POR 15 Any long term results

[Graham]

Hi, all my chassis should be going for blasting this week once dismantled and im looking at coatings.. I dont fancy powder coat, electro coating costs more than a new chassis, galv needs lots of holes drilling so its looking like POR-15 os something similar. I've seen plenty of threads where people have used por15 how does it last. is it really impact resistant, or does it still start to flake and come off after a few years.


are there any better alternatives?

Cheers


Graham

[FlipFlopGriff]

Graham,

We've used it on the wishbones which are in perfect condition after 6+ years of daily use. Its a bit dirty but underneath the paint is the same as the day is was covered. I paint everything metal with it now - just done a cast iron water hopper, the ultimate test. Metal gate next.

In fact there is some on the rear wishbones of the ocean haze Griff at Jamie's but that's only been on 18 months.

FFG

[Mad Mark]

I just bought some of this as it was recommended on PH
http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cna...
But not used it yet. They got plenty of other products for various types of applications.

[slideways]

I have just bought some POR15 Black velvet exhaust manifold paint for my boat, salt water and extreme heat If it works then it will get used on my chassis

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Had mine on now for a few years, there was one or two very small bits where it did not seem to stick ok, but 99% of it stuck very well and no more has come off, and I've been in a few gravel traps, and a bit of off roading at Rockingham.

Oh a few bits have come off where it's been jacked up and hit with the jack.

I think it would have stuck better if I used primer 1sr and not painted direct to bare metal, its worse on the very new metal, it does say that on the tin though.

But the paint is very tough, but your need to do prep-work if you want it to stick 100%.

[JohnFF]

When buying a car, galv or electro is a big plus for me. The holes needed for galv are presumably to get the zink inside and let it drain out. POR15 or powder coat won't go inside. Zink repairs its self when damaged on small areas. Most rot boxes in scrap yards have >95% ok, so those small areas of POR15 that came off worry me. No one can ever be totally perfect with their prep.

[mike.williams]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Graham,
I paint everything metal with it now - just done a cast iron water hopper, the ultimate test. Metal gate next.
FFG

I thought this stuff was UV sensitive? Not a problem for a chassis, but gates I would have thought would be a test..

[Spitfire2]

mike.williams said:

I thought this stuff was UV sensitive? Not a problem for a chassis, but gates I would have thought would be a test..

Correct - it needs overpainted if its going to be exposed to the sun for long periods.

[heightswitch]

Graham said:

Hi, all my chassis should be going for blasting this week once dismantled and im looking at coatings.. I dont fancy powder coat, electro coating costs more than a new chassis, galv needs lots of holes drilling so its looking like POR-15 os something similar. I've seen plenty of threads where people have used por15 how does it last. is it really impact resistant, or does it still start to flake and come off after a few years.


are there any better alternatives?

Cheers


Graham

Just get it powder coated properly graham??

IE Blasted at the same location as the powder coating plant
then pre warmed in the oven and zinc powdered
then cured
Then warmed again in the oven and colour powdered to your chosen colour which blends with the zinc coating.

example...







Powder coating done at a proper place specialising in powder coating cannot ever be compared to TVR factory applied powder coating which always was crap.

This company is about the best around. Speak to Bill and tell him I sent you

http://www.bettablast.co.uk/bettablast/home.html

N.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Spitfire2 said:

Correct - it needs overpainted if its going to be exposed to the sun for long periods.

It's only the colour that's UV sensitive, so if your not too bothered about a slight colour change over time, then you don't need to worry.

Re-Prep, if the chassis has been blasted then your going to get the very small problems I had.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Leigh,
Agreed. They recommend (to cover their ass I suspect - it is a US company and we know how tick the septics can be) overpainting but as its a gate and cast iron rain water hopper I'm not too fussed about slight discolouration as they will go green with all the trees over time anyway - more concerned about long term protection. I've got loads to do on the house so only got time to do any job once. I'm not in the "its like painting the Forth Road Bridge" camp.

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/POR15Applicatio...

FFG

[Graham]

Spent the day googling por-15 / powder coat etc etc... still no idea what to use... lots of posts with por-15 flaking randomly.... and i've never had much luck with powder coat... arghhhh


Chassis is ready for blasting now too...

[GG33]

I think POR is better and far more durable than powder coating provided you do the prep exactly as recommended.

GG

[dbv8]

2 basecoats then 2 coats of 'Stirling Silver'
I used POR15 on the wishbones but hammerite on top for contrast.

Edited by dbv8 on Tuesday 19th April 12:37

[gavgavgav]

Used por15 in the engine bay a few years ago, I assumed that it would not need painting on top, but it went yellow within a few months. Second attempt with the Stirling silver on top has proved much better.

[Graham]

dbv8 said:

2 basecoats then 2 coats of 'Stirling Silver'
I used POR15 on the wishbones but hammerite on top for contrast.

did you have it shot blasted, first and did you use any of the por prep stuff i.e marine clean and metal prep?

Cheers

Graham

[FlipFlopGriff]

Graham,
If you get it shot blasted then that will provide a rough surface which is ideal for the paint to key so should provide the best results. It is less efficient on flat, new metal.
I looked at galvanising a Taimar Chassis in the very early 90's but couldn't get a guarantee it wouldn't distort. Unfortunately, POR wasn't about then, nor the internet, nor mobile phones (other than concrete block ones)!!
FFG

[dbv8]

Graham said:

dbv8 said:

2 basecoats then 2 coats of 'Stirling Silver'
I used POR15 on the wishbones but hammerite on top for contrast.

did you have it shot blasted, first and did you use any of the por prep stuff i.e marine clean and metal prep?

Cheers

Graham

The whole chassis was shotblast and the outriggers were slightly 'weathered' before i painted. I bought the metal ready but never used it. Got a large tub of the stuff unopened.

[Graham]

So far it doesnt look like I'll need any new metal subject of course to what blasting shows up, but so far my trusty chisel and hammer hasnt found anything.


reading through a lot of reports it does seem preparation is a bit of a lottery... some who just slap it on have been fine, and others that use all the prep have had problems arghhh..


one more question how much por-15 and por-15 top coat did you use on the chim chassis and how many coats?

[dbv8]

IIRC
6 small tins of base and 1 tin of silver is enough for 2 coats of each.

I think thats right. I know i spent just over £100 including the unused metal ready.