Anyone know what thread the otter switch is on a V8S?
Anyone know what thread the otter switch is on a V8S?
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Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Nuff said.....

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Is it the big one the same as the Griff and Chim's
If so I have a spare at home and well mesure it tonight.

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
I think so - and having used Mr Google I think it is 22mm thread.
I now need a 22mm brass nut.

  • edited to say its 22x1.5 which I understand is a finer metric thread.
More on the plot here......

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 4th October 17:58

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Leven do a cooling kit that has a lower temp otter and stat. at a fair price.
I'll double check the thread tonight plus also use a thead gauge and let you know the thread gauge.

Do you not have a otter switch in the Rad on the V8S.

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
No the otter switch is on a horizontal cooling pipe that goes to the top radiator union.
I'll go and look at the leven kit

Cheers

Chris

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Just checked and it is 22mm x 1.5

You could flatter a section of pipe and solder a copper disc to the hose then drill and tap it.

Also your need tighten it up to 25-30 lb sq ft. for it to be air tight, this is using a ali crush washer.

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Thanks for that - much appreciated.

Look at link above - the angle isn't that great but I've fitted a copper T with an endcap - the plan was to drill the endcap then solder a nut to the end with the right thread. Just not so sure a brass nut in this thread is easy or possible to get now.
I've orientated the otter switch a bit differently to before - I don't want to get an airlock where the otter switch is with there being a bigger volume under the switch there's more potential with the copper pipe.

Been browsing - it seems that M22x1.5 is a thread size used in hydraulics - so the answer may be to get a brass hydraulic fitting in this thread and hacksaw it to get what I want. Seems feasible.
Its been a bit of an adventure but now I think it would have been easier just to buy some stainless pipes..........

Chris

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Well you could use any metal nut of 22 x 1.5 mm and then make a 22mm hole in the end cap. then screw the otter switch into the nut of the other side. you woul dont need to solder it in. as the copper would perform the seal due to the pressure when you tighten the nut. this would have to be done with the end cap off. then once air tight solder the end cap on.

Hope this makes sense.

Only problem with this is you would not be able to take the otter out. without unsoldering the end cap.

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Well you could use any metal nut of 22 x 1.5 mm and then make a 22mm hole in the end cap. then screw the otter switch into the nut of the other side. you woul dont need to solder it in. as the copper would perform the seal due to the pressure when you tighten the nut. this would have to be done with the end cap off. then once air tight solder the end cap on.

Hope this makes sense.

Only problem with this is you would not be able to take the otter out. without unsoldering the end cap.
I did consider soldering the otter switch directly into the hole - the problem is the middle bit of the otter switch is plastic so I doubt it would survive the heat.

My thoughts are that the otter switch won't react fast enough unless the brass is in the waterflow ? I've considered fixing it to the end cap physically - maybe with a jubilee clip - but thought that the heat soak would take too long and in the meantime the engine goes pop.

GreenV8S

31,024 posts

314 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
If you're DIYing it then you could buy an aftermarket otter switch to go into any straight hose section? I think my adjustable inline one cost £20-£30 (don't remember) although I never used it in the end since I have a couple of the Mod-Wise adjustable ones.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Yes looked at various options - I've not given up yet on getting a threaded brass widget thingmybob to solder into the copper pipe, if that doesn't come off I'll start investigating Plan B.
For now might just wire the fan on permananently till the tax expires at the end of the month. Then will SORN for a bit & am seriously considering a body off before I have to do it.

Chris

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 4th October 2007
quotequote all
Or you could use this.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RANGE-LAND-ROVER-V8-SD1-3-9-...

Or you may just want to fit a manual switch. else you may burn the fan motor out.