increased weight, take more power to accelerate.
Unfortunately BLMC compounded this by downgrading the steel used for the crank from EN40B to the far inferior EN16U. Given that the engine is a 3-main bearing design, the use of a heavier crank in an inferior material means that crankshaft flex starts to become a problem, hence the late 1296cc and all 1493cc engines are referred to as ‘floppy crank motors’. At some stage in the design of the engine (from 1296cc engine number FH25001E and all 1493cc engines) the bores were also recessed which was said to improve the sealing of the cylinder head gasket (even though earlier units had not had a problem). This would limit the safe over boring of the engine to a mere 20thou and, in fact can cause problems with detonation in tuned motors. If overboring greater than 20thou I deck the block flat and use the earlier 1296cc head gasket. Doing this will also mean that the pistons will need to be decked so as to give 20 – 25 thou clearance beneath the head gasket.
In 1972 the engine was again increased in size by stroking it to 87.5mm giving 1493cc. By this stage the engine really was at the limit of what could be done to it and the fact that it had a ‘floppy’ crank coupled with such a long stroke meant that failures would be commonplace unless certain aspects of the design are addressed. Fundamentally, for the reasons discussed earlier, crankshaft flex on the 1493cc motor is a major concern since it can rapidly lead to the oil overheating causing oil film breakdown with concomitant damage. Given that the motor is a 3-main bearing design, aside from the stroked crankshaft being poorly supported, it is the centre main bearing that feeds numbers 2 and 3 big ends. Any form of oil film breakdown will rapidly lead to wear of these bearings and, if not caught soon enough, a connecting rod (usually number 3) making a bid for freedom at high speed through the side of the crankcase. This is one of the reasons why the 1493cc unit cannot be revved like its smaller brethren.
However these failings can be addressed so as to produce a reliable unit with longevity between rebuilds. Primarily it is the oil system that should be sorted out, since this is at the heart of the problems. Fundamentally it is high oil temperature leading to oil film breakdown that kills Triumph 1500 engines. For this reason it is essential that an oil cooler be fitted; a 13 row by 235mm cooler is perfectly adequate (although for 'hard' use a 16 row is better).
In terms of the oil being used you must use a good 20/50 and change it yearly or every 6000 miles (whichever comes first), my personal choice is for Valvoline VR1 20/50 Racing. If the engine is in any state of tune (Stage one upwards) then use a 20/60 such as Penrite HPR 30.
Having sorted the oil and oil cooling, then modifications can be made to the oil system to increase its efficiency. Firstly it is essential to use the later type oil pump. This has an angled pick up that sits lower in the sump and better resists oil surge (if surge becomes a problem such as on Track Days then a single longitudinal baffle can be brazed into the sump, or better still a ‘Windage Tray’). Additionally care should be taken to reduce the endfloat on the pump to the minimum quoted figures:
Inner Rotor endfloat – 0.0004”
Outer Rotor endfloat – 0.0004”
Rotor Lobe clearance – 0.010”
Outer Rotor-to-Body clearance 0.008”
Given that the centre main bearing feeds numbers 2 and 3 big ends, then an increase in flow to here is beneficial. The gallery can be opened out to 5/16” (7.9mm), to do this requires the removal of the distributor driveshaft bush and care should be taken upon reassembly to attain the correct distributor endfloat.
While the crankshaft is not particularly well supported, the use of main cap straps or even steel main caps is not required on a road going motor. What should be done however, is to bottom tap the main bolt holes and fit longer high tensile bolts (3.25” UHL), my preference being for socket headed bolts (with case hardened washers) which can be wire locked in place (in addition to using loctite). At the same time as addressing the mains, the big ends should be fitted with high tensile bolts (the originals should never be re-used). Given the amount of ‘monkey metal’ fasteners being supplied these days, I suggest you use ARP bolts (which are stronger than the con rods) – a bit of a ‘no brainer’ really. Alternatively Ford Sierra Cosworth big end bolts can be used since they are a straight swap. Similarly I use ARP head studs and flywheel bolts.
The crankshaft / flywheel / front pulley / clutch MUST be accurately balanced to help cut down on vibrations inducing crank flex and a lightened flywheel is also of help here. Additionally I lighten the rods by polishing them down the beam (as well as removing the ‘cup’ at the little end). I then balance them end-to-end and overall to within 0.1g. If you are worried about con rod strength and unwilling to shell out ££££ on H-Section forged rods then use the early TR5 rods since they are basically the same albeit stronger and lack the hole in the shank above the big end.
