Engine running temps
Discussion
I'm a recent convert to the world of TVR's and have just bought a '95 Chim 400. I'm concerned that the engine appears to be running on the hot side (usually approx 90-95c on motorway and 95-100c in traffic). Is this fairly typical? If it is on the hot side, any suggestions for ways of bring temp down would be appreciated. Cheers.
Welcome to the madhouse Daniel 
Not had a Chim, but from my experience of Griffs and Cerbs your running temps are pretty much the norm (wait till you get it in the 110-115 spot
)
First point is that it is quite common for the temp gauge to over-read. A few have plugged the ECU into a laptop and found that whilst the temp guage was reading 100-105, the actual temperature was nearer 90-95 (this is true of cerbs, cant see why it wouldnt apply to chims?)
I believe there are various fixes for this, from race-type radiators, to upgraded cooling systems (twin fans)to something called (IIRC) Water Wetter?
Nick
Not had a Chim, but from my experience of Griffs and Cerbs your running temps are pretty much the norm (wait till you get it in the 110-115 spot
) First point is that it is quite common for the temp gauge to over-read. A few have plugged the ECU into a laptop and found that whilst the temp guage was reading 100-105, the actual temperature was nearer 90-95 (this is true of cerbs, cant see why it wouldnt apply to chims?)
I believe there are various fixes for this, from race-type radiators, to upgraded cooling systems (twin fans)to something called (IIRC) Water Wetter?
Nick
Doesn't apply to Cerbs, Tuscans, T350s. Totally different system to these cars.
This would be better off in the Chimp forum. Those are way too high temps if the guage is accurate. Check it with a IR thermometer.
The car should not ever get into the 100 mark if everything is OK. Stationary in traffic with fans on is around 90 ish. Moving on the motorway is around 80-90. Time to check it out.
This would be better off in the Chimp forum. Those are way too high temps if the guage is accurate. Check it with a IR thermometer.
The car should not ever get into the 100 mark if everything is OK. Stationary in traffic with fans on is around 90 ish. Moving on the motorway is around 80-90. Time to check it out.
You know, this might sound daft but occasionally my temp gauge rises by 10 degrees on the motorway at 70+
Now I don't know whats happening, but I've found that by turning the heater up and the blowers on, it very quickly drops back to 90. Strange, anyone know whats going on there? It only does it at high speed, and rarely.
Now I don't know whats happening, but I've found that by turning the heater up and the blowers on, it very quickly drops back to 90. Strange, anyone know whats going on there? It only does it at high speed, and rarely.
Could just be your temp sender. A new one is only about a tenner though is a bugger to get to in order to change. May be worth trying that first.
What temp do your fans come on at? Normally should be around 80 so if your guage is reading 90 or over when this happens then it could well be the temp sender.
What temp do your fans come on at? Normally should be around 80 so if your guage is reading 90 or over when this happens then it could well be the temp sender.
zippee said:
Could just be your temp sender. A new one is only about a tenner though is a bugger to get to in order to change. May be worth trying that first.
What temp do your fans come on at? Normally should be around 80 so if your guage is reading 90 or over when this happens then it could well be the temp sender.
The fan normally cuts in at 90. Where abouts under the bonnet does the other end of the temp sender connect?
parrot of doom said:
You know, this might sound daft but occasionally my temp gauge rises by 10 degrees on the motorway at 70+
Now I don't know whats happening, but I've found that by turning the heater up and the blowers on, it very quickly drops back to 90. Strange, anyone know whats going on there? It only does it at high speed, and rarely.
I've got a Griff so not sure if this applies in the same way to a chimp but at 70+mph I've read that there is a fair amount of turbulance so the air is buffeting around the radiator rather through it. However this is more apparent on a Griff becuase the rad is mounted at 45 degress. I've noticed that your plates mounted lower already so can't recommend that. It could be something as simple as your grill being block with cr*p, have you given that a good clean through? The reason for the drop in temp when you put on the blowers is probably just the fact that you are drawing the warm air off the engine.
