Getting the right Spitfire
Discussion
unfortunately with spits (or any old Triumph) newer does not mean less prone to be rusty, they're just as bad or worse. In your position I'd go for a Mk3 - they're the nicest and the handling is easily sorted with some decent dampers. In fact I'm not sure the rear spring set up on a 3 is any different to a 4.
i have the mkiv and its a brilliant car, the most agressive looks. i went for it because it was in my budget. the mkiii in my opinion has a nicer front end but back end on the mk iv is nicer in my opinion.
the mk 3 i seem to remember coems standard with the stage 2 head on it so it is more powerfull.
i would definetly go for a spitfire as iv had nothing but fun in mine, untill some one hit it. i bought mine with little mechanical know how but i learnt very fast.
as others have said. body work is the most important. mechanics are quite easy and cheap to fix in most cases. watch out for the fifteen hundreds as they are prone to failure.
if you can, get one with overdrive, i didnt and its uncomfortable on the motorway, but as a weekend car it should be fine.
dont be scared to drive it in all weather. thats what they were made for, just look after it.
around 3000 will get you a pretty good one i think. ( in scoltand anyway )
thanks
the mk 3 i seem to remember coems standard with the stage 2 head on it so it is more powerfull.
i would definetly go for a spitfire as iv had nothing but fun in mine, untill some one hit it. i bought mine with little mechanical know how but i learnt very fast.
as others have said. body work is the most important. mechanics are quite easy and cheap to fix in most cases. watch out for the fifteen hundreds as they are prone to failure.
if you can, get one with overdrive, i didnt and its uncomfortable on the motorway, but as a weekend car it should be fine.
dont be scared to drive it in all weather. thats what they were made for, just look after it.
around 3000 will get you a pretty good one i think. ( in scoltand anyway )
thanks
Good advice there jms 
However; there's also my way; where you buy a 1500 for £1300 then constantly pray it doesn't break. Sadly it now has, slightly catastrophically; but a whole engine's £150 so it's not that bad...
Edit: This club may be of some help for youhttp://younggunsclassics.forumcircle.com/
However; there's also my way; where you buy a 1500 for £1300 then constantly pray it doesn't break. Sadly it now has, slightly catastrophically; but a whole engine's £150 so it's not that bad...
Edit: This club may be of some help for you
http://younggunsclassics.forumcircle.com/Edited by Aar0sc on Wednesday 3rd August 14:05
hello there arron.
that forum and club triumph are great resources.
arron makes a good point that reanforces the importance of the body work. if the mechanics on your car go wrong, a whole engine can be bought for same price as replacing a body panel almost.
can be a bit of a faf though cant it ?
( spitfire owners are every where and always happy to give a hand or advice )
that forum and club triumph are great resources.
arron makes a good point that reanforces the importance of the body work. if the mechanics on your car go wrong, a whole engine can be bought for same price as replacing a body panel almost.
can be a bit of a faf though cant it ?
( spitfire owners are every where and always happy to give a hand or advice )
looks like that cars got a metalic paint job which would be hard to find. i have heard mixed reviews for speed between the mkiv and fifteen hundred. mkiv revs much happier i beleive but the fifteen hundred is better for motor way speeds and cruising. ( correct me if im wrong)
you will be handing over quite a bit more cash i think for a mkiii.
for parts it depends where abouts you are. i have a local specialist who sells parts at the same price as on the web but you get the added bonus of advice and you know your getting the right parts. i hear that people avoid rimmer bros because of the prices but they are good for certain things. i bought a full size radiaotr of them for around 90 pounds i think which was great ( and worth it ( especialy in the fifteenhundred ( mkiii already has it i think )))
you should be able to find a local parts supplier near you. and club triumph has lots of members willing to help out with buckets of spares.
a good thing to remember is not to buy cheap parts as even some of the dearer ones arent as good as they used to be ( rubber hoses to name one) and rebuilding parts is a worth while bit of work. ( not for rubber hoses though
)
you will be handing over quite a bit more cash i think for a mkiii.
