Oh dear must get a move on!
Discussion
I just had some free time at work so compiled this....
Engine
1. Drop engine into the chassis and fit mounts.
2. Fit trigger wheel to main pulley assembly.
3. Fit new front crank oil seal and pulley assembly.
3. Fit new rear crank oil seal and flywheel.
4. Refit and centre clutch assembly.
5. Tap plenum base, clean and fit nitrous.
6. Finish porting on inlet manifold.
7. Send injectors away to be ultrasonically cleaned.
8. Remove a/c mounting parts from alternator bracket and polish.
9. Clean alternator and fit.
10. Slot lower rear exhaust manifold flanges.
11. Port match exhaust manifolds to heads.
12. Add more camlube and oil all parts.
13. Fit valley gasket and inlet manifold.
14. Polish rocker covers and fit.
15. Fit refurbished injectors and fuel rail.
16. Fit trumpet base and spacer.
17. Mock up plenum, design and make brackets for nitrous distribution blocks.
18. Fit plenum.
19. Wrap starter motor with heat shield and refit.
Drivetrain
1. Clean and fit bellhousing to gearbox.
2. Fit modified pivot arm and release bearing.
3. Mount gearbox to engine and chassis.
4. Fill gearbox with new oil.
5. Remove differential and send to Kasey for refurb and to fit new gears.
6. Strengthen diff mounting plates.
7. Refit diff and fill with new oil.
8. Fit propshaft.
Brakes
1. Secure brake lines to chassis.
2. Clean, paint and fit front callipers.
3. Fit front Goodrich hoses.
4. Fit handbrake lever and new warning switch
Bodywork
1. Drill out old bonnet hinges.
2. Fibreglass in new bonnet hinges, tidy and paint.
3. Finish heatshield lining and painting engine bay.
Fuel
1. Have 2nd outlet fitted to tank.
2. Drill 2nd opening in boot and refit tank. (may have to do after body drop)
3. Mount 2nd fuel pump and filter.
4. Run new fuel lines and secure to chassis.
Misc
1. Fit speed sensor and wire.
2. Tap out earth points on chassis
and this is all before refitting the body!
Engine
1. Drop engine into the chassis and fit mounts.
2. Fit trigger wheel to main pulley assembly.
3. Fit new front crank oil seal and pulley assembly.
3. Fit new rear crank oil seal and flywheel.
4. Refit and centre clutch assembly.
5. Tap plenum base, clean and fit nitrous.
6. Finish porting on inlet manifold.
7. Send injectors away to be ultrasonically cleaned.
8. Remove a/c mounting parts from alternator bracket and polish.
9. Clean alternator and fit.
10. Slot lower rear exhaust manifold flanges.
11. Port match exhaust manifolds to heads.
12. Add more camlube and oil all parts.
13. Fit valley gasket and inlet manifold.
14. Polish rocker covers and fit.
15. Fit refurbished injectors and fuel rail.
16. Fit trumpet base and spacer.
17. Mock up plenum, design and make brackets for nitrous distribution blocks.
18. Fit plenum.
19. Wrap starter motor with heat shield and refit.
Drivetrain
1. Clean and fit bellhousing to gearbox.
2. Fit modified pivot arm and release bearing.
3. Mount gearbox to engine and chassis.
4. Fill gearbox with new oil.
5. Remove differential and send to Kasey for refurb and to fit new gears.
6. Strengthen diff mounting plates.
7. Refit diff and fill with new oil.
8. Fit propshaft.
Brakes
1. Secure brake lines to chassis.
2. Clean, paint and fit front callipers.
3. Fit front Goodrich hoses.
4. Fit handbrake lever and new warning switch
Bodywork
1. Drill out old bonnet hinges.
2. Fibreglass in new bonnet hinges, tidy and paint.
3. Finish heatshield lining and painting engine bay.
Fuel
1. Have 2nd outlet fitted to tank.
2. Drill 2nd opening in boot and refit tank. (may have to do after body drop)
3. Mount 2nd fuel pump and filter.
4. Run new fuel lines and secure to chassis.
Misc
1. Fit speed sensor and wire.
2. Tap out earth points on chassis
and this is all before refitting the body!
Engine
1.Drop engine into the chassis and fit mounts.
2.Fit trigger wheel to main pulley assembly.
3.Fit new front crank oil seal and pulley assembly.
3.Fit new rear crank oil seal and flywheel.
4.Refit and centre clutch assembly.
5.Tap plenum base, clean and fit nitrous injectors.
6.Finish porting on inlet manifold.
7. Send injectors away to be ultrasonically cleaned.
8. Remove a/c mounting parts from alternator bracket and polish.
9. Clean alternator and fit.
10. Slot lower rear exhaust manifold flanges.
11. Port match exhaust manifolds to heads.
12.Add more camlube and oil all parts.
13.Fit valley gasket and inlet manifold.