I was having heating problems myself so reduced the number plate size which helped but have also just changed the Otter switch, which often plays up. Now the fans come on earlier and more regularly but the temp. is much more consistent in traffic and on the motorway. It's pretty inexpensive and easy to do yourself.
P.S. Don't suppose you need an assistant anytime, I'm looking for a move into the Film/Tv industry. I could do with some on the job experience;-)
Persistence and hard work mate, those are the two key words.
Try www.mandy.com and get some experience lending a hand on films. Stay away from DV crap, get on the 16/35mm or Digi/HD stuff.
Qualifications are pretty meaningless in television, certainly at the thick end of things (ie crew). Experience is everything.
Try www.mandy.com and get some experience lending a hand on films. Stay away from DV crap, get on the 16/35mm or Digi/HD stuff.
Qualifications are pretty meaningless in television, certainly at the thick end of things (ie crew). Experience is everything.
dight-s
Welcome to the club. A couple of things spring to mind (my V8S has the same engine). Cheapest option first. Check there are no air locks in the system. Replace the two rad caps (make sure you get the correct pressure, 15lb I think for one, blanking cap for the other), they deteriorate after a while, then leak causing raised engine temps. There is countless discussions on these forums as to which cap sits on the swirl pot and which sits on the overflow/expansion tank. Both ways work on my car although I need to top up less with the blank cap on the overflow/expansion tank.
Have a look at the temp sender and check that it is the right one. There are a number of different ones that fit, all of different ratings. You could have a higher one calibration fitted that activates at 95-100 rather than the proper 87ish-90ish required.
Check the rad for wear. My old 350i radiator had suffered countless abrasions from small stones stripping away all but the basic core of the radiator making it a lot less efficient. I had mine recored by Serck Marston, costs about £150. They were also able to fit a bigger core with greater cooling efficiency. I've fitted a manual fan over-ride switch which I just turn on when temps get up towards 90.
Steve
Welcome to the club. A couple of things spring to mind (my V8S has the same engine). Cheapest option first. Check there are no air locks in the system. Replace the two rad caps (make sure you get the correct pressure, 15lb I think for one, blanking cap for the other), they deteriorate after a while, then leak causing raised engine temps. There is countless discussions on these forums as to which cap sits on the swirl pot and which sits on the overflow/expansion tank. Both ways work on my car although I need to top up less with the blank cap on the overflow/expansion tank.
Have a look at the temp sender and check that it is the right one. There are a number of different ones that fit, all of different ratings. You could have a higher one calibration fitted that activates at 95-100 rather than the proper 87ish-90ish required.
Check the rad for wear. My old 350i radiator had suffered countless abrasions from small stones stripping away all but the basic core of the radiator making it a lot less efficient. I had mine recored by Serck Marston, costs about £150. They were also able to fit a bigger core with greater cooling efficiency. I've fitted a manual fan over-ride switch which I just turn on when temps get up towards 90.
Steve
parrot of doom said:
Persistence and hard work mate, those are the two key words.
Try www.mandy.com and get some experience lending a hand on films. Stay away from DV crap, get on the 16/35mm or Digi/HD stuff.
Qualifications are pretty meaningless in television, certainly at the thick end of things (ie crew). Experience is everything.
Thanks for that, have been looking on the site before and going to start trying to get on the band wagon. My dilemma is do I quit my job and go for it with a passion, problem is my money is obviously going to take a hit! Then I might have to ditch the Griff, something I think I would find very hard to do. So if possible going to try and get some experience behind me first. Anyway enough of that, good luck getting your car sorted.
seb400 said:
Replace the two rad caps (make sure you get the correct pressure, 15lb I think for one, blanking cap for the other), they deteriorate after a while, then leak causing raised engine temps. There is countless discussions on these forums as to which cap sits on the swirl pot and which sits on the overflow/expansion tank. Both ways work on my car although I need to top up less with the blank cap on the overflow/expansion tank.
