Outriggers and Wishbones
Discussion
Over xmas I have been inspecting and painting the outriggers/chassis and wishbones on my chim. A little peeling paint but no serious problems as such. Rubbed down effected areas and painted over with Bilt and Hamber Electrox paint primer.
Anyway back to the point. Think most people on here will agree the problem areas are above the plates were the body of the car is bolted to the chassis. In between these areas on the chassis rails you can wrap emery cloth round the rail and remove any flaking paint. This can then be painted with a home made device bent to the correct radius.
What are people thoughts ref below:
If sometime in the near future you decide that you need to get into the areas above the chassis plates to rub down and paint why cant the existing plates be ground off with a small angle grinder and replaced after any work is carried out. This would make access to the top of the rails a lot easier
1. Inspect and decide to remove existing rusted plates.
2. Measure existing plate in situ and manufacture new plates from 1/8" mild steel.
3. Carefully remove existing plate/plates with angle grinder.
4. Carry out any work to existing rail tops ie rub down and paint.
5. Paint and protect the inside of the new plates and bolt in place.
6. Weld new plates to existing chassis rail and once cooled down paint and protect as required.
This seems a little easier than raising the body and would not be to difficult to a experienced DIYer.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Col
Happy New year by the way
Anyway back to the point. Think most people on here will agree the problem areas are above the plates were the body of the car is bolted to the chassis. In between these areas on the chassis rails you can wrap emery cloth round the rail and remove any flaking paint. This can then be painted with a home made device bent to the correct radius.
What are people thoughts ref below:
If sometime in the near future you decide that you need to get into the areas above the chassis plates to rub down and paint why cant the existing plates be ground off with a small angle grinder and replaced after any work is carried out. This would make access to the top of the rails a lot easier
1. Inspect and decide to remove existing rusted plates.
2. Measure existing plate in situ and manufacture new plates from 1/8" mild steel.
3. Carefully remove existing plate/plates with angle grinder.
4. Carry out any work to existing rail tops ie rub down and paint.
5. Paint and protect the inside of the new plates and bolt in place.
6. Weld new plates to existing chassis rail and once cooled down paint and protect as required.
This seems a little easier than raising the body and would not be to difficult to a experienced DIYer.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Col
Happy New year by the way
On my griffith it was the top of the tubes adjacent the plates that fell apart. I cant see how anything worthwhile can be achieved regarding protection of the steel without a body lift at least, unless the steels are in very good shape.
The Griff body removal was simple and took less than a weekend.
The Griff body removal was simple and took less than a weekend.
Don't know how different the Chim and Griff are to the S wrt body lifts, but you can achieve a 6" partial body lift on an S in about 3-4 hours which allows full access to the tops of all the lower tubes. I would have thought doing this once every 2 years was preferable than messing about with the chassis and risking setting the body shell alight.
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