A few pics of the Emerald build
A few pics of the Emerald build
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thenick

Original Poster:

4,027 posts

242 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
Just thought i'd stick a few photos up of how its going so far!


This is the best pic I could get of the sensor and it's bracket... Really should have got one before I put it back together!

Almost finished, needs a clean...

The engine bay in all its glory. The dizzy still needs to come out when I can get a dizzy bung and some of the coloured insulation tape needs covering in black as I ran out but it's pretty much there I think...

The coil bracket, still needs tighening up and the connectors insulating a bit better but it seems pretty solid and does the job well!

Another angle

And another...

And one more!

The AFM replacement and air temp sensor

Few pics of the car and inside... Yes I know the carpets are crap and need replacing and the whole thing needs a damn good clean!



The business end of the operation... Still need to wrap the new loom but must sort the purge valve and rev counter problems first!

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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Well done Nick..

Nearly there biggrin

350Matt

3,907 posts

309 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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Looking Good Nick

One thing don't ty-wrap plug leads together as it can cause interference and cross firing

I like your coil pack bracket I may well copy that for my own wink

How are you going to mount the ECU?

thenick

Original Poster:

4,027 posts

242 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
Good point... I have only put them as they are until its finished then was going to route them a bit neater. Whats the best way of routing them but not tying them together?

I haven't given mounting the ECU much thought yet but I guess it would probably go best in the same location as the old one down the side of the battery. The new loom seems to have a lot less in the way of random connectors and dead ends so it should end up a lot neater and will fit a lot better. One problem I can see though is routing the new loom from the bulkhead under the carpet to around the fusebox; it seems to have made the carpet stick out a bit further than before so the carpet panel won't now fit. I guess this will just mean jiggling the whole thing around until it seats a bit better but it looks like one of those easy jobs that will end up being a bit of a PITA!

Pupp

12,971 posts

302 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
Nick, can't quite see how the coil pack bracket locates (or what to), also, where did you install your WB sensor (I had assumed you had an ACT Y decat piece with TVR manifolds)?

Hope mine ends up as tidy! smile

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
You can get small plug lead separators.. some can be screwed to something .. others are not.



More flashy..

thenick

Original Poster:

4,027 posts

242 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
Pupp said:
Nick, can't quite see how the coil pack bracket locates (or what to), also, where did you install your WB sensor (I had assumed you had an ACT Y decat piece with TVR manifolds)?

Hope mine ends up as tidy! smile
Hi Gary,

I do have the ACT decat Y piece, the lambda is mounted just after the y. You can't see it in the pictures, but its just to the right of the extra boss in the first pic (I put 2 as the RR place said they would like to put one of their own in as well (although they now say they'd prefer to put one in each bank in place of the old ones so I didn't really need it anyway)!

The coil bracket as you can see is just an L shape, on the back side it has two holes in it which mount on the two holes in the plenum base where those two vaccum pipes attach. I just put a washer in front of it and screwed the pipe fitting in on top to secure the bracket. Then for extra support, there is another metal strip which you can just see attaches to the bottom bolt nearest to the camera on the first coil pic. This makes a twist downwards and mounts under ones of the existing fuel rail mounting bolts (it has a bend at the bottom with a hole in it). Even though its not fully tightened yet it doesn't move when the engine is running and is solid when you push it so i'm pretty sure its not going anywhere... I might have to loosen it all off to tighten the rear nuts so if I do i'll try and get some better photos!

Rev, where would one aquire these spacers??

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
I found them here :

http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/shops/Rat_Sport/...

I'm sure others sell plastic versions..

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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Demon Tweeks do some nice anodised Ali ones.

eliot

11,995 posts

284 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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is that my 72 plenum on there?

Talkwrench

910 posts

263 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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Best not to use metal lead spacers, ally or otherwise. They can promote crossfiring just as readily as tying all the leads together in a tight bunch!
Plastic really is the best solution.

thenick

Original Poster:

4,027 posts

242 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
Hi Eliot, yes that's your plenum - works a treat thanks! Still needs the idle screw setting but it's going in for its RR session tomorrow so i'm sure the guy will do it then. On the spacer front, I went round to Tim's (ACT) earlier and picked up some plastic ones and a new set of B7ECS plugs to go in once the car has stopped running so rich.

trackcar

6,453 posts

256 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
quotequote all
Do you really still get cross firing on modern HT leads? I can't remember the last time I had symptoms like cross firing! time for better leads if that's the real situation methinks.