With respect to bearings, ideally a lead-indium type should be used since these will better resist the loads encountered than will reticular tin ones. Unfortunately Vandervell VP2 are no longer available for this engine. This leads us to some choices:
For ‘hard’ use it is possible to fit MGB big end bearings (original part no. AEB4512) at 0.010” undersize (for a standard crank). The crankshaft should be ground to 1.8665” – 1.867 (ie 8.5 thou). The outsize edge of the locating tang on the bearings needs to be filed down slightly to locate them correctly in the con rods. Additionally, since these bearings are wider than the originals, the fillet radius of the journals must be checked after grinding and modified as necessary.
Having done this, while Tri-Metal VP2 bearings are unavailable, the alternatives are:
AE GS2541LC, which is a Tri-Metal, sintered lead-copper bearing. This is essentially the same bearing as the Glacier Vandervell VPR91173LC but which uses a lead/tin/copper overlay as opposed to the lead indium in the old VP2 compound.
This is a high quality bearing piece able to withstand moderate to high loads
A better alternative is the Clevite 77 compound (part no. CB792P), which is made in the USA. This is another Tri-Metal design using a lead/tin/copper overlay, the difference being that it uses a cast copper/lead material (similar to the old VP2) and, hence, is about 20% - 30% tougher in its ability to withstand loads than is the GS2541LC.
A final alternative is to use ACL Duraglide 780 Tri-Metal heavy duty bearings. These are essentially similar to the Clevite design.
If you don’t wish to go to the effort of fitting MGB bearings, and for a car that will see only normal / occasional track day use the expense is probably not worthwhile, then Tri-Metal bearings to fit the big ends are available from King (part no. CR4403AM).
With regards to the main bearings having a VP2 like compound isn’t as critical however I still believe the best bearings available should be fitted. To this end I would suggest using King part no. MB341AM.
Another worthwhile modification is to source an earlier style ‘small bearing’ camshaft and insert cam bearings into the block since in the 1493cc motor the cam runs direct in the block with no bearings.
With regard to the oil feed to the rocker shaft assembly, then there are a number of companies that will sell you an external rocker feed kit. Unfortunately all these kits are fundamentally flawed as they come and lack adequate instructions as to their fitting.
EVERY kit I have seen uses a –3 hose with a banjo fitting to go into the oil gallery plug at the back of the head and a 1/8 NPTF fitting to screw into the main oil gallery beneath the distributor. A moment’s thought, given what I have said about oil feed to the centre main bearing, will show up just why this is a bad idea. By connecting the rocker feed in this way you will inevitably rob oil from the centre main, hence you will actually make your motor more likely to go pop! Additionally, with no restrictor, you will over-feed oil to the rockers causing problems with inlet valve stem oiling at low rpm (meaning your motor will both burn oil and be closer to causing detonation from the reduction in octane of the fuel/air charge!). Finally, merely fitting an external oil feed while the internal oilway to the cylinder head is active will cause cavitation in the oil galleries and all sorts of flow problems. By far the best way to fit an external rocker feed is to firstly block off the vertical oilways in the block and head (use a tap and an 8mm grub screw in both block and head) and to take the feed from the main gallery at the rear of the block (opposite number 3 main) via the 5/16” UNF oilway plug tapping. To do this you will need a –2 to –3 male-male adapter to screw into the side of the block.
Another problem often reported with the Triumph 4-pot is the tendency for the thrust washers to drop out on high mileage engines. This will rapidly result in wear to the sides of number 3 main bearing cap and a block and crank that are scrap. While you could silver pin the thrusts in place, this is really only of use on a race engine that undergoes routine teardowns and rebuilds since wear of the thrusts will mean the heads of the silver pins becoming proud and damaging the crank. For a road / occasional Track Day motor I wouldn’t bother, just check the thrusts every 40,000 miles or so.
Wow! Thanks for the detail.
It might take me a while to digest all of that. It has set my mind going though! Part of me hopes that I will find something catastopic when I get a chance to take the head off - thus promting rebuild.
Interestingly, after a 200 mile drive home, it is using huge amounts of oil and, by the end, had stopped running on number 2 (possibly becuase the plug was oiled-up - it was black) but isn't making any kind of bottom-endy noises.
I guess all will be revealed when I find the time to investigate.
It might take me a while to digest all of that. It has set my mind going though! Part of me hopes that I will find something catastopic when I get a chance to take the head off - thus promting rebuild.
Interestingly, after a 200 mile drive home, it is using huge amounts of oil and, by the end, had stopped running on number 2 (possibly becuase the plug was oiled-up - it was black) but isn't making any kind of bottom-endy noises.
I guess all will be revealed when I find the time to investigate.
