SPITFIRE MK4 1300 TIMING MARKS?
Discussion
Just putting the front end of my 1300 engine back together (it was in bits when i got it). Working from the Haynes manual it shows a scribed line which is not on mine. Mine has a centre punch mark about half way across the gearwheel, i hope this is the mark to use as it is now all back together! Also the crankshaft pulley wheel retaining nut is supposed to have a lock washer which you bend over to lock the nut, i don`t appear to have that. Is there supposed to be one, i have a Herald engine as a spare which is all complete and appears not to have one. Is there a torque setting the manual doesn`t give one. Any help appreciated.........Martin
Ignore the marks on the timing gears, use the "on the rock method".
Bear with me, it's ten years since I've done this.......
Set 7 and 8 rocker in the normal way BUT with a very large gap (use the whole feeler gauge pack). This large gap must be the same. Set the crank at top dead centre.
Rotate the camshaft until the gaps on 7 and 8 are the same - this is camshaft top dead center. Rotate and turn the cam gear until you can fit all the bolts and fit the chain at the chain at the same time. Result, camshaft set.
Bear with me, it's ten years since I've done this.......
Set 7 and 8 rocker in the normal way BUT with a very large gap (use the whole feeler gauge pack). This large gap must be the same. Set the crank at top dead centre.
Rotate the camshaft until the gaps on 7 and 8 are the same - this is camshaft top dead center. Rotate and turn the cam gear until you can fit all the bolts and fit the chain at the chain at the same time. Result, camshaft set.
From memory mine had a punch mark, not a line too.
As for the crank pulley nut no, this doesn't have a locking washer. The woodruff key does most of the work so the nut is just there to stop it moving forward, not to hold it in place with pressure. I think there is a torque setting - if I remember I'll look it up in the factory workshop manual...
As for the crank pulley nut no, this doesn't have a locking washer. The woodruff key does most of the work so the nut is just there to stop it moving forward, not to hold it in place with pressure. I think there is a torque setting - if I remember I'll look it up in the factory workshop manual...
Couldn't find the Triumph workshop boox but looking in the Haynes manual it should be the same 150 lbft as listed for the 1500 engine. The crank it's self is different between 1300/1500 engines but the way the pulley/how it's attached is the same so the same torque should be correct.
I rebuilt my first 1300 engine based on the Haynes book so would have used that torque setting and the pulley never fell off!
Could be a bugger to torque up with just a short engine built - 150 lbft is a LOT. With a fully built/installed engine the trick is to remove the starter motor and (really) clamp some mole grips to the flywheel through the hole. This is then enough to torque the nut up.
I rebuilt my first 1300 engine based on the Haynes book so would have used that torque setting and the pulley never fell off!
Could be a bugger to torque up with just a short engine built - 150 lbft is a LOT. With a fully built/installed engine the trick is to remove the starter motor and (really) clamp some mole grips to the flywheel through the hole. This is then enough to torque the nut up.
Gassing Station | Triumph | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff