Which TR6 to buy or avoid please?
Discussion
Always wanted a TR6 (have another car, so it would be another toy) but dont know much about them. I have gathered, from limited research, that its all about chassis, then body, then engine – and buy the best you can afford. I think I would prefer one that has had a nut and bolt restoration, and would need the car professionally looked at to ensure I dont buy a world of pain. My confusion is fuel injection vs carbs (and double or triple carbs, which ones - su, weber, stromberg). Also, can I please ask for an opinion on good places to source one, and what do people think of these two ?
1. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202308040...
2. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202307239...
Both look a little too good to be true (and yes, I know that usually means they are).
Nearly forgot - I get the impression that better (MX5) seats are a must unless you enjoy backpain, as is overdrive ?
1. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202308040...
2. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202307239...
Both look a little too good to be true (and yes, I know that usually means they are).
Nearly forgot - I get the impression that better (MX5) seats are a must unless you enjoy backpain, as is overdrive ?
Edited by vantager on Sunday 20th August 13:15
Edited by vantager on Sunday 20th August 13:17
My own opinion would be to avoid any carb TR6 as it is almost certainly one of the underpowered USA examples. To be fair, the blue car seller opening states that his example was repatriated from California but there are many unscrupulous sellers who forget to mention it. UK cars came with Lucas petrol injection.
So, to my eyes the red example is by far the best buy.
Yes, overdrive is a must (again, the vast majority of UK cars had it fitted). MX5 seats may be more comfortable but to me just don’t look right. I always found my standard seats to be just fine on anything other than very long journeys.
I’d suggest that you join the TR Register and their forum where there will be a considerable amount of knowledge and experience to help you.
So, to my eyes the red example is by far the best buy.
Yes, overdrive is a must (again, the vast majority of UK cars had it fitted). MX5 seats may be more comfortable but to me just don’t look right. I always found my standard seats to be just fine on anything other than very long journeys.
I’d suggest that you join the TR Register and their forum where there will be a considerable amount of knowledge and experience to help you.
I was like you and bought ours last summer, and have really enjoyed it.
A couple of things heavily influenced my decision:
1. It was completely stripped and restored and there was a photo album of the whole project
2. The previous owners have been keeping a meticulous ledger since 2nd owner in 1981 of all works, parts replaced, etc in the car.
3. I bought ours from a reputable dealer, with a CC and I got a 6 month warranty, as well as the comfort of knowing I had some protection from CC purchase.
You have to understand fully going in that:
PS> You don't say where you are in the UK, you could perhaps pay a local TR mechanic or find an enthusiast to go with and take a look.
A couple of things heavily influenced my decision:
1. It was completely stripped and restored and there was a photo album of the whole project
2. The previous owners have been keeping a meticulous ledger since 2nd owner in 1981 of all works, parts replaced, etc in the car.
3. I bought ours from a reputable dealer, with a CC and I got a 6 month warranty, as well as the comfort of knowing I had some protection from CC purchase.
You have to understand fully going in that:
- Things will need replacing (we've replaced all the fuel lines with E10 compatible, had the fuel injectors/Metering Unit reconditioned, a new fuel pump/filtering system, and replaced the external lights with LED ones to make it far more usable so far.
- Parts are sometimes interesting to find and that getting them reconditioned is usually the best move
- Being a member of the TR club, e.g., the TR Registry which gives you access to their forums should be done when you acquire as there's loads of good intel, and a very friendly community to help with things going wrong.
PS> You don't say where you are in the UK, you could perhaps pay a local TR mechanic or find an enthusiast to go with and take a look.
Edited by Steve-B on Monday 21st August 13:23
Great cars had mine 5 years. It was a complete ground up restoration UK car with its history going all the way back to 1978. I wanted a UK fuel injected car and with all the modern day modifications and it’s set up properly they are trouble free.
The straight six is renowned as one of the best Classic car sounds around especially when you go through the box giving it some beans. I have a 6 into 2 into 1 big bore SS and it wails like a banshee at full chat, but settles back to a slight drone when cruising in overdrive.
Overdrive is must unless you are only going to tootle round on a Sunday morning to the end of the road and back.
There are some nice cars for sale on the Triumph Forum, you know the ones where the chap is getting to old and wants to get out.
The straight six is renowned as one of the best Classic car sounds around especially when you go through the box giving it some beans. I have a 6 into 2 into 1 big bore SS and it wails like a banshee at full chat, but settles back to a slight drone when cruising in overdrive.
Overdrive is must unless you are only going to tootle round on a Sunday morning to the end of the road and back.
There are some nice cars for sale on the Triumph Forum, you know the ones where the chap is getting to old and wants to get out.
Edited by hilly10 on Thursday 31st August 15:05
When I was doing my research I nailed it down to the following
1.) Solid chassis - light surface rust is fine, any corroded members is expensive. Probably the most important factor
2.) Rust free
3.) CP car (150 BHP)
4.) PI - fuel injected
5.) Overdrive
Colour was secondary, but I got what I wanted including new sort top, hard top, tonneau, new clutch, unleaded, alloy fuel tank and a few other bits.
When I was talking to the experts in the field the general consensus back then was that you needed to spend £25k to get a good one, although I'm sure there will be good cars out there for less.
1.) Solid chassis - light surface rust is fine, any corroded members is expensive. Probably the most important factor
2.) Rust free
3.) CP car (150 BHP)
4.) PI - fuel injected
5.) Overdrive
Colour was secondary, but I got what I wanted including new sort top, hard top, tonneau, new clutch, unleaded, alloy fuel tank and a few other bits.
When I was talking to the experts in the field the general consensus back then was that you needed to spend £25k to get a good one, although I'm sure there will be good cars out there for less.
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