92 Griff Dash fitting - Is there an easy way ? ! ?
Discussion
Just secured myself a really nice 4.0 Griff 
The dash is currently being refitted after being painted the same colour as the car. The garage owner who has worked on the car for many years is a good friend and tells me that the only way (without ruining the paint by welding/braizing) to refit the dash is to stick the lugs back onto the rear of the dash to hold the dials in place. He is having trouble making them stick !. Is there an easier way ?. I don't mind doing the sticking again, but I don't really want to start screwing through the dash.Cheers.
The dash is currently being refitted after being painted the same colour as the car. The garage owner who has worked on the car for many years is a good friend and tells me that the only way (without ruining the paint by welding/braizing) to refit the dash is to stick the lugs back onto the rear of the dash to hold the dials in place. He is having trouble making them stick !. Is there an easier way ?. I don't mind doing the sticking again, but I don't really want to start screwing through the dash.Cheers. Make sure the tabs are clean of old resin, clean the area on the back of the dash and refix with araldite.
The tabs are a pain, the dash may still have the pencil position marks from the factory, if not its a matter of using a gauge to make sure the position is correct.
Some of us are looking at getting recessed rings made to glue on the rear and still allow the clock to sit flush.
The tabs are a pain, the dash may still have the pencil position marks from the factory, if not its a matter of using a gauge to make sure the position is correct.
Some of us are looking at getting recessed rings made to glue on the rear and still allow the clock to sit flush.
I cleaned both the back of the dash and the tabs with emery to get the old kak off, then scored them both with a stanley knife to give the glue something to grab hold of.
Can't speak for the longevity of this though as I only did it last year, but both the speedo and light button 'bar' that I fixed are still good.
Can't speak for the longevity of this though as I only did it last year, but both the speedo and light button 'bar' that I fixed are still good.
Ant. said:
Make sure the tabs are clean of old resin, clean the area on the back of the dash and refix with araldite.
The tabs are a pain, the dash may still have the pencil position marks from the factory, if not its a matter of using a gauge to make sure the position is correct.
Some of us are looking at getting recessed rings made to glue on the rear and still allow the clock to sit flush.
Is the back of the dash steel? If so can't you find a local stud welding specialist and have them welded on as they should have been done in the factory? Any half decent local platers should be able to get you pointed in the right direction. The tabs are a pain, the dash may still have the pencil position marks from the factory, if not its a matter of using a gauge to make sure the position is correct.
Some of us are looking at getting recessed rings made to glue on the rear and still allow the clock to sit flush.
Yep the back of it is steel HRG and if I'd of had the opportunity I would probably gone for braizing the lugs on (well my dad would have he is old enough to have done that sort of thing back in the day), but the dash has just been painted so do not want to spoil it. I could got for the JB Weld as you mention 2MUNKYS but I'm not sure if that would cause the paint to bubble from the front - not sure how strong a compound the JB is. I'm going over to the garage to have a play on Thursday afternoon so need to make my mind up. Do you think the cold temperatue makes a difference to the araldite ?. The ones done when it was warmer have held - or it could be tha garage were getting fed up and rushed it a bit. Cheers - Mike.
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