TR6 cutting out when hot
Discussion
Does anyone have an explanation for my TR6 continually cutting out, approx after 1 hour and then after waiting for say 15 minutes it will start and run for about 10 minutes before it cuts out again. I suspect it is something to do with the fuel pump which is hot to the touch at the time. Thanks a lot. Keni 010
Hi Keni,
by the sounds of it, I guess you are still fuel injected?
It is a common issue with the original fuel injection pumps to get too hot, overheat the petrol and cause cavitation (evaporation) of petrol in the pump.
You need to cool the pump down, one way of doing this is to add a cooling ring around the pump, which passes excess petrol from the PRV, through a coil around the outside of the pump. http://www.leacymg.co.uk/index.php?product_id=5429...
If that still does not solve the overheating fuel pump problem there is a Bosch fuel pump conversion, costing about £229 + VAT http://www.prestigeinjection.net/pumps2.htm
by the sounds of it, I guess you are still fuel injected?
It is a common issue with the original fuel injection pumps to get too hot, overheat the petrol and cause cavitation (evaporation) of petrol in the pump.
You need to cool the pump down, one way of doing this is to add a cooling ring around the pump, which passes excess petrol from the PRV, through a coil around the outside of the pump. http://www.leacymg.co.uk/index.php?product_id=5429...
If that still does not solve the overheating fuel pump problem there is a Bosch fuel pump conversion, costing about £229 + VAT http://www.prestigeinjection.net/pumps2.htm
Edited by SpitBang on Tuesday 17th June 16:29
Hi Ken.
It is entirely possible that the problem is with your fuel pump. The pump needs roughly 105 psi in order to perform properly. If it doesn't, it slows and you get fuel starvation hence the reason for the big 6 cutting out.
If you want to retain the original fuel pump like me it is worth noting what I do when on a sunny day in the 5.
The first thing that I would do however, is to check that it is the fuel pump. Whn it won't start, get the Mrs or whoever to start the car and put your head in the boot. No loud whirring noise means its the pump. If the pump Whirrs away on ignition only, then it will be something else.
Keep us posted!
It is entirely possible that the problem is with your fuel pump. The pump needs roughly 105 psi in order to perform properly. If it doesn't, it slows and you get fuel starvation hence the reason for the big 6 cutting out.
If you want to retain the original fuel pump like me it is worth noting what I do when on a sunny day in the 5.
- Lubricate the pump on a regular basis. It stands to reason that a non-lubricated part will seize up more readily. The original Lucas pump on the 5 has been miles better since!
- Never let the tank drop below 1/3 full. The pump actually uses the cold fuel to help keep it cool. Also when the level drops low, you get fuel vapourisation in the tank which the pump tries to draw through. Fuel pump drawing vapour = fuel starvation = dead 6.
The first thing that I would do however, is to check that it is the fuel pump. Whn it won't start, get the Mrs or whoever to start the car and put your head in the boot. No loud whirring noise means its the pump. If the pump Whirrs away on ignition only, then it will be something else.
Keep us posted!
SpitBang said:
Hi Keni,
by the sounds of it, I guess you are still fuel injected?
It is a common issue with the original fuel injection pumps to get too hot, overheat the petrol and cause cavitation (evaporation) of petrol in the pump.
You need to cool the pump down, one way of doing this is to add a cooling ring around the pump, which passes excess petrol from the PRV, through a coil around the outside of the pump.
I wouldn't do this. You will only get a few more miles out of it before this overheats too and leaves you with something that takes longer to cool down. Worth thinking about.by the sounds of it, I guess you are still fuel injected?
It is a common issue with the original fuel injection pumps to get too hot, overheat the petrol and cause cavitation (evaporation) of petrol in the pump.
You need to cool the pump down, one way of doing this is to add a cooling ring around the pump, which passes excess petrol from the PRV, through a coil around the outside of the pump.
Combover said:
The first thing that I would do however, is to check that it is the fuel pump. Whn it won't start, get the Mrs or whoever to start the car and put your head in the boot. No loud whirring noise means its the pump. If the pump Whirrs away on ignition only, then it will be something else.
Keep us posted!
But when the pump cavitates it still whirrs away, albeit at a more strident pitch. Doesn't it? Had my Revington Bosch kit in so long I can't remember the last time I had a Lucas cavitate on me.Keep us posted!
BTW I've had the Revington kit in for 13 years now and it's been absolutely faultless and maintenance free. Maybe I ought to think about changing the filter. Not had a single problem with the old PI set up in that time either.
keni010 said:
I'll stick a picture of the TR6 on if someone can tell me how!!
Use a third party hosting site like Tinypic or similar.Insert the image url between brackets like shown below (but WITHOUT spaces) and hey presto!
[img] your picture url here [/img]
Quote my reply to see how I did this if you're still unsure:
Combover said:
keni010 said:
I'll stick a picture of the TR6 on if someone can tell me how!!
Use a third party hosting site like Tinypic or similar.Insert the image url between brackets like shown below (but WITHOUT spaces) and hey presto!
[img] your picture url here [/img]
Quote my reply to see how I did this if you're still unsure:
TRIED IT, SEE ABOVE, BUT I'M USELESS!!
Thanks Phil, got there in the end!! This is the car, it won the UK concours in 1999 (still have the cup) and it hasn't been out in any wet since. It really is A1........thanks again for the info re, Tinypics and keeping a fullish tank. I'll keep you posted on that one after the next dry day! Ken
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