for parts it depends where abouts you are. i have a local specialist who sells parts at the same price as on the web but you get the added bonus of advice and you know your getting the right parts. i hear that people avoid rimmer bros because of the prices but they are good for certain things. i bought a full size radiaotr of them for around 90 pounds i think which was great ( and worth it ( especialy in the fifteenhundred ( mkiii already has it i think )))
you should be able to find a local parts supplier near you. and club triumph has lots of members willing to help out with buckets of spares.
a good thing to remember is not to buy cheap parts as even some of the dearer ones arent as good as they used to be ( rubber hoses to name one) and rebuilding parts is a worth while bit of work. ( not for rubber hoses though
)Mine is a MkIV with a 1500 engine. Definitely better and easier to drive than the standard MkIV my mother has. But then again it's going to be a completely different driving experience to modern cars that you probably won't notice the difference between them.
Go with which ever model you like the look of I would say. Mine cost £1200 10 years ago and I've replaced bits as and when they needed doing.
Remember that anything built before January 1973 will be tax exempt.
Reading this thread made me go home at lunchtime and drag mine out of the garage
Go with which ever model you like the look of I would say. Mine cost £1200 10 years ago and I've replaced bits as and when they needed doing.
Remember that anything built before January 1973 will be tax exempt.
Reading this thread made me go home at lunchtime and drag mine out of the garage
I'll sum them up then:
MkI - very pretty; but rare and not too fast. Herald rear suspension; so hard corning is "interesting"
MkII - nearly identical to the MkI; but a little more comfortable and quicker
MkIII - higher front bumper; bigger (1300) engine and a lumpier cam and tubual manifold. Still has the "interesting" rear suspension though!
MkIV - complete redesign; kamm tail; new nose and deseamed front wings; new dashboard; (now the speedo is infront of the driver) and better seats. Less power than the MkIII though. Has much better rear suspension; so going round corners tends to involve less snap oversteer
1500 - interior has minor improvements from the MkIV; more comfortable seats; padding for your knees; and the 1500 engine - look after it and it's no less reliable than the others; much more torquey and has the highest top speed. They just don't rev as happily. I haven't driven a 1300 or 1100 car so I don't know the difference personally :P
Also; all UK cars won't have huge plastic bumpers; only the Americans did (they also had a single carb'd engine; resulting in about 35 hp!)
Aaron
MkI - very pretty; but rare and not too fast. Herald rear suspension; so hard corning is "interesting"
MkII - nearly identical to the MkI; but a little more comfortable and quicker
MkIII - higher front bumper; bigger (1300) engine and a lumpier cam and tubual manifold. Still has the "interesting" rear suspension though!
MkIV - complete redesign; kamm tail; new nose and deseamed front wings; new dashboard; (now the speedo is infront of the driver) and better seats. Less power than the MkIII though. Has much better rear suspension; so going round corners tends to involve less snap oversteer
1500 - interior has minor improvements from the MkIV; more comfortable seats; padding for your knees; and the 1500 engine - look after it and it's no less reliable than the others; much more torquey and has the highest top speed. They just don't rev as happily. I haven't driven a 1300 or 1100 car so I don't know the difference personally :P
Also; all UK cars won't have huge plastic bumpers; only the Americans did (they also had a single carb'd engine; resulting in about 35 hp!)
Aaron
Having owned a MkIV and a 1500 I can tell you that there is a considerable performance difference. The extra go is also in the mid range - where you are likely to need it. There are some reliablity issues with 1500s. My one was fine for me but broke a crank with previous owner (my sister). My 1500 Miget is currently working but wasn't for a while (see ShoestringMGracer.com for details). But it does have a hard life!
1500 is the one to go for in my view. Not just cos that's what mine is.
The Mk4 is revvier thing is true to an extent but not so much as you'll care 99% of the time.
The other argument against 1500s is that they go through bearings and thrust washers. Regular oil changes and keeping the cooling right will serve you well in this respect. Changing the thrusts after 30-40,000 miles isn't such a hardship.
Best handling as standard too. Same improved Swing Spring as the Mk 4 plus longer driveshafts to increase the negative camber at the back.
