TR6 Engine upgrades?
Discussion
Anyone know how much power you can get out of that straight 6? It's a great car but could be more fun if you could get more power out of it. I prefer the original engine to something like a chevy swap. I don't think the engines too small to be putting out decent numbers, and i'm sure someone has tried this before
thanks
thanks
sax player said:
My understanding is 170bhp is easily obtained
We used to run at 175 on blueprinted std bottom end flow 150 head, header CR, fast road cam and tweeked injection. That is fairly easy.Supercharger is alot of parts not just a blower! Ditch the Mechanical fi for a big SU or an expensive fi system - way too much work.
200+ bhp can be acheived on a std crank but you need steel rods and forged piston even better head, higher CR and close to a race spec cam, likely with roller rockers, can be done on fi but over 210 triple 45 webbers is the way to go - but you are close to a race engine then - peakier engine to drive.
All pro's and con's depending on how far you want to go.
250 ish depending on which rolling road you use. Will rev to 8000 to achieve the power so will need a steel crank (if you want to do more thant a few miles!!)
Gearbox will need better bearings and the OD needs to be uprated to cope. I know 230 is possible with the standard PI setup.
Expect to spend about £11k on the engine, plus other the bits needed to make it go and stop.
I have seen one with a rover V8.
Its expensive but my, what fun when its done eh Jon?
Gearbox will need better bearings and the OD needs to be uprated to cope. I know 230 is possible with the standard PI setup.
Expect to spend about £11k on the engine, plus other the bits needed to make it go and stop.
I have seen one with a rover V8.
Its expensive but my, what fun when its done eh Jon?
Type 49 said:
250 ish depending on which rolling road you use. Will rev to 8000 to achieve the power so will need a steel crank (if you want to do more than a few miles!!)
Gearbox will need better bearings and the OD needs to be uprated to cope. I know 230 is possible with the standard PI setup.
Expect to spend about £11k on the engine, plus other the bits needed to make it go and stop.
I have seen one with a rover V8.
Its expensive but my, what fun when its done eh Jon?
Oh yes - I get the feeling we've met!Gearbox will need better bearings and the OD needs to be uprated to cope. I know 230 is possible with the standard PI setup.
Expect to spend about £11k on the engine, plus other the bits needed to make it go and stop.
I have seen one with a rover V8.
Its expensive but my, what fun when its done eh Jon?
I think if I reve it to 8 it will need rebuilding more than once per season. Don't mind the odd spin to 7500 but not much past it!
I much prefer webbers - the noise and there is a limit to how easily tuneable the Fi is - glad we don't run it anymore.
Have a spangly new head for next year - holding of on the full tbui headers and 2.5" system for now (cash!!).
I'll have the 4 and the 6 next year
(Latest spec on the 4 will have it able to pull over 7 with big pistons more reliably than before).V8 in a TR6 na that is just wrong (rich coming from me I know)....
It depends on what you want to achieve. If its a full race engine as was mine then the expense is in the components whereas the assembly is a diy job, in that everything should fit (waits for laughter to subside)but things like deck blocking and machining the various faces is straight forward.
So decide at what rpm you want the power (5500rpm is probably a little much for pulling away from the lights or driving in traffic) which in turn will tell you what size valves you need (big for hi revs small for normal).
Line boring the block to fit cam bearings (not needed for a road engine) is somthing not all engineering firms can do and finally its the same with balancing all reciprocating components most firms send this job out to an specialist.
The head, well what can i say, it is a simple design and what is needed is flow so any "known to be good head man" can do it for you.
MMM what else, well the exhaust system, just buy a nice smooth flowing type of manifold with a single box for a nice throbbing sound.
Carbs , pi or throttle bodies, all have their merits.
I wouldnt reccomend any TR expert "per say" use someone who has a reputation for customer satisfaction, dosnt try to make you believe he is a prophet/god is reasonably priced and MOST important gets on with you job and finishes it in double quick time!
So decide at what rpm you want the power (5500rpm is probably a little much for pulling away from the lights or driving in traffic) which in turn will tell you what size valves you need (big for hi revs small for normal).
Line boring the block to fit cam bearings (not needed for a road engine) is somthing not all engineering firms can do and finally its the same with balancing all reciprocating components most firms send this job out to an specialist.
The head, well what can i say, it is a simple design and what is needed is flow so any "known to be good head man" can do it for you.
MMM what else, well the exhaust system, just buy a nice smooth flowing type of manifold with a single box for a nice throbbing sound.
Carbs , pi or throttle bodies, all have their merits.
I wouldnt reccomend any TR expert "per say" use someone who has a reputation for customer satisfaction, dosnt try to make you believe he is a prophet/god is reasonably priced and MOST important gets on with you job and finishes it in double quick time!
Type 49 said:
It depends on what you want to achieve. If its a full race engine as was mine then the expense is in the components whereas the assembly is a diy job, in that everything should fit (waits for laughter to subside)but things like deck blocking and machining the various faces is straight forward.
So decide at what rpm you want the power (5500rpm is probably a little much for pulling away from the lights or driving in traffic) which in turn will tell you what size valves you need (big for hi revs small for normal).
Line boring the block to fit cam bearings (not needed for a road engine) is somthing not all engineering firms can do and finally its the same with balancing all reciprocating components most firms send this job out to an specialist.
The head, well what can i say, it is a simple design and what is needed is flow so any "known to be good head man" can do it for you.
MMM what else, well the exhaust system, just buy a nice smooth flowing type of manifold with a single box for a nice throbbing sound.
Carbs , pi or throttle bodies, all have their merits.
I wouldnt reccomend any TR expert "per say" use someone who has a reputation for customer satisfaction, dosnt try to make you believe he is a prophet/god is reasonably priced and MOST important gets on with you job and finishes it in double quick time!
Agree with most of that. But for full race - it really is the last bit of precision that costs / counts - we tried several, but ultimately decided we could do it better ourselves (well my father with some very good engineering shops for thing like line boring, heads, girdles, etc, etc).So decide at what rpm you want the power (5500rpm is probably a little much for pulling away from the lights or driving in traffic) which in turn will tell you what size valves you need (big for hi revs small for normal).
Line boring the block to fit cam bearings (not needed for a road engine) is somthing not all engineering firms can do and finally its the same with balancing all reciprocating components most firms send this job out to an specialist.
The head, well what can i say, it is a simple design and what is needed is flow so any "known to be good head man" can do it for you.
MMM what else, well the exhaust system, just buy a nice smooth flowing type of manifold with a single box for a nice throbbing sound.
Carbs , pi or throttle bodies, all have their merits.
I wouldnt reccomend any TR expert "per say" use someone who has a reputation for customer satisfaction, dosnt try to make you believe he is a prophet/god is reasonably priced and MOST important gets on with you job and finishes it in double quick time!
I'd alway go Webbers unless youwanted to race with the HSCC where period Pi is the only wat to go and std steel panels - NUTs! - Why would I not want the car to go as fast as it can with plastic copy panels, but block and headed devived from std casting.
4's can be even harder to get really fast
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