14. Polish rocker covers and fit.
15. Fit refurbished injectors and fuel rail.
16. Fit trumpet base and spacer.
17. Mock up plenum, design and make brackets for nitrous distribution blocks.
18. Fit plenum.
19.Wrap starter motor with heat shield and refit.
Drivetrain
1.Clean and fit bellhousing to gearbox.
2.Fit modified pivot arm and release bearing.
3.Mount gearbox to engine and chassis.
4. Fill gearbox with new oil.
5. Remove differential and send to Kasey for refurb and to fit new gears.
6. Strengthen diff mounting plates.
7. Refit diff and fill with new oil.
8. Fit propshaft.
Seem to find a host of other minor jobs that take up time but i am getting there
1.
2.
3.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7. Send injectors away to be ultrasonically cleaned.
8. Remove a/c mounting parts from alternator bracket and polish.
9. Clean alternator and fit.
10. Slot lower rear exhaust manifold flanges.
11. Port match exhaust manifolds to heads.
12.
13.
14. Polish rocker covers and fit.
15. Fit refurbished injectors and fuel rail.
16. Fit trumpet base and spacer.
17. Mock up plenum, design and make brackets for nitrous distribution blocks.
18. Fit plenum.
19.
Drivetrain
1.
2.
3.
4. Fill gearbox with new oil.
5. Remove differential and send to Kasey for refurb and to fit new gears.
6. Strengthen diff mounting plates.
7. Refit diff and fill with new oil.
8. Fit propshaft.
Seem to find a host of other minor jobs that take up time but i am getting there
Unless you have indexed them it will be very hit & miss due to the slop in the flange across the bolts. Making accurate alignment marks is tricky enough on the 'bench' I find 
..but I'm always a little dubious about 'opened out to gasket' comments, personally I can't see how you can precisely position gasket unless you blue & clamp? I suspect there have been a lot of quick & dirties which are as likely to yield negative outcomes if not careful or lucky.
..but I'm always a little dubious about 'opened out to gasket' comments, personally I can't see how you can precisely position gasket unless you blue & clamp? I suspect there have been a lot of quick & dirties which are as likely to yield negative outcomes if not careful or lucky.
Would blueprinting the exhaust manifolds to the heads gain much?
All i concerned myself with on the manifolds is simply that the ports in the manifold are going to be larger slightly than the port from the head.
A slight step isnt such a bad thing and can help reduce back pressure in extreme cases.
As long as there isnt a step in the important direction then that will be enough for me at this time.
You know i dont have the time to perfect every job.
All i concerned myself with on the manifolds is simply that the ports in the manifold are going to be larger slightly than the port from the head.
A slight step isnt such a bad thing and can help reduce back pressure in extreme cases.
As long as there isnt a step in the important direction then that will be enough for me at this time.
You know i dont have the time to perfect every job.
Without accurate alignment, particularly on the BV ports BTW, I can't see how you can predict which way the step is..
The immediate bend in the manifold and the way the pipe is joined to the flange are like a reversion step anyway IMHO, so I tend to think its a bit of a misnomer in the case of TVRs.
The immediate bend in the manifold and the way the pipe is joined to the flange are like a reversion step anyway IMHO, so I tend to think its a bit of a misnomer in the case of TVRs.
Which is the point I was making that it is necessary to create your own accurate alignment, I just use umpteen scribe marks so I can line up the flange in the same place every time, as well as dispensing with the unnecessary extra complication of gasket alignment (silicone instead). Proper studs even on slotted lower flange do actually seem to reduce the slop rather a lot BTW but still a good mm, they do however give you leverage & sufficient clamping to be able to align marks before fastening all up tight.
Derek.
I was going to go down the port matching route on the exhausts.
After measuring and matching the ports to manifolds I came to the conclusion there was nothing in it, (in my case).
This suited me as doing the top end was enough given limited time.
On reflection, looking at my results I'm glad I didn't bother.
Good luck with your jigsaw, seems never ending doesn't it.
I might do that one day if I could afford early retirement
.
I was going to go down the port matching route on the exhausts.
After measuring and matching the ports to manifolds I came to the conclusion there was nothing in it, (in my case).
This suited me as doing the top end was enough given limited time.
On reflection, looking at my results I'm glad I didn't bother.
Good luck with your jigsaw, seems never ending doesn't it.
I might do that one day if I could afford early retirement
.My to do list is small compared to yours :-)
Fix idle!!!!!!!!!!
Time engine properly
Dyno run
Fit anti roll bar links and bushes
Make windows work better!
Fit 4 pot cossie brakes and lines
Fit lupo lights
Paint front of car
Find and buy decent seat and harness
Edit - and find a spare week of my life so I can talk to dvla to sort plate out
Fix idle!!!!!!!!!!
Time engine properly
Dyno run
Fit anti roll bar links and bushes
Make windows work better!
Fit 4 pot cossie brakes and lines
Fit lupo lights
Paint front of car
Find and buy decent seat and harness
Edit - and find a spare week of my life so I can talk to dvla to sort plate out
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