Please don't confuse the guy. The V8S cooling system is different from that fitted to the Chimaeras/Griffs. There is only one cap - blue VW plastic and not a metal one. Later cars have seperate expansion and swirl tanks with a nasty brass plug as well as the blue cap. None of which is interchangeable.
shpub said:
Please don't confuse the guy. The V8S cooling system is different from that fitted to the Chimaeras/Griffs. There is only one cap - blue VW plastic and not a metal one. Later cars have seperate expansion and swirl tanks with a nasty brass plug as well as the blue cap. None of which is interchangeable.
What do you know about such things Steve? You make it sound like you wrote the book FFS!
Hold on..DOH!...you did
Hope it is ok to butt in here..but as new Griff owner I dont know much yet. On the topic of temps and water, is it normal to have to top up the header tank every few days? Mine is '95 500 HC with blue silicone ACT hoses and SS pipes, Tuscan ally race rad, twin Kenlowes with temp adjuster set at 90 degrees. If I top up to 2-3 inches below neck of header, and open when warmish, it overflows, but when stone cold header is vitually empty.
shpub said:
Replace the two rad caps (make sure you get the correct pressure, 15lb I think for one, blanking cap for the other), they deteriorate after a while, then leak causing raised engine temps. There is countless discussions on these forums as to which cap sits on the swirl pot and which sits on the overflow/expansion tank. Both ways work on my car although I need to top up less with the blank cap on the overflow/expansion tank.
Please don't confuse the guy. The V8S cooling system is different from that fitted to the Chimaeras/Griffs. There is only one cap - blue VW plastic and not a metal one. Later cars have seperate expansion and swirl tanks with a nasty brass plug as well as the blue cap. None of which is interchangeable.
Thanks for the clarification on that Steve. I was a little
. I have the blue / brass caps that you describe. I took the grill off to check out the condition of the rad. It looks a bit shot, with a lot of the fins starting to disintegrate. Any recommendations from anyone regarding replacement would be welcome.
Steve - seeing as you are clearly one of the TVR gods, can you advise how I should measure the temp of the engine (to check that the gauge readout is correct). Or should I just buy your book?
>> Edited by dight-s on Friday 2nd September 13:35
>> Edited by dight-s on Friday 2nd September 13:56
wadesnj said:
Hope it is ok to butt in here..but as new Griff owner I dont know much yet. On the topic of temps and water, is it normal to have to top up the header tank every few days? Mine is '95 500 HC with blue silicone ACT hoses and SS pipes, Tuscan ally race rad, twin Kenlowes with temp adjuster set at 90 degrees. If I top up to 2-3 inches below neck of header, and open when warmish, it overflows, but when stone cold header is vitually empty.
They all seem to have their own level.. .. ..i used to suffer the same until i left it alone, and mine now runs perfectly with about 2" of water in the expansion tank when cold.
kim
slikk said:
They all seem to have their own level.. .. ..i used to suffer the same until i left it alone, and mine now runs perfectly with about 2" of water in the expansion tank when cold.
kim
Hi Kim, thanks for the reassurance, I'll just keep an eye on it for a while! No leaks anyway.
Fleshlightfreddy said:
You know, this might sound daft but occasionally my temp gauge rises by 10 degrees on the motorway at 70+
I've got a Griff so not sure if this applies in the same way to a chimp but at 70+mph I've read that there is a fair amount of turbulance so the air is buffeting around the radiator rather through it. )
My Chim seems to like to run its fans even when driving around at motorway speeds. Turns out I'd lost my chin spoiler - which does help with cooling - without noticing. It's getting a replacement RSN so hopefully cooling will be back to normal.
I use one of those IR remote thermometers and take readings on the radiator, engine, pipework and so on. Some multimeters have temp reading as well and are a good alternative. It's just to confirm that you have a problem before spending a lot of money trying to cure something that doesn't need curing. They are also great for barbies and calculating the height of clouds!
As for the rad... get it recored with a 3 core centre.
As for the rad... get it recored with a 3 core centre.
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