Thinking of a TR6
Discussion
Hello from Oz..
There is a TR6 available in Perth here in Australia. I have doubts and want to do some checking, but where to start?!
she is a white, 1971 US import from Arizona, still on Carbs..
originally it was 4 spd, now it has o/drive on the gearstick.
Also has electronic ignition now.
present owner has had it for 10 years and done a lot of work, spending wasnt really an issue as it was a daily driver for his company for years.
The roof however is tatty (not that you need one in Perth)
Mileage is unconfirmed at 30,000k's. Engine may not be original (owner is unsure)
it is also a LHD converted to RHD.
the plusses are :
it is very nice to drive, tight, straight, good brakes, clean pick up and sounds great!
Zero rust, that i can find. nada. not a drop... (arizona and Oz must be a good combination!)
He kept the original steering wheel as the new one is small, heavy to use at low speeds and looks wrong.
So.
Originality, how much emphasis should i put on it?
how many people are concerned about the RHD conversion?
if there is a question mark over the engine, how concerned would you be?
bearing in mind that very few TR's come up for sale in Perth, i am tempted as it looks and drives like a great car.
opinions are welcomed!
There is a TR6 available in Perth here in Australia. I have doubts and want to do some checking, but where to start?!
she is a white, 1971 US import from Arizona, still on Carbs..
originally it was 4 spd, now it has o/drive on the gearstick.
Also has electronic ignition now.
present owner has had it for 10 years and done a lot of work, spending wasnt really an issue as it was a daily driver for his company for years.
The roof however is tatty (not that you need one in Perth)
Mileage is unconfirmed at 30,000k's. Engine may not be original (owner is unsure)
it is also a LHD converted to RHD.
the plusses are :
it is very nice to drive, tight, straight, good brakes, clean pick up and sounds great!
Zero rust, that i can find. nada. not a drop... (arizona and Oz must be a good combination!)
He kept the original steering wheel as the new one is small, heavy to use at low speeds and looks wrong.
So.
Originality, how much emphasis should i put on it?
how many people are concerned about the RHD conversion?
if there is a question mark over the engine, how concerned would you be?
bearing in mind that very few TR's come up for sale in Perth, i am tempted as it looks and drives like a great car.
opinions are welcomed!
I love tr6's! I wouldn't be too worried about the engine, as long as it works nicely where's the problem-is my opinion but if you get the engine number and post it up someone would be able to tell you if its a tr6 engine or not, it really depends how worried you are about originality.
Try asking the same question on a triumph forum, either: http://www.sideways-technologies.co.uk or http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl...
Oli
Try asking the same question on a triumph forum, either: http://www.sideways-technologies.co.uk or http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl...
Oli
redchina said:
So.
Originality, how much emphasis should i put on it?
Depends, are you buying it to polish it or to drive it?Originality, how much emphasis should i put on it?
If you think it's important to clean the inside of the exhaust pipe and look at it then origonality is important.
If you think it's important to drive it then who really cares?
Ultimetly you can more or less buy everything (from badges to complete body shells) to make a non-origonal car origonal but if your buying to it use it, why bother?
redchina said:
how many people are concerned about the RHD conversion?
Not if it's been done properly.redchina said:
if there is a question mark over the engine, how concerned would you be?
Not very. Lots of cars have been converted from PI to carb. and as a US car this may never have been PI. Either way you can get PI kit from eBay/specialists to con/revert.None of the engines are that expensive (recon) if you want to change from say a saloon back back to an origonal TR6 one but the difference in power isn't that much between a saloon/TR and you could well have TR internals built in to a saloon block anyway (same casting).
redchina said:
..i am tempted as it looks and drives like a great car.
So...no rust, looks straight and drives well...So what's your problem exactly? Those are more important to me than the fact that it's a 1972 car but it's been fitted with the horns from a 1974 car.
I had a TR6 for six years. I personally would not worry about originality as there are a lot of cars around with mods. Be aware that a US spec engine may be different from a UK engine in terms of cylinder head compression so its not just a case of adding PI if you want to bring up to UK spec. Also gear ratio's may be different. However its all minor stuff really if the car is good you can upgrade things at your leisure. Would not worry about a professional left hand to right hand drive conversion although it will be worth less than an original RHD
TR6's - there are a bit boring IMHO DULL DON'T GET ONE
If you need and expert in Aus PM me and I'll give you a GURU down there's contact details (Jim Cun - you should see some of his moddded TRs' - Amazing).
If you need and expert in Aus PM me and I'll give you a GURU down there's contact details (Jim Cun - you should see some of his moddded TRs' - Amazing).
BurblingBrownOne said:
What peoples opinions on the benefits of fitting with triple Webber DCOE 40's instead of original fuel injection system? Fitted to a 125 BHP model.
Not worth doing from a performance perspective. Pi system is good for over 200bhp. Webbers, even the smaller 40's would be a total waste of alot of cash. (Plus to switch from Pi to Carbs you have to change the dizzy drive as well). If you want more performance spend the Webber cash on a performance fast road cam and then get the head flowed and skimmed to about 10:1. Or if you can get a 150 head do this on that as it has larger valves to start with. If you do this you nned to have the metering unit reset for a bit more flow - all this is fairly easy stuff.But don't just lash out on webbers they will do nothing on there own.
Oh and one of the boggest performance gains can be had by bining the low 3.45 Crown Wheel and pinion in the diff and replacing with the 3.7 (US spec cos there cars were strangled even more than the 125bhp TR6's), or a 3.9 (but I'd only go 3.9 if you do the above fast tuning). You have Overdrive so you will not loose top end cruiing ability but will be noticably faster through the gears. Get a race revalving of the overdrive too, that really make a difference. But all cost, but then a set of 3x Webbers and all the other gubbins is a hell of a lot of cash for NO gain!
Edited by jellison on Thursday 29th January 09:38
BurblingBrownOne said:
What peoples opinions on the benefits of fitting with triple Webber DCOE 40's instead of original fuel injection system? Fitted to a 125 BHP model.
Depends what your after. If you want to keep the performance the same/lower it but at the same time increase your fuel consumption - Webbers are the way to go!Spend the money fixing any issues with the PI system and getting it correctly set-up.
//j17 said:
BurblingBrownOne said:
What peoples opinions on the benefits of fitting with triple Webber DCOE 40's instead of original fuel injection system? Fitted to a 125 BHP model.
Depends what your after. If you want to keep the performance the same/lower it but at the same time increase your fuel consumption - Webbers are the way to go!Spend the money fixing any issues with the PI system and getting it correctly set-up.
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