Discussion
No, I think you'll find waxoyle is pretty tough stuff. I had mine done by Austec, including a full chassis prep three years ago. I mist it with a mixture of white spirit and waxoyle every six months and every time I check the chassis there still seems to be plenty of the stuff on there. Once it has dried it sticks and takes some effort to remove. Well worth having it done in my opinion.
Edited by V8 Devil on Monday 31st December 09:32
GALLARDOGUY said:
how much does this cost?
All depends on where you have it done. TVR specialists charge around the £200 mark. I had mine done a few days ago at a local garage and family friend. He cleaned, dried and then sprayed the chassis with the Waxoyl I bought........Waxoyl = £19.99
Garage labour = £40
Saving your PJ's chassis = Priceless
Jason
Seasider said:
woolleson said:
Saving your PJ's chassis = Priceless
Covering any metal worm underneath isn't 
While it will delay the rot if the paint underneath isn't airtight sooner or later the outriggers will still corrode
That said, when I've finished de-rusting and repainting mine I will still put some above the outriggers where you can't easily inspect, but it will be over the top of a sealed paint finish.
Use the clear Waxoyl as it means a) you can still see any problems with the metal underneath rather than just covering it up, plus b) will help when you come to sell as potential buyers will also be able to see nice unrusty metalwork under the clear Waxoyl, rather than half a tonne of black crap all over the metal.
Before you Waxoyl you should clean the underside to remove any salt and road crud, then leave it in a heated garage overnight if you can to dry it off properly. Then get underneath it with a stiff wirebrush and scrub off any flaking powdercoat, check the condition of the metal and then proceed to drench yourself, your garage, your lungs and your car with waxy, oily vapour. Hence a respirator is a brilliant investment! Then give the old girl a really hot wash with a couple of buckets of very hot soapy water to clear any vapourised waxy residue that has settled on your windows/bodywork. Try to avoid opening the doors or dropping the windows in any way before this, as otherwise you'll end up with the waxy residue on the glass rubbers and it'll streak down the glass slightly every time your lower/raise the windows for quite a while afterwards.
Before you Waxoyl you should clean the underside to remove any salt and road crud, then leave it in a heated garage overnight if you can to dry it off properly. Then get underneath it with a stiff wirebrush and scrub off any flaking powdercoat, check the condition of the metal and then proceed to drench yourself, your garage, your lungs and your car with waxy, oily vapour. Hence a respirator is a brilliant investment! Then give the old girl a really hot wash with a couple of buckets of very hot soapy water to clear any vapourised waxy residue that has settled on your windows/bodywork. Try to avoid opening the doors or dropping the windows in any way before this, as otherwise you'll end up with the waxy residue on the glass rubbers and it'll streak down the glass slightly every time your lower/raise the windows for quite a while afterwards.
woolleson said:
GALLARDOGUY said:
how much does this cost?
All depends on where you have it done. TVR specialists charge around the £200 mark. I had mine done a few days ago at a local garage and family friend. He cleaned, dried and then sprayed the chassis with the Waxoyl I bought........Waxoyl = £19.99
Garage labour = £40
Saving your PJ's chassis = Priceless
Jason
each job is different!
Edited by Columbo on Sunday 30th December 21:12
Jim27 said:
Use the clear Waxoyl as it means a) you can still see any problems with the metal underneath rather than just covering it up, plus b) will help when you come to sell as potential buyers will also be able to see nice unrusty metalwork under the clear Waxoyl, rather than half a tonne of black crap all over the metal.
So after a few hundred miles the nice clear wax-oil wont be covered in road crime/dust/crap? & you will be able to inspect the chassis as well as you could a well looked after (prep-ed & painted where necessary) one ??Columbo said:
woolleson said:
GALLARDOGUY said:
how much does this cost?
All depends on where you have it done. TVR specialists charge around the £200 mark. I had mine done a few days ago at a local garage and family friend. He cleaned, dried and then sprayed the chassis with the Waxoyl I bought........Waxoyl = £19.99
Garage labour = £40
Saving your PJ's chassis = Priceless
Jason
each job is different!
Edited by Columbo on Sunday 30th December 21:12
Seasider said:
Jim27 said:
Use the clear Waxoyl as it means a) you can still see any problems with the metal underneath rather than just covering it up, plus b) will help when you come to sell as potential buyers will also be able to see nice unrusty metalwork under the clear Waxoyl, rather than half a tonne of black crap all over the metal.
So after a few hundred miles the nice clear wax-oil wont be covered in road crime/dust/crap? & you will be able to inspect the chassis as well as you could a well looked after (prep-ed & painted where necessary) one ??I'll find out how well it's stood up when I put the old girl back up on axle stands in the summer to clean underneath and inspect after 6 months of everyday use following a fully WaxOyling. I'd imagine though that most of the road grime/dust/crap will rinse off much more easily than the WaxOyl will, so you should be able to rinse off the underside with a low pressure hose without compromising the WaxOyl.
But as like everything, it's a learning curve. I'm only passing on what I know from personal experience (i.e. it's horrid stuff so buy a respirator) and have been told by those with experience (TrackVRoad). If prep and paint is so great why are so many Cerbs rotting underneath? I also think that paint has a drawback in that if it's peppered with small stones it will eventually chip, leading to rust. The semi-liquid stuff like WaxOyl and Schultz seems to have more of a physically (as well as corrosive) protective characteristic, making it more suitable for the underside of a car which will inevitably get a battering from stones.
That's my two penn'orth anyway. Only trying to help.
Columbo said:
woolleson said:
GALLARDOGUY said:
how much does this cost?
All depends on where you have it done. TVR specialists charge around the £200 mark. I had mine done a few days ago at a local garage and family friend. He cleaned, dried and then sprayed the chassis with the Waxoyl I bought........Waxoyl = £19.99
Garage labour = £40
Saving your PJ's chassis = Priceless
Jason
each job is different!
Edited by Columbo on Sunday 30th December 21:12
I agree with the clear option, mine has had this from the start and it doesn't "mask" any inherent problems underneath. Ricky said it was a pain to spray due to the cold weather and recommend doing it as summer fades and before the temperature drops. Helps the sprayer and the car gets coated before the roads bring on there nasties.
Another thing be warned your car will stink for days later..............................
Jason
I stand the can of clear waxoil in a bucket of just boiled water for half and hour before spraying and keep boiling the kettle to top up as i spray.
It's wax so it won't flow when cold.
This helps the application and stops the nozzle blocking on the gun.
The clear stuff does stay failrly clean on a chassis and can be steam cleaned off for inspection every so often.
The clear stuff is a bit less viscous and seems to be able to "heal" around any future small stone chips.
Get plenty latex gloves and old rags before you start and put a sheet underneath to catch the drips.
I like the smell afterwards makes me feel all self congratulatory and smug!
It's wax so it won't flow when cold.
This helps the application and stops the nozzle blocking on the gun.
The clear stuff does stay failrly clean on a chassis and can be steam cleaned off for inspection every so often.
The clear stuff is a bit less viscous and seems to be able to "heal" around any future small stone chips.
Get plenty latex gloves and old rags before you start and put a sheet underneath to catch the drips.
I like the smell afterwards makes me feel all self congratulatory and smug!
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