TR7 FHC restoration questions

TR7 FHC restoration questions

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TimLux

Original Poster:

101 posts

137 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
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Hi all.

I recently bought a TR7:


It needs some TLC and I am hoping that you kind people can give me a bit of advice. This is my first restoration project - in at the deep end - and I want to learn as much as I can while restoring it, preferably back to an "original" state (i.e. I am not interested in "upgrades" at this point). The car is a 1977 LHD Speke-built car (I know, "poor choice", but it was very local and not-too-expensive) that originally went to Belgium, was used properly, then went into a "collection" where it rotted... bits of it were restored in 1991... then it sat in a barn until I bought it. As far as I can tell, the drive-train is original: 4 speed box & rear axle, 2 litre engine. The 1991 restoration seems to have covered the front wings, which are now bolted where I assume the originals were welded, and some other welding here-and-there. There are parts of the car which I think are surprisingly good - under the bonnet the chassis seems very tidy, for example - but other areas need attention. My plan with the car is to get the mechanicals back together enough to ensure that the transmission is fine then remove it from the car and concentrate on the shell; the engine was fired up before I bought the car but the clutch release lever had been knocked off the bearing so I could not check the clutch/gearbox/axle. Currently everything from the bell-housing backwards is off the car and a visual inspection of the internals of the gearbox seems fine (to a novice like me at least).

So, the first questions:
1. I have removed the carpets and trim from the car and there seem to be sheets of plastic molded over parts of the floor. I suspect that these are part of a dubious repair, but would be happy for somebody to confirm one way or the other. It looks to me like I should cut out the floor panels and replace them entirely?
Driver side:

Passenger side:

2. Same with the rear shelf?

3. The car seems to have heated seats (well, there are leads coming out of them). I assume that these were not original?
4. Are "original" electric connectors available? For example, the headlamp wiring is a bunch of random connectors/splicings on one side, and the other side isn't connected. (Side-note: I took apart the headlamp system and ordered replacement motors because mine have various broken parts within).

(Contrast the floor with the turrets).


Boosted LS1

21,198 posts

267 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
The leads in the seats are probably for the seat belt warning light on the dash if your car has that. The plastic on the floor and rear bulkhead is melted in place and is used for sound deadening. You'll probably find that it's hard and brittle and a few mm's thick. I assume this is what you are asking about. You'll have to brake it off if you plan on any welding.

I can see that there have been welded repairs in the turret area, this is fairly usual. Check the floor just behind the seat runners as this is a place which commonly rots. If you can find a 5 speed box from another TR or Rover this is the time to get it. Also watch out for a 5 speed axle, ie off a later car. Those wheels will be scarce these days, look like alleycat rally specials ;-)

Good choice of project, endless options are available. I turned one of mine into a 2+2, v8 etc with turbo's.

Edited by Boosted LS1 on Saturday 13th June 17:19

TimLux

Original Poster:

101 posts

137 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
Hi - thanks for the reply.

Boosted LS1 said:
The leads in the seats are probably for the seat belt warning light on the dash if your car has that.
Bang on: there is a "Fasten belt" light in the dash. smile (I have not yet had a battery connected to the car so I couldn't see it until I shone a torch at it!).

Boosted LS1 said:
The plastic on the floor and rear bulkhead is melted in place and is used for sound deadening. You'll probably find that it's hard and brittle and a few mm's thick. I assume this is what you are asking about. You'll have to brake it off if you plan on any welding.
Yes, that would also explain that then. In that case I am a lot less worried about the state of the floor except where the plastic is obviously coming up... ; it looks like maybe just the front section needs attention (near the circular plates).

Boosted LS1 said:
I can see that there have been welded repairs in the turret area, this is fairly usual. Check the floor just behind the seat runners as this is a place which commonly rots.
Looks fine from inside the car though there are alu plates rivetted there that probably aren't original. I will post photos of the area later; I think the trailing arms themselves have surface rust only, but the chassis near it might need a bit of work.

Boosted LS1 said:
If you can find a 5 speed box from another TR or Rover this is the time to get it. Also watch out for a 5 speed axle, ie off a later car. Those wheels will be scarce these days, look like alleycat rally specials ;-)

Good choice of project, endless options are available. I turned one of mine into a 2+2, v8 etc with turbo's.
I'm unsure about upgrades as I have the "performance car" covered already (well, once it's had its crash damage repaired frown ). My plan was to get the TR7 back to being as original as possible as I thought that maybe there aren't many "untouched" early TR7s around any more. I take it the wheels aren't original then? (Have to say I do like the look of them smile).

TimLux

Original Poster:

101 posts

137 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
Pictures of the seat-rail area from the inside (circular area looks like it needs examination):


And the trailing arm mount on the outside:

And a wheel smile (Monza RW? - Made in Italy):


Boosted LS1

21,198 posts

267 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
The circular section is just a huge bung in case the car ever got flooded or or it's for some other drainage reason. You can knock it out and reseal it later if ever you want to. Lower axle mounts look good, sometimes you get corrosion on the bulkhead. Check really closely where the seat rail meets the bulkhead. Not sure what the alloy plates you mention are for. Investigate this as alloy is useless from a strength aspect. Monzas are nice but I doubt you'll find a spare should you need one. Keep an eye out for a spare set of wheels :-).

Edited by Boosted LS1 on Saturday 13th June 21:39

Vincefox

20,566 posts

179 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
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You poor, poor sod.

Boosted LS1

21,198 posts

267 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
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Oh OP, don't forget that the TR7 had a very good racing pedigree to. It was commercial factors and striking fkwits that ruined it all.

Jammez

670 posts

214 months

Friday 19th June 2015
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That actually looks pretty sound from the pictures,mine was awful in comparison.

There's plenty of info online various TR forums detailing endless upgrades. You're right about there being very few original spec cars left, lots have been converted to V8's etc. The DHC seem to be more popular so I think a standard FHC will be a rare sight. We have 2 DHC, one converted to v8 and one with a Sprint engine. 2 FHC, one being converted (slowly) with a Lexus V8 and one we'd like to return to completely original spec.

The 5 speed box is a worth while conversion & if you do want a bit more poke but a fairly standard look go for a Dolly Sprint engine.

Upgrading bushes & suspension components will really make an real improvement to the handling, our sprint engine DHC has all round polybushes, spax and stiffer springs, its a hoot to drive.

Good news is there's plenty of bits around from places like Rimmers and S&S preparations and stuff isn't crazy prices.

davepoth

29,395 posts

206 months

Sunday 19th July 2015
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Boosted LS1 said:
Oh OP, don't forget that the TR7 had a very good racing pedigree to. It was commercial factors and striking fkwits that ruined it all.
It was actually the biggest selling TR of all.