'New' dash panel - cutting additional clock holes

[Pupp]

Aquired a spare veneered dash panel at the weekend for when the veneer finally drops off mine (normal crack and delamination above the heater control)... but need to add a couple of 52mm holes for additional clocks etc. Any bright ideas for cutting these without chimbling the veneer up? Dont fancy doing them with a tile rope saw, which was how I did the original dash (in situ)...

[miniman]

I would suggest a hole saw:



The challenge will be getting one with a fine enough pitch. I would put a layer of masking tape over the veneer and go very gently. I think honestly it will be a tall order without a specific tool. You could go for, say, a 48mm so that any damage can be removed by gradually enlarging the hole with a file.

[Ribol]

Having drilled two warning light holes in my dash...................

If you decide to go the hole saw route (I wouldn't) keep in mind that the heat generated going through the metal part can destroy the varnish further than a gauge bezel will cover.

I would drill as many tiny holes (less concentration of heat) as it takes and then join up the holes. Tidy up the large hole carefully with a file.

[spend]

Starrett hole saws worked fine for me, cooled them with compressed air as I did it and frequent lubrication (me & the cutter). I smack some nuts into softwood and let the pilot drill go into the nut to keep it centred. If they are 2" gauges you can get a hole punch which is a lot neater but I guess it won't work on the veneer;) Enlarging 52mm to 63mm can be a tad challenging (I used the wrong saw messing with my plastic test template )

I actually preferred to punch a hole and then adjust the dash to the exact centre I wanted, rather than relying on the hole saw pilot drill to be centred. I guess we all figure out different ways of doing things

[Fex2005]

simple job for cnc router i would think.

[2Munkys]

I put an extra hole in mine (1"). I drilled a series of small holes which were virtually adjoining then cut the connecting material with a needle file. The hole was made round with a file. It was the safest way in my view.

I did consider a piller drill and cone cutter but thought that might chip and crack the brittle veneer and lacquer.

[V8 GRF]

Nice to meet you Saturday, or was it Sunday anyway I'd go for a water jet cutter, no heat and very accurate.

[spend]

V8 GRF said:

I'd go for a water jet cutter, no heat and very accurate.

Bloomin things don't do a great job cutting parallel, but shouldn't matter on a thin section Wire erosion seems to be the way to get a straight cut if you need parts to mesh

[Pupp]

Cheers for the suggestions guys... initially thought water jet but was/am concerned that water will be forced into the steel/laminate join? I'm guessing laser is a no go due to heat?

Was really trying to avoid hand tools or punches if possible as, last time (although I got away with it), the edges did chip up quite badly and I was lucky that it did not show past the bezels...