Right,
after much swearing I finally managed to get the head off the block (had rusted to the studs) and found a holed piston on number 2, opposite the spark plug. Has damaged the bore too. So its time to start planning the rebuild...
The sprints and hillclimbs I compete in use a target system. To win the championship you beat your target every time! Targets are set at 98% of the class record and therefore move everytime someone breaks the record. This is a problem for me as my car (mostly with previous owner) has set most of the records. So I need to go faster. There isn't much scope for developing the chassis so its mostly down to engine.
The rules are as follows:
Engine - No modifications outside balancing are allowed, e.g. standard camshaft, standard capacity (+60 thou), standard valves,seat dimensions and lift. The fitting of replacement valve seats and guides is permitted to allow the use of unleaded petrol. Gas flowing is prohibited. Cleaning of the head is limited to bead blasting.
Carburettors & Fuel System - Unmodified standard carburettors and inlet
manifold for each model must be used; needles and jets are free. Choice of air
filter and fuel pump is free.
Exhausts - Tubular exhaust manifolds are permitted along with any road legal
silencer.
My car set the record with all the external stuff done, except electronic ignition which might help a bit (and compensate for the fact I'll need to retard the ignition from current setting to save pistons!) and an electric fan.
I need to think about balancing (and I'm not sure how much you can lighten before you move from balancing to lightening!) and capacity. Also compression - I tested it before i stipped it and the compression ranged from 150psi to 180 (to 0). What would be good to aim for? How do I calculate it?
Given what GinettaGirl says about the crank etc, will I gain much power from +60 thou pistons and where will I get them? (what capacity would that give?)
Given that I will use standard cam and power drops like a stone after 5200 is it worth doing balancing the pistons / rods? I already have an oil cooler and change the oil / filter every few hundred miles. Indeed oil pressure was still as normal with the holed piston (unlike oil consumption!)
Thanks
after much swearing I finally managed to get the head off the block (had rusted to the studs) and found a holed piston on number 2, opposite the spark plug. Has damaged the bore too. So its time to start planning the rebuild...
The sprints and hillclimbs I compete in use a target system. To win the championship you beat your target every time! Targets are set at 98% of the class record and therefore move everytime someone breaks the record. This is a problem for me as my car (mostly with previous owner) has set most of the records. So I need to go faster. There isn't much scope for developing the chassis so its mostly down to engine.
The rules are as follows:
Engine - No modifications outside balancing are allowed, e.g. standard camshaft, standard capacity (+60 thou), standard valves,seat dimensions and lift. The fitting of replacement valve seats and guides is permitted to allow the use of unleaded petrol. Gas flowing is prohibited. Cleaning of the head is limited to bead blasting.
Carburettors & Fuel System - Unmodified standard carburettors and inlet
manifold for each model must be used; needles and jets are free. Choice of air
filter and fuel pump is free.
Exhausts - Tubular exhaust manifolds are permitted along with any road legal
silencer.
My car set the record with all the external stuff done, except electronic ignition which might help a bit (and compensate for the fact I'll need to retard the ignition from current setting to save pistons!) and an electric fan.
I need to think about balancing (and I'm not sure how much you can lighten before you move from balancing to lightening!) and capacity. Also compression - I tested it before i stipped it and the compression ranged from 150psi to 180 (to 0). What would be good to aim for? How do I calculate it?
Given what GinettaGirl says about the crank etc, will I gain much power from +60 thou pistons and where will I get them? (what capacity would that give?)
Given that I will use standard cam and power drops like a stone after 5200 is it worth doing balancing the pistons / rods? I already have an oil cooler and change the oil / filter every few hundred miles. Indeed oil pressure was still as normal with the holed piston (unlike oil consumption!)
Thanks
What you need is a small web 1500 crank - believed fitted to the engines in the Israeli Army Pony. They look like a Spitfire III crank, but have big bearings and a small tapered nose. The problem is getting one - I had two - one I've still got in my Herald - can't remember where the other one went. Much lighter than a standard crank - but unmodified.
If you wanted to, try offset grinding the crank - which has the effect of increasing the stroke. You'll need to source decent quality big end bearings at say -40. Smaller bearings are useful in any case as they have less drag
If you wanted to, try offset grinding the crank - which has the effect of increasing the stroke. You'll need to source decent quality big end bearings at say -40. Smaller bearings are useful in any case as they have less drag
jaybkay said:
What you need is a small web 1500 crank - believed fitted to the engines in the Israeli Army Pony. They look like a Spitfire III crank, but have big bearings and a small tapered nose. The problem is getting one - I had two - one I've still got in my Herald - can't remember where the other one went. Much lighter than a standard crank - but unmodified.
