Looking to buy a TR4 - Any advice ?
Discussion
Hi, I'm not familiar with the Triumph forum (a TVR & MG owner)so 'hello' and sorry that I don't know anyone yet.
The reason for the question is that I'm going to look at a TR4 this week with a view to purchase. She's very pretty and the details seem to stack up so far - although I think the price is optimistic.
Link is : http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C81810/
I haven't owned a Triumph for many years and never a TR. However I have a reasonable gereral knowledge and am practical at maintaining standard mechanical bits. I've read pretty much everything I can find on the web - but it's mainly spec's and historic info.
Does anyone have any tips or advice they would share on any of the following :
General ownership
Common problems / solutions
Specific areas / bits that need thorough checking before purchase
Values of similar TR4's that have sold recently,
Any history on this specific car would be really interesting
Anything else relevant
I know this is a BIG and very open question but I'd appreciate input from anyone who has experience. Hopefully will get to know a few of you over the coming months.
Thx...Moto
The reason for the question is that I'm going to look at a TR4 this week with a view to purchase. She's very pretty and the details seem to stack up so far - although I think the price is optimistic.
Link is : http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C81810/
I haven't owned a Triumph for many years and never a TR. However I have a reasonable gereral knowledge and am practical at maintaining standard mechanical bits. I've read pretty much everything I can find on the web - but it's mainly spec's and historic info.
Does anyone have any tips or advice they would share on any of the following :
General ownership
Common problems / solutions
Specific areas / bits that need thorough checking before purchase
Values of similar TR4's that have sold recently,
Any history on this specific car would be really interesting
Anything else relevant
I know this is a BIG and very open question but I'd appreciate input from anyone who has experience. Hopefully will get to know a few of you over the coming months.
Thx...Moto
If it is a 1965 car, it will be one of the very last made. They stopped production on 6th January 1965!
Ok, contrary to poular belief, the body does perform a structural role, so ensure it is in good condition (especially the sills where the drain holes are - if they block, the sills rot).
Ensure that the car has the chrome beading on the tops of the wings.
The engine is as simple as an anvil and about as likely to go wrong, bar the obvious noises / smoke etc.
You'll need to lubricate the front trunnions every 1500 miles at the most.
Diff mounts are succeptable to corrosion (one of them on the old man's TR snapped!) so ensure it's all solid down there. Gearboxes themselves are ok, pretty robsut really. UJs can wear down which will lead to a BLOODY LOUD clonk coming from the rear end when you move off or are less than sympathetic with the throttle.
Brakes are pretty good (I think they're better than that actually!) but calipers can sieze if the cars hasn't been used.
The heater is woeful and the less said about the handbrake the better.
They shake quite a bit as they aren't that stiff. They're all quite hard to drive smoothly when cold but once warmed up they're quite nice to drive and easy to place.
The last thing I would say is that if the steering is heavy, then there's something not quite right. Couldn't tell you how much the steering racks are but if it is being toted as a well restored car, the steering should feel quite light
Think that's about it really.
Ok, contrary to poular belief, the body does perform a structural role, so ensure it is in good condition (especially the sills where the drain holes are - if they block, the sills rot).
Ensure that the car has the chrome beading on the tops of the wings.
The engine is as simple as an anvil and about as likely to go wrong, bar the obvious noises / smoke etc.
You'll need to lubricate the front trunnions every 1500 miles at the most.
Diff mounts are succeptable to corrosion (one of them on the old man's TR snapped!) so ensure it's all solid down there. Gearboxes themselves are ok, pretty robsut really. UJs can wear down which will lead to a BLOODY LOUD clonk coming from the rear end when you move off or are less than sympathetic with the throttle.
Brakes are pretty good (I think they're better than that actually!) but calipers can sieze if the cars hasn't been used.
The heater is woeful and the less said about the handbrake the better.
They shake quite a bit as they aren't that stiff. They're all quite hard to drive smoothly when cold but once warmed up they're quite nice to drive and easy to place.
The last thing I would say is that if the steering is heavy, then there's something not quite right. Couldn't tell you how much the steering racks are but if it is being toted as a well restored car, the steering should feel quite light
Think that's about it really.
Hi - what the others said BUT CHASSIS CHASSIS CHASSIS. If it hasn't been renewed it will be shot in the sections that support the rear of the car and you end up with widening gaps along the rear door edges - It'll need an expensive body off job. I spent 18 months looking at cars and few looked very nice indeed but they all had more rust/weld/holes than original metal in the chassis. Avoid bent chassis fronts where they've been in an accident.
There's a nice looking one on ebay at the moment at 7,750.
Opinions vary but but a sound car is about 8K to 10K, you should get a very nice one for 12.5K and you may see a dealer asking 22.5K but you can get a cracking TR5 for about 16.5K privately... I've just spent this restoring a TR4A on a new chassis as I prefer it to the TR5 and at least I know everything is as it should be!
They are prone to overheating a bit but easy for spannering which is a big advantage.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
There's a nice looking one on ebay at the moment at 7,750.
Opinions vary but but a sound car is about 8K to 10K, you should get a very nice one for 12.5K and you may see a dealer asking 22.5K but you can get a cracking TR5 for about 16.5K privately... I've just spent this restoring a TR4A on a new chassis as I prefer it to the TR5 and at least I know everything is as it should be!
They are prone to overheating a bit but easy for spannering which is a big advantage.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
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