Overall though - yes - go for best body and chassis you can get. The rest can be replaced over time.
When test driving, ticking from the back end will generally mean new UJs required. Easy job so use as a bargaining chip but don't be put off.
The Mk4 is revvier thing is true to an extent but not so much as you'll care 99% of the time.
The other argument against 1500s is that they go through bearings and thrust washers. Regular oil changes and keeping the cooling right will serve you well in this respect. Changing the thrusts after 30-40,000 miles isn't such a hardship.
Best handling as standard too. Same improved Swing Spring as the Mk 4 plus longer driveshafts to increase the negative camber at the back.
Overall though - yes - go for best body and chassis you can get. The rest can be replaced over time.
When test driving, ticking from the back end will generally mean new UJs required. Easy job so use as a bargaining chip but don't be put off.
Aar0sc said:
I'll sum them up then:
MkIII - higher front bumper; bigger (1300) engine and a lumpier cam and tubualar manifold. Still has the "interesting" rear suspension though!
No. It was the MkII that had a tubular manifold as std. The MkIII reverted to the Heral cast manifold.MkIII - higher front bumper; bigger (1300) engine and a lumpier cam and tubualar manifold. Still has the "interesting" rear suspension though!
Aar0sc said:
MkIV - complete redesign; kamm tail
It does not have a Kamm tail, it isn't cut off short enough (or at the correct angle) to be anything like a Kamm tail.Aar0sc said:
and the 1500 engine - look after it and it's no less reliable than the others; much more torquey and has the highest top speed. They just don't rev as happily.
The 1500 is far closer to the failure line than is the 1300 large crank and really requires tri-metal big ends as well as an oil cooler. The 1300 large crank doesn't really rev any better than the 1500 owing to the heavy journal design common to both. The 1300 small crank (Spitfire MkIII revs far easier which is why it is the basis of all serious Spitfire race motors).Nor is the 1500 any faster than the MkIII.
Ginetta G15 Girl said:
Aar0sc said:
I'll sum them up then:
MkIII - higher front bumper; bigger (1300) engine and a lumpier cam and tubualar manifold. Still has the "interesting" rear suspension though!
No. It was the MkII that had a tubular manifold as std. The MkIII reverted to the Heral cast manifold.MkIII - higher front bumper; bigger (1300) engine and a lumpier cam and tubualar manifold. Still has the "interesting" rear suspension though!
Aar0sc said:
MkIV - complete redesign; kamm tail
It does not have a Kamm tail, it isn't cut off short enough (or at the correct angle) to be anything like a Kamm tail.Aar0sc said:
and the 1500 engine - look after it and it's no less reliable than the others; much more torquey and has the highest top speed. They just don't rev as happily.
The 1500 is far closer to the failure line than is the 1300 large crank and really requires tri-metal big ends as well as an oil cooler. The 1300 large crank doesn't really rev any better than the 1500 owing to the heavy journal design common to both. The 1300 small crank (Spitfire MkIII revs far easier which is why it is the basis of all serious Spitfire race motors).Nor is the 1500 any faster than the MkIII.
It looks a bit kamm tailed :P
And the 1500 can do over 100; the Mk3 can't - but 0 - 60 the Mk3 is slightly quicker.
Edit: It would appear that you are a builder of race-spec Triumph engines. I bow down to you and agree consequentially with what you've said about the engines!
Edited by Aar0sc on Wednesday 3rd August 20:30
I'd like to butt in to this thread with my limited Spitfire knowledge and say that I have a 1500 and love it to bits. It's not like one model is going to be complete s
t and another a goose that lays golden eggs, is it? Just buy the one in the best condition you can afford, whatever it happens to be. That's what I did. You won't be bothered by a tiny difference in speed in these cars (don't tell anyone but they're not very fast anyway) and if you look after it reliability will follow.
t and another a goose that lays golden eggs, is it? Just buy the one in the best condition you can afford, whatever it happens to be. That's what I did. You won't be bothered by a tiny difference in speed in these cars (don't tell anyone but they're not very fast anyway) and if you look after it reliability will follow.Gassing Station | Triumph | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff