spitfire advice
Discussion
Hi i am looking in to buying a spitfire has a day to day car. My budget is about £2500. I could do with a bit of adivise on what one to go for i like the 1500. I like the look, the extra head room with the hood up (im 6ft 1) and the better interior. I know the 1500 has problems with its engine. maintenace would not be a problem has im a mechanic and have accses to a garage with ramps and tools but would it start to get annoying with it keep braking down? Or are they not has bad has some people make out ? i know people recomend the IV but surley its better to have a good 1500 than a rubbish IV. I would be trully gratfull if i could get a bit of advise on what to look for when viewing a car i.e rust prone spots noises to look out for and any little test to on the day.
Thanks Aiden
Thanks Aiden
Hi
i had a spitefire for nearly 2 years before loosing it on the ice, i used it very regularly as a daily driver. The bottom end on the 1500 are very weak my bottom end went on mine and had to be reconditioned and cost me over a grand plus labour.
but they may not be an issue for you as your a mechanic.
I dont know if you have any previous experience with classics, but they are fragile the 1500 isnt a very revvy engine the iv is meant to be more so, however it does feel torquey as mine would pull happily in 4 (no overdrive) from 30 mph, try get an overdrive i imagine it makes all the difference.
as for daily driving, well you wont be cold as they get hot but you will get wet try find a hard top, although mine leaked like a sieve anyway but the seals were shot.
On the whole i found it an amazing experience and would take 10 spits over a modern car, if you can stretch your budget i would recomend a GT6 as well but they seem to be going up in value.
You should be able to get a decent spitfire for 2500. but as i said things will go wrong but once there sorted they are fairly reliable
Things to look for, rust everywhere! check for accident damage, rust in the boot, rear arches front arches, chassis, check the engine dosnt rattle at start up or on a run. when out for a test drive check for rumbling from the rear from the diff. check for rust underneath.
Ask what kind of use the car gets, sometimes it better to buy a rougher one that is used than a cosseted car which is hardly used. check the carbs dashpots for oil you should feel a pressure when you push the thing in. Overdives leak fact. check for engine leaks. your biggest worry is the bottom end. oh and check the hood hasnt stretched as that is a pricy thing to replace. check under carpets in footwells for rust or damp.
just my 2 cence
cerbs
i had a spitefire for nearly 2 years before loosing it on the ice, i used it very regularly as a daily driver. The bottom end on the 1500 are very weak my bottom end went on mine and had to be reconditioned and cost me over a grand plus labour.
but they may not be an issue for you as your a mechanic.
I dont know if you have any previous experience with classics, but they are fragile the 1500 isnt a very revvy engine the iv is meant to be more so, however it does feel torquey as mine would pull happily in 4 (no overdrive) from 30 mph, try get an overdrive i imagine it makes all the difference.
as for daily driving, well you wont be cold as they get hot but you will get wet try find a hard top, although mine leaked like a sieve anyway but the seals were shot.
On the whole i found it an amazing experience and would take 10 spits over a modern car, if you can stretch your budget i would recomend a GT6 as well but they seem to be going up in value.
You should be able to get a decent spitfire for 2500. but as i said things will go wrong but once there sorted they are fairly reliable
Things to look for, rust everywhere! check for accident damage, rust in the boot, rear arches front arches, chassis, check the engine dosnt rattle at start up or on a run. when out for a test drive check for rumbling from the rear from the diff. check for rust underneath.
Ask what kind of use the car gets, sometimes it better to buy a rougher one that is used than a cosseted car which is hardly used. check the carbs dashpots for oil you should feel a pressure when you push the thing in. Overdives leak fact. check for engine leaks. your biggest worry is the bottom end. oh and check the hood hasnt stretched as that is a pricy thing to replace. check under carpets in footwells for rust or damp.
just my 2 cence
cerbs
Edited by Cerberosa on Monday 23 April 13:01
I have a 1500, and like you said I did so because that's what came up- it was rust free and strong mechanically so I took it. The 1500 engine has more torque and it's great fun to drive, though I'm not an expert on the 1300 model. Rust is number one most important thing to avoid as the oily bits are so simple. I'm not even close to being a mechanic and I've fixed anything that's gone wrong easily (and in fact in a year nothing has really gone wrong apart from the time I tried to adjust the carbs without doing it properly 
). Just make sure the car is solid, as they are not very fast cars these days anyway I wouldn't think there would be a huge difference between the 1500 and 1300.
Best is the Mk3 for tuning and speed, apparently, but I prefer the looks of the later spits. If you've got any other questions fire away, there are loads of spit owners here!
). Just make sure the car is solid, as they are not very fast cars these days anyway I wouldn't think there would be a huge difference between the 1500 and 1300.Best is the Mk3 for tuning and speed, apparently, but I prefer the looks of the later spits. If you've got any other questions fire away, there are loads of spit owners here!
From memory I think one of the weaknesses of the 1500 Triumph was an inadequate engine breathing system which led to rapid sludge build up and bearing oil starvation. I rather think the Ford 112E suffered from the same big end failure at the same time for the same reason: poor engine breathing and oil starvation. Completely unrelated engines but suffering from the same problem.
As others have said get the best solid body you can find and make that your priority. The 1500 is more powerful than the 1300 but not as well liked because of premature failure. Neither are fast cars but with overdrive (worthwhile) will cruise (in 1960's sense) at 70mph.
As a mechanic you could probably devise a better breathing system for the engine. You may also find modern oils can cope a lot more effectively.
But bodywork and chassis strength must be your mantra. Mechanics are really Meccano on these cars.
As others have said get the best solid body you can find and make that your priority. The 1500 is more powerful than the 1300 but not as well liked because of premature failure. Neither are fast cars but with overdrive (worthwhile) will cruise (in 1960's sense) at 70mph.
As a mechanic you could probably devise a better breathing system for the engine. You may also find modern oils can cope a lot more effectively.
But bodywork and chassis strength must be your mantra. Mechanics are really Meccano on these cars.
Thanks for the advice 
i do have a bit of experiance in classic cars i am lucky enough to work on cars such has lotus caltons and old bmws as for the the oil starvation and breathing problems im sure i can work out a way. It is always nice to hear from people who have owned and run the cars. Your feedback and advice is massively appreciated and extremely helpful.
thanks Aiden
i do have a bit of experiance in classic cars i am lucky enough to work on cars such has lotus caltons and old bmws as for the the oil starvation and breathing problems im sure i can work out a way. It is always nice to hear from people who have owned and run the cars. Your feedback and advice is massively appreciated and extremely helpful.thanks Aiden
Rust, rust and rust.
1500s the best to drive. Check running oil pressure, if in doubt fit a reground crank. Synthetic oil helps but it can be useful to fit valve stem seals to minimise consumption.
1300 Mk IV engines are pretty awful things, earlier ones are useful as they are tax free.
Mk III 1300s are more fun and reliable.
Beware rear wheel bearings on post 73 cars (long shaft) - you will not get a rear hub without the special tool - and you'll need a new halfshaft.
1500s the best to drive. Check running oil pressure, if in doubt fit a reground crank. Synthetic oil helps but it can be useful to fit valve stem seals to minimise consumption.
1300 Mk IV engines are pretty awful things, earlier ones are useful as they are tax free.
Mk III 1300s are more fun and reliable.
Beware rear wheel bearings on post 73 cars (long shaft) - you will not get a rear hub without the special tool - and you'll need a new halfshaft.
For daily go for a 1500.
The weak bottom end thing is true but only to an extent.
Regular oil changes with good quality oil - good cooling - full width radiator is well worth it and an oil cooler with thermostat if you are likely to do lots of motorway driving (not what a Spitty is about though).
My 1500 has done 25000 miles while I've had it and I believe the engine was reconditioned around 10,000 before that. It's still sweet.
When buying check for end float on the crankshaft pulley when pressing the clutch. If there is visible movement the thrust washers are worn at best. If very noticeable the thrust may have dropped into the sump - I'd walk away in that case.
Get one with overdrive if you can.
The weak bottom end thing is true but only to an extent.
Regular oil changes with good quality oil - good cooling - full width radiator is well worth it and an oil cooler with thermostat if you are likely to do lots of motorway driving (not what a Spitty is about though).
My 1500 has done 25000 miles while I've had it and I believe the engine was reconditioned around 10,000 before that. It's still sweet.
When buying check for end float on the crankshaft pulley when pressing the clutch. If there is visible movement the thrust washers are worn at best. If very noticeable the thrust may have dropped into the sump - I'd walk away in that case.
Get one with overdrive if you can.
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