If you wanted to, try offset grinding the crank - which has the effect of increasing the stroke. You'll need to source decent quality big end bearings at say -40. Smaller bearings are useful in any case as they have less drag
I'm not sure this is in the spirit of the rules!If you wanted to, try offset grinding the crank - which has the effect of increasing the stroke. You'll need to source decent quality big end bearings at say -40. Smaller bearings are useful in any case as they have less drag
Plans are moving on...
In the short term I am going to fit a known to be good standard engine that my dad rebuilt a few thousand miles ago with the carbs / trumpets / exhaust / oil cooler etc of my current engine, add electronic ignition and get it set up / measured on a rolling road.
In the longer term I will rebuild the current engine to the maximum the rules will allow.
On the current (broken) engine I’ve got one of the external oil feeds that Ginetta G15 Girl so eloquently slates in her post above. Am I right in thinking that I’m better off with standard and shouldn’t bother to transfer it? I fully agree with G15 that over the last 15 years I have experienced several bottom end problems with this engine (including the snapped crank that caused Dad’s engine to need a rebuild) but apart from one snapped rocker shaft (v easy to fix) never a problem with the top end.
Remember both the hillclimbs and rallies the car does involve no more than 60 seconds of hard driving at a time.
In the short term I am going to fit a known to be good standard engine that my dad rebuilt a few thousand miles ago with the carbs / trumpets / exhaust / oil cooler etc of my current engine, add electronic ignition and get it set up / measured on a rolling road.
In the longer term I will rebuild the current engine to the maximum the rules will allow.
On the current (broken) engine I’ve got one of the external oil feeds that Ginetta G15 Girl so eloquently slates in her post above. Am I right in thinking that I’m better off with standard and shouldn’t bother to transfer it? I fully agree with G15 that over the last 15 years I have experienced several bottom end problems with this engine (including the snapped crank that caused Dad’s engine to need a rebuild) but apart from one snapped rocker shaft (v easy to fix) never a problem with the top end.
Remember both the hillclimbs and rallies the car does involve no more than 60 seconds of hard driving at a time.
BMWChris said:
In the short term I am going to fit a known to be good standard engine that my dad rebuilt a few thousand miles ago with the carbs / trumpets / exhaust / oil cooler etc of my current engine, add electronic ignition and get it set up / measured on a rolling road.
DO NOT re-use an oil cooler matrix from an engine that has gone pop! No matter how hard you try you will never fully flush it, and if it has become contaminated with particulates from a blown engine you put your new engine at SEVERE risk. BMWChris said:
In the longer term I will rebuild the current engine to the maximum the rules will allow.
Given that your regulations basically limit you to a stock engine I'd fully balance the bottom end and use a late 1500 oil pump with the angled pick up. I'd also look into whether it is legal to use a stock cam profile from an earlier variant. If so I'd use the Spitfire MkIII profile because it is 'wilder' than that of the 1500 - 270 duration with .340" lift as opposed to 256 duration with .340" lift. I'd also open out the centre main gallery to 5/16" (7.9mm) to increase the oil feed. To do this you have to remove the distributor bush - be careful you put it back in correctly and double check the endfloat as per the manual.BMWChris said:
On the current (broken) engine I’ve got one of the external oil feeds that Ginetta G15 Girl so eloquently slates in her post above. Am I right in thinking that I’m better off with standard and shouldn’t bother to transfer it? I fully agree with G15 that over the last 15 years I have experienced several bottom end problems with this engine (including the snapped crank that caused Dad’s engine to need a rebuild) but apart from one snapped rocker shaft (v easy to fix) never a problem with the top end.
It's perfectly acceptable to use an external rocker feed, however you MUST block off the internal vertical oilway to the head for it to work satisfactorily. To do it the right way get on to 'Think Automotive':
http://www.thinkauto.com/
and order a dash 2 to dash 3 male to male converter. Then you can take your rocker feed from the 5/16" tapping abeam the rear main bearing gallery.
The WRONG way to do it:
The RIGHT way to do it:
DO NOT re-use an oil cooler matrix from an engine that has gone pop! No matter how hard you try you will never fully flush it, and if it has become contaminated with particulates from a blown engine you put your new engine at SEVERE risk.
Thanks for the reply. I assume I need a new oil cooler even though it didn't technically go "pop" it just wore away very slowly! Just out of interest, what did happen to the piston and cylinder wall? Where did the bits go?
Thanks for the reply. I assume I need a new oil cooler even though it didn't technically go "pop" it just wore away very slowly! Just out of interest, what did happen to the piston and cylinder wall? Where did the bits go?
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