two speed cooling fans
Discussion
I have a griff 500 that has two speed cooling,half speed fans come on when the rad temp rises.Full speed comes on if half is not enough.The heat build up in the engine bay doesnt happen, nor the cars interior! The fans come on virtually as the cars speed slows. I believe chimps could also have the system, as the wiring is the same.I fitted it in ten mins.
Walter.
basically you plug in the device to the original fans plugs and sockets. My choice was to have an adjustable half speed temp cut in point,along with an adjustable full speeed cut in point as i thought the 96 original otter switch was a little high.So my adjustable stats are strapped to the outlet hose with a little heat sink compound to ensure a thermal coupling.If you are happy with the original otter temp then you could use it to revert to full speed fans. You could use a simple strap on half speed turn on stat, but i found the adjustable stat full control. As i mentioned, it all just plugs in, no cutting or joining wires.
Any more questions please ask.
Is it home made? well,not exactly.I have my own company fiddling around in electronics but also have a griff and a related 4x4 ! And i noticed the griff got really quite hot,compared with the 4.6, not just under the bonnet.So i thought of the idea. I have enjoyed the quite simple device in my 2 griffs for the past 4 yrs. Ok,my one off took time to prepare, but given a little mass production advantage, the cost would be around the cost of a tank and a half of petrol.For the scarey,there are no electronics, just good old cloth cap logic,want to run at half speed, half the voltage. So, in half speed mode the fans are in series,ie fairy lamp, full speed, back to full voltage.The fail safe is if the first stage sensor fails,like 100,000 operations, then you have your normal tvr operation of the fans, ie, at the last moment, cool the engine.
Any more questions please ask away.Iam not in this to make money, i have a tvr!!!!!
Sounds like a match made in heaven I'd be emailing Clive at zertec sounds like a little gadget he could add to the range as he's already established in the marketing of Tiv bits. You may not be in it for the money but you can never say no. Oh yes do I get a small % for the suggestion
The cost is spec related,just the one 70 degree half speed sensor will save quite a bit.I originally used just that and the original otter to revert to full speed operation. The adjustable stats give more flexability but are not essential.For info, Kenlowe adjustable stat is nearly £40 ! I dont use those but capilary type still, but less than half the price and still way way over spec.So how much for the entry level,certainly less than £50. Labour is high because everything is soldered,not crimped,for reliability.If adjustable stats are required then they can be just plugged in.
As i mentioned it just plugs in, unplug otter switch,connect two leads,plug back otter. Unplug the fans, plug in relay assy, it is not possible miswire, reconnect fans. Strap new sensor to the outlet hose and thats it.
I know 70 sounds a little low to have half speed fans coming on. But that is strapped to the output from the rad !
I have a few made up already and the price is £50 inc vat. All i need to know is the polarity of the fans in regards to pin position as all TVRs are not the same, no really. ie the pins are arranged in a T shape, is the black wire at the top of the T,or the |, if you know what i mean.
Rich.
i have just said i will send you a pic of my Zertec front lights, but noticed you have an interest in two stage cooling fans and you are not a million miles away.I need a car for a freebee evaluation to give me confidence that it is as i believe, a great device. I can send the device to you.
Yeah or neah.E mail me directly.
David.
quote:
You state that you are soldering for reliability not crimping, I thought crimped connections are better for automotive use as vibrations involved affect soldered joints.
I solder connections wherever possible - corrosion is the big problem.
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
quote:
You state that you are soldering for reliability not crimping, I thought crimped connections are better for automotive use as vibrations involved affect soldered joints.
Also unless you use calibrated crimpers you cannot be sure that a good joint is made, and some crimp joints especially the ones that have corroded (and IDC connectors) act as a resistor.
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