GreenV8S

31,021 posts

314 months

Wednesday 9th January 2008
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Not seen real cross firing, but anything that pinches or chafes the insulation makes it more likely that it will eventually break down at that point.

Talkwrench

910 posts

263 months

Wednesday 9th January 2008
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Crossfiring is highly unlikely with modern leads but as GreenV8 says, if the leads get damaged by pinching or chafing, then this can be the start of potential problems. The likes of Magnecor or Castle Race leads are very unlikely to ever cause a problem.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Friday 18th July 2008
quotequote all
Hi Nick,

A few questions for you, did you leave the Coil to ECU resister connected or did you take it out.
Also what wires did you use to connect to the dissy is it an Inductive pickup.

One last one, did you use the TVR/LR TPS or the Emerald one. if the TVR one you know what wires go where.

Thanks
Leigh

p.s. see you at Anglesey.

Johno

8,593 posts

312 months

Friday 18th July 2008
quotequote all
[quote=TVRleigh_BBWR]

Did you leave the Coil to ECU resister connected or did you take it out.

Also what wires did you use to connect to the dissy is it an Inductive pickup.

One last one, did you use the TVR/LR TPS or the Emerald one. if the TVR one you know what wires go where.

{/quote]

Are you using coil packs or single coil ?

Are you not junking the dizzy and using a crank sensor for pick up ?

You can use the std TP, but I would buy a new one. With an aftermarket ECU set up the TP output is much more critical than with the Lucas set up. At least get it checked to make sure it's output is good.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Friday 18th July 2008
quotequote all
Johno said:
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Did you leave the Coil to ECU resister connected or did you take it out.

Also what wires did you use to connect to the dissy is it an Inductive pickup.

One last one, did you use the TVR/LR TPS or the Emerald one. if the TVR one you know what wires go where.

{/quote]

Are you using coil packs or single coil ?

Are you not junking the dizzy and using a crank sensor for pick up ?

You can use the std TP, but I would buy a new one. With an aftermarket ECU set up the TP output is much more critical than with the Lucas set up. At least get it checked to make sure it's output is good.
Well I'll be going Coil packs eventualy, but want to start with just the dissy, as I've currently got a temp engine with a dissy and 14CUX installed. the trigger wheel is on the other engine.

the TPS is brand new, so not a problem, I do have the Emerald one also, but told they don't fit on the LR spindle.

thenick

Original Poster:

4,027 posts

242 months

Friday 18th July 2008
quotequote all
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Hi Nick,

A few questions for you, did you leave the Coil to ECU resister connected or did you take it out.
Also what wires did you use to connect to the dissy is it an Inductive pickup.

One last one, did you use the TVR/LR TPS or the Emerald one. if the TVR one you know what wires go where.

Thanks
Leigh

p.s. see you at Anglesey.
Hi there mate,

God my car's changed a bit since then looking at those photos! Got a custom made proper coil pack bracket which looks much better, tidyed up the HT leads, new carpets, wheels etc!

In response to your questions:

I didn't use the coil or dizzy at all, going straight to a wasted spark setup so I pretty much just ripped out all of the old wiring. I only left the dizzy in until I could get a bung for the hole which has now been done and my power steering resevoir is now in its place...

TPS wise, I used the TVR one as it was in good nick. I can't remember which is which but it's quite easy to work out from the diagram in the bible. IIRC, the middle wire is the signal and either side are + and - but I can't remember which was round. I think the wires were red blue and green on mine so it would have been red=+ green=sig blue=-

Sorry I can't be of more help but you can have a look at mine at Anglesey if you like? I'm just about to set off from Norfolk, its going to be a hell of a long drive :-s

Johno

8,593 posts

312 months

Friday 18th July 2008
quotequote all
[quote=thenick I'm just about to set off from Norfolk, its going to be a hell of a long drive :-s
[/quote]

Did that in May . . . Yes, it's a bloody long drive !