TVR Chimaera won't start
Discussion
Hi All,
New TVR owner in Canada here. I'm sure there are already 100 threads going on this topic, but wanted to start a new one to get some clear ideas together.
I have a 1999 TVR Chimaera 400 - it's been left 2 weeks after running perfectly without issue. Upon returning home, I went to fire up the car, and no such luck.
What does happen? The immobiliser seems to be alive, turning on and off as usual with the fob. There seems to be power coming from the battery, as the hazards still work, the headlights turn on etc.
HOWEVER - the fuel pump is not turning over as it usually would, and there's absolutely no action from the engine - no clicking, no starter motor, no sound of life at all.
I can here some 'electrical current' noises coming from the dashboard, and the battery light goes red on the dashboard.
Could it be that the battery is running low and simply doesn't have the power to get the fuel pump going? Or do we think something more sinister. I such at electrics - I know, ironic for a TVR owner, so - any help is appreciated!
Many thanks!
New TVR owner in Canada here. I'm sure there are already 100 threads going on this topic, but wanted to start a new one to get some clear ideas together.
I have a 1999 TVR Chimaera 400 - it's been left 2 weeks after running perfectly without issue. Upon returning home, I went to fire up the car, and no such luck.
What does happen? The immobiliser seems to be alive, turning on and off as usual with the fob. There seems to be power coming from the battery, as the hazards still work, the headlights turn on etc.
HOWEVER - the fuel pump is not turning over as it usually would, and there's absolutely no action from the engine - no clicking, no starter motor, no sound of life at all.
I can here some 'electrical current' noises coming from the dashboard, and the battery light goes red on the dashboard.
Could it be that the battery is running low and simply doesn't have the power to get the fuel pump going? Or do we think something more sinister. I such at electrics - I know, ironic for a TVR owner, so - any help is appreciated!
Many thanks!
The immobiliser and central locking are connected. Locking and unlocking the car does not necessarily mean the immobiliser is working correctly. If you have 12V plus at the battery, I suspect the immobiliser has failed. 
Do you have you have the small plastic key that goes into the slot to the right of the ignition switch on the dash? If the light on this is flashing, the immobiliser has not been deactivated. Pressing the fob into the slot and holding it a few seconds (this is in the owners manual) should produce a steady red led that then goes out. If you put the key in the ignition and turn it on within about 20 seconds, the immobiliser should have been disabled and the car should start.
Even if the car has had the alarm system replaced, this immobiliser bypass slot on the right of the ignition switch may still work, mine does.
Do you have you have the small plastic key that goes into the slot to the right of the ignition switch on the dash? If the light on this is flashing, the immobiliser has not been deactivated. Pressing the fob into the slot and holding it a few seconds (this is in the owners manual) should produce a steady red led that then goes out. If you put the key in the ignition and turn it on within about 20 seconds, the immobiliser should have been disabled and the car should start.
Even if the car has had the alarm system replaced, this immobiliser bypass slot on the right of the ignition switch may still work, mine does.
Thank you both - I just went out to tinker again, checked all the connections etc. and everything looks ok. However now, I'm barely getting any power to the dashboard.
I put the hazards on, and they clicked a little, sped up really fast, then went out. So I'm thinking it may be a battery issue and not the immobiliser? I'll get a voltage checker and give this a go.
I put the hazards on, and they clicked a little, sped up really fast, then went out. So I'm thinking it may be a battery issue and not the immobiliser? I'll get a voltage checker and give this a go.
miniman said:
First things first, get some strong power to it in the form of a new battery or a good boost pack.
What brand of alarm / immobiliser is on it?
This ^^^^^^What brand of alarm / immobiliser is on it?
Was the car left alarmed.
My car would drain the battery if it was alarmed and left standing, usually 2 weeks would be enough time to drain the battery.
A parasitic drain so to speak.
If you use the car regularly as in a daily driver or a few times a week then the battery would recharge and never fail.
As you have apparently had a new immobiliser fitted start here.
Put a good battery on the car, if that fails to energise the pump then press immobiliser and hold both relays that lie loose in the L/H footwell above the battery, one is for the fuel pump the other is for starter, if they both click and energise the immobiliser is working ok.
If a good battery does not result in the fuel pump priming then look at the fuel pump connections directly at the pump which is under the car behing the left rear wheel. Best to Jack the car up to gain access and if all good then test for power at those connections.
If no power then look for the fuel pump connector block in the left hand side door pillar area which is under a velcro’d flap above the seat belt reel. You might have to pull the door rubber away there to open the flap.
The connection there can corrode.
If they all appear ok then suspect fuel pump failure. Try testing it with a direct 12v power supply to hear it work.
If no joy it’s probably a failed pump but I think it’s probably just a dead battery.
Good luck.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Thursday 18th July 06:17
Jordie Barretts sock said:
And lastly, once you have got it started, invest in a battery conditioner such as Optimate or similar.
I would suggest your battery is flat and/or knackered.
I would suggest your battery is flat and/or knackered.
This too ^^^^^
Until then If I knew I’d not be using the car for awhile I’d just disconnect the battery. Most tea leaves wouldn’t know how to find the battery.
Very few cars have ever been stolen in the U.K. which is probably because thieves fear it might break down 100 yards up the road
Tvr reputation is sometimes a good thing
I’m not advising this approach but it’s sort of true.
BritishTvr450 said:
This ^^^^^^
Was the car left alarmed.
My car would drain the battery if it was alarmed and left standing, usually 2 weeks would be enough time to drain the battery.
