Stainless steel exhaust Manifold bolts
Stainless steel exhaust Manifold bolts
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seasider

Original Poster:

12,728 posts

278 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Just about to do the gaskets & Engine mounts again

So a simple one for you chaps Stainless steel Manifold bolts Yes or no?







stainless_steve

6,052 posts

287 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
no

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

289 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
stainless_steve said:
no


Why's that Steve? Some of the one's I've seen have smaller heads, 12 point iirc which makes them much easier to get a socket on.

Boosted.

crackedfinger

1,569 posts

258 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
if not - what are the best bolts to use? (Why not BTW?)

David H

809 posts

270 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
They can react with the aluminium and then be hard to get out again.

Although saying that I'm using them with no problems yet (turn out still no probs). But have only been in less than 6 months so can't properly tell yet.

seasider

Original Poster:

12,728 posts

278 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
David H said:
They can react with the aluminium and then be hard to get out again.

Although saying that I'm using them with no problems yet (turn out still no probs). But have only been in less than 6 months so can't properly tell yet.
I've also heard they can react but thought this was more in damp/marine conditions.



stainless_steve said:
no
Steve, if your saying no because of the reaction will they react if coated with Copper Grease?

stainless_steve

6,052 posts

287 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
With the heat involved with the heads stainless steel bolts can shear off.Couple of years ago a bloke brought me a head with this problem,i managed to drill it out for him luckily.If you want to dress up your engine bay use mild steel bolts chrome plated.

stainless_steve

6,052 posts

287 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:


Why's that Steve? Some of the one's I've seen have smaller heads, 12 point iirc which makes them much easier to get a socket on.

Boosted.


Mike,you should be able to buy the same type bolts in mild steel.Alen key type should be easy to use in tight spaces.

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

289 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
stainless_steve said:
Boosted LS1 said:


Why's that Steve? Some of the one's I've seen have smaller heads, 12 point iirc which makes them much easier to get a socket on.

Boosted.


Mike,you should be able to buy the same type bolts in mild steel.Alen key type should be easy to use in tight spaces.


I need socket heads as the header tubes prevent the use of allen keys. They must be available in mild steel. Thanks.

stainless_steve

6,052 posts

287 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
stainless_steve said:
Boosted LS1 said:


Why's that Steve? Some of the one's I've seen have smaller heads, 12 point iirc which makes them much easier to get a socket on.

Boosted.


Mike,you should be able to buy the same type bolts in mild steel.Alen key type should be easy to use in tight spaces.


I need socket heads as the header tubes prevent the use of allen keys. They must be available in mild steel. Thanks.




If your having problems i can give you my suppliers number,they do a good deal if you buy a box full.Based near Huddersfield,so postage might be an issue.

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

306 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Allen bolts are a no-no on many TVR's as there is very little clearance and some of the bolts are shrouded by the manifolds. Getting a spanner in is hard enough.

The ARP 12 point stainless bolts are a quality piece of kit. I seriously doubt they will shear - ARP rate them at 170,000 psi. They are less affected by extreme temperatures, so will stay where you put them, not loosen up and let your exhaust gaskets blow. Greased up with copaslip I can't see them seizing either. I'm using ARP bolts (stainless) throughout my engine build. I got them from here.

The corrosion problem many refer to is the other way round - alloy fasteners into sheet stainless, usually marine, when the fastener will corrode. Not really an issue with stainless fasteners into alloy - I've used them for almost 30 years now with no problems when lubed correctly.

stainless_steve

6,052 posts

287 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
victormeldrew said:
Allen bolts are a no-no on many TVR's as there is very little clearance and some of the bolts are shrouded by the manifolds. Getting a spanner in is hard enough.

The ARP 12 point stainless bolts are a quality piece of kit. I seriously doubt they will shear - ARP rate them at 170,000 psi. They are less affected by extreme temperatures, so will stay where you put them, not loosen up and let your exhaust gaskets blow. Greased up with copaslip I can't see them seizing either. I'm using ARP bolts (stainless) throughout my engine build. I got them from here.

The corrosion problem many refer to is the other way round - alloy fasteners into sheet stainless, usually marine, when the fastener will corrode. Not really an issue with stainless fasteners into alloy - I've used them for almost 30 years now with no problems when lubed correctly.


They are spot on,sorry i was in a rush and didn't explain myself.These bolts are high tensile bolts manufactured for the job.Please only use this type,if you go to a local Joe Bloggs bolt supplier and ask for stainless steel bolts,they will shear,it may take a while but they will.

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

289 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Thanks Steve. Oh, to stop yer bolts shearing, drill the manifold holes a bit bigger to give em room for expansion

Boosted.

seasider

Original Poster:

12,728 posts

278 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Thanks guys...

I'm not so much dressing the engine bay (yet) just wanted to use the best i could

Looks like i wont be using the Stainless ones i bought today


Cheers Victor will get my order in are the heads smaller than 14mm ?

>> Edited by seasider on Friday 31st March 21:20

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

289 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
seasider said:
Thanks guys...

Looks like i wont be using the Stainless ones i bought today


>> Edited by seasider on Friday 31st March 21:20


I'm going to use my stainless bolts which I got from Real Steal I'd use yours as well if I had them

Boosted.

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

306 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
seasider said:
Thanks guys...

I'm not so much dressing the engine bay (yet) just wanted to use the best i could

Looks like i wont be using the Stainless ones i bought today


Cheers Victor will get my order in are the heads smaller than 14mm ?

Yes they are! 3/8 inch, and with being 12 point a doddle with a ring spanner even on a Tiv.

tvrbob

11,197 posts

284 months

Friday 31st March 2006
quotequote all
Has anyone considered the issues with stst threads? They are very susceptible to binding. Small parts of the threads peel off and jam the thread, they are significantly more likely to sheer because they have far less elasticity than carbon steel. Just my two penny worth but fitting stst bolts into a system with a big heat cycle is something I would never do.

>> Edited by tvrbob on Friday 31st March 23:51

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

306 months

Saturday 1st April 2006
quotequote all
tvrbob said:
Has anyone considered the issues with stst threads? They are very susceptible to binding. Small parts of the threads peel off and jam the thread, they are significantly more likely to sheer because they have far less elasticity than carbon steel. Just my two penny worth but fitting stst bolts into a system with a big heat cycle is something I would never do.
Have you ever looked at the engines on drag racers? They have quite a heat cycle, and you'll find a majority of them held together with ARP stainless bolts. These are a long way from being the sort of s/s bolts you pick up off ebay for a tenner.