Drive shaft boot replacement without removing the Driveshaft
Drive shaft boot replacement without removing the Driveshaft
Author
Discussion

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
I am sure I have heard of a way of doing this with some kind of split boot or something (both ends?)

Sure it is so obvious it is staring me in the face!!?

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
Maybe there is a more devious way involving a stanley knife and staples or summat, but the only way I know is to unbolt one end and take the CV off so you can slide the gators on to the half shaft.

old64er

1,388 posts

267 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
Dont bother with the split boots, they dont last.

Get a stretch boot and the funnel and the cv's can stay on.


>> Edited by old64er on Monday 17th April 19:22

trackcar

6,453 posts

255 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
but once you've undone the cv from the drive flange it's 30 seconds to get it off the shaft, it's one circlip!
if you can't do the whole job in half an hour you're not trying!

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
trackcar said:
but once you've undone the cv from the drive flange it's 30 seconds to get it off the shaft, it's one circlip!
if you can't do the whole job in half an hour you're not trying!

That's what I was going to say - it's hardly worth the grief of struggling for ages, when doing it the right way is actually quicker.

I remember reading years ago about a company selling boots that were split along one seam - so you wrapped it around and then sealed it with glue - but both edges of the boot had to be ABSOLUTELY clean and grease-free, or it just split and leaked. Again, I don't think it's worth cutting the corner - maybe on a car where boot replacement involves dismantling hubs etc but not on the normal TVR arrangement.

>> Edited by tvrgit on Monday 17th April 22:59

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
Seem all fair comment then - so what is the full process? Undo the large end nut? remove circlip - pull out drive shaft? (after removing the boots and then do in reverse?) Two of mine need doing. Nice weekend job....

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
jellison said:
Undo the large end nut?


No, unbolt the body of the CV from the flange.

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
Ok - will have a proper look later in the week.

Have to get that Bible! Not had to lay a spanner on it much lately.

rev-erend

21,619 posts

313 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
Sealey do a part called "Bootslider" BSL100 (20 ~ 95 mm) and BSL101 (25 ~ 105 mm) price will be £58 or £82 from Brown Brothers saves taking the shaft off the car.

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
saves taking the shaft off the car.

I don't see how you'd use that unless you disconnect one end or the other - and once you've done that, it only takes a couple of minutes to slip the CV off and fit the rubber boot.

billynomates

2,101 posts

265 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Brown Brothers


Got the mastic then have you?

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Sealey do a part called "Bootslider" BSL100 (20 ~ 95 mm) and BSL101 (25 ~ 105 mm) price will be £58 or £82 from Brown Brothers saves taking the shaft off the car.

It would take longer to go and buy that timesaving tool, than it would to remove the joint and change the boot "properly". As I said above, maybe worth it to save dismantling a hub etc but not for the TVR arrangement. I mean - 6 allen bolts and a circlip - how much easier does it get?

rev-erend

21,619 posts

313 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
tvrgit said:
rev-erend said:
Sealey do a part called "Bootslider" BSL100 (20 ~ 95 mm) and BSL101 (25 ~ 105 mm) price will be £58 or £82 from Brown Brothers saves taking the shaft off the car.

It would take longer to go and buy that timesaving tool, than it would to remove the joint and change the boot "properly". As I said above, maybe worth it to save dismantling a hub etc but not for the TVR arrangement. I mean - 6 allen bolts and a circlip - how much easier does it get?


I don't disagree with any of you.

80 quid is too much for a tool you probably only use once. He will be breaking shafts rather than wearing then out anyway

Phil - yes got the mastic.

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
I think I'll get 4 (got the bible finally) and either do it myself - yep obvious remove them now and do it properly - breaking shafts - er no way the wheel spin up saving load into the diff / driveshafts.

jonnyb

2,590 posts

281 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
If you dont want to do it, you should be able to take it to any Ford dealer and use their equvilent of "Master fit". Its all Ford running gear down there.

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
cool I'll get the boots in and mull it over or get my pet mechanic to do it with a diff oil change it needs now.

trackcar

6,453 posts

255 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
for someone who's supposedly built the best car TVR never made you're not filling me with confidence on your spanner wielding abilities!

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
Ya - was waiting for your helpful comments!

This is not what I do for a living! I had a quick look that is all I'm sure it is all piss easy.

Thankfully I am gradually weening myself off of PH bit by bit, at least the TVR bits anyway! Yep ALOT more to life. When are you gonna build something off the wall then Joolz - we are all waiting!

>> Edited by jellison on Wednesday 19th April 13:11

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
jellison said:
I breaking shafts - er no way the wheel spin up saving load into the diff / driveshafts.


You would think so, wouldn't you? But no, in practice you can still break the half shafts and the more power you have the more likely this is to happen. The weak point seems to be a stress raiser at the outer circlip groove which leads to fatigue failure.

jellison

Original Poster:

12,803 posts

306 months

Wednesday 19th April 2006
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
jellison said:
I breaking shafts - er no way the wheel spin up saving load into the diff / driveshafts.


You would think so, wouldn't you? But no, in practice you can still break the half shafts and the more power you have the more likely this is to happen. The weak point seems to be a stress raiser at the outer circlip groove which leads to fatigue failure.
Er I'll take it easy then!

Hope to have it all sorted for Abingdon! All this minor stuff below and the engine / box in and out new mega clutch and large bore hydrualic release hose (Mega power Holden / Vett problem that I have at VERY high revs!).