A parasitic drain so to speak.
If you use the car regularly as in a daily driver or a few times a week then the battery would recharge and never fail.
As you have apparently had a new immobiliser fitted start here.
Put a good battery on the car, if that fails to energise the pump then press immobiliser and hold both relays that lie loose in the L/H footwell above the battery, one is for the fuel pump the other is for starter, if they both click and energise the immobiliser is working ok.
If a good battery does not result in the fuel pump priming then look at the fuel pump connections directly at the pump which is under the car behing the left rear wheel. Best to Jack the car up to gain access and if all good then test for power at those connections.
If no power then look for the fuel pump connector block in the left hand side door pillar area which is under a velcro’d flap above the seat belt reel. You might have to pull the door rubber away there to open the flap.
The connection there can corrode.
If they all appear ok then suspect fuel pump failure. Try testing it with a direct 12v power supply to hear it work.
If no joy it’s probably a failed pump but I think it’s probably just a dead battery.
Good luck.
This is terrific, thank you - I'll be getting to the charge and check of the battery today, and will keep you (and everyone else) updated over the weekend! Was the car left alarmed.
My car would drain the battery if it was alarmed and left standing, usually 2 weeks would be enough time to drain the battery.
A parasitic drain so to speak.
If you use the car regularly as in a daily driver or a few times a week then the battery would recharge and never fail.
As you have apparently had a new immobiliser fitted start here.
Put a good battery on the car, if that fails to energise the pump then press immobiliser and hold both relays that lie loose in the L/H footwell above the battery, one is for the fuel pump the other is for starter, if they both click and energise the immobiliser is working ok.
If a good battery does not result in the fuel pump priming then look at the fuel pump connections directly at the pump which is under the car behing the left rear wheel. Best to Jack the car up to gain access and if all good then test for power at those connections.
If no power then look for the fuel pump connector block in the left hand side door pillar area which is under a velcro’d flap above the seat belt reel. You might have to pull the door rubber away there to open the flap.
The connection there can corrode.
If they all appear ok then suspect fuel pump failure. Try testing it with a direct 12v power supply to hear it work.
If no joy it’s probably a failed pump but I think it’s probably just a dead battery.
Good luck.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Thursday 18th July 06:17
BritishTvr450 said:
This too ^^^^^
Until then If I knew I’d not be using the car for awhile I’d just disconnect the battery. Most tea leaves wouldn’t know how to find the battery.
Very few cars have ever been stolen in the U.K. which is probably because thieves fear it might break down 100 yards up the road
Tvr reputation is sometimes a good thing
I’m not advising this approach but it’s sort of true.
Hi All,
Major update - it was just a flat battery! Charged it overnight, TVR exploded into life like a racecar! Very happy.
Now - super 'newbie' question here... I bought a trickler to avoid having a full recharge issue again. Now - can I connect it to the battery with the battery still connected to the car? Or do I have to disconnect the battery from the car each time?
Many thanks again!
Jordan
Major update - it was just a flat battery! Charged it overnight, TVR exploded into life like a racecar! Very happy.
Now - super 'newbie' question here... I bought a trickler to avoid having a full recharge issue again. Now - can I connect it to the battery with the battery still connected to the car? Or do I have to disconnect the battery from the car each time?
Many thanks again!
Jordan
JAIrvine said:
I bought a trickler to avoid having a full recharge issue again
There are two types that look superficially similar and are easy to confuse.A trickle charger is a type of battery charger than charges a battery slowly, often with automatic cut-off when it detects the battery is fully charged. This is not what you want.
A battery maintainer is a type of battery charger that takes the battery through a cycle to fully charge it when it is initially connected. The cycle is typically a test phase to determine the state of charge of the battery, a current limited bulk charge, a voltage limited absorption phase, a step down to a lower voltage, and then finally a storage phase at even lower voltage. A good one will go through further maintenance cycles if they're left connected long term. This is what you want. The important thing here is not the oomph to charge the battery quickly, it's the smarts to avoid over charging and degrading the battery over the long term.
GreenV8S said:
There are two types that look superficially similar and are easy to confuse.
A trickle charger is a type of battery charger than charges a battery slowly, often with automatic cut-off when it detects the battery is fully charged. This is not what you want.
A battery maintainer is a type of battery charger that takes the battery through a cycle to fully charge it when it is initially connected. The cycle is typically a test phase to determine the state of charge of the battery, a current limited bulk charge, a voltage limited absorption phase, a step down to a lower voltage, and then finally a storage phase at even lower voltage. A good one will go through further maintenance cycles if they're left connected long term. This is what you want. The important thing here is not the oomph to charge the battery quickly, it's the smarts to avoid over charging and degrading the battery over the long term.
Thank you for the excellent advice! I bought a 2 Amp charger and maintainer, which should keep the battery good and will not overcharge it. The model I got should be good for our bitterly cold winters too! A trickle charger is a type of battery charger than charges a battery slowly, often with automatic cut-off when it detects the battery is fully charged. This is not what you want.
A battery maintainer is a type of battery charger that takes the battery through a cycle to fully charge it when it is initially connected. The cycle is typically a test phase to determine the state of charge of the battery, a current limited bulk charge, a voltage limited absorption phase, a step down to a lower voltage, and then finally a storage phase at even lower voltage. A good one will go through further maintenance cycles if they're left connected long term. This is what you want. The important thing here is not the oomph to charge the battery quickly, it's the smarts to avoid over charging and degrading the battery over the long term.
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