Discussion
Read up on the "to waxoyk or not" on the various forums but most seem years ago.
Anyone recommend someone in Kent who can do this messy job.
Only one seems to be www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk
Has anyone used them or any other recommendations in the Kent area.
Cheers.
Anyone recommend someone in Kent who can do this messy job.
Only one seems to be www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk
Has anyone used them or any other recommendations in the Kent area.
Cheers.
dont use waxoyl....there are by modern standards, far better products on the market, surplus: these products dont "convert" the complete underside into a black sticky and messy surface.
for me: a waxoyl covered TVR- chassis is definately a "dont buy" criteria when it cames to car-sales.
for me: a waxoyl covered TVR- chassis is definately a "dont buy" criteria when it cames to car-sales.
It’s always been possible to buy clear Waxoyl.
I’ve recently come across, but not used, a more modern appearing product called Lanoguard. They have places that can do the dirty work around the country if diy doesn’t according to the website.
In the Op’s case, if the metalwork looks good under the existing Waxoyl, I’d just top up with more waxoyl.
I’ve recently come across, but not used, a more modern appearing product called Lanoguard. They have places that can do the dirty work around the country if diy doesn’t according to the website.
In the Op’s case, if the metalwork looks good under the existing Waxoyl, I’d just top up with more waxoyl.
Edited by swisstoni on Sunday 20th August 11:55
Waxoyl is messy, and if you want a pretty chassis then it isn't the way to go, but it is very good. I have used it on many vehicles for years and had no issues at all. And there is something very satisfying about brushing on a good waxy layer of protection. It really feels like you are doing something worthwhile. I looked into Languard and it looks promising, but it is relatively expensive, and I have no idea how good it really is in the real world.
Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (black) or UC (clear) is what I recommend to my clients & what I've used on previous personal cars.
I'd suggest doing some research on Lanoguard - lanolin based products have nowhere near the durability of other products and lets face it it isn't something you want to do regularly.
Cheers,
Chris
I'd suggest doing some research on Lanoguard - lanolin based products have nowhere near the durability of other products and lets face it it isn't something you want to do regularly.
Cheers,
Chris
I recently applied Lanoguard to my car - well to be more accurate, my local garage put it up on their ramp and they did it. they charged the grand total of £32 to do it. They said they thought the product looked good and was very easy to apply. their MOT tester thought it was good too. There was a downside - they said it made their workshop stink of sheep ! I bought the Lanoguard stuff myself - it was about £90 for the whole kit. Less than half was used by the garage so there is plenty left to re-apply next year. It does apparently need to be done every 12 to 18 months according to lanoguard. Car did also smell a bit sheepy for a week or two but is fine now.
Granturadriver said:
I don‘t like a waxoiled chassis. It looks filthy and you can't even make out exactly if there aren't any damaged areas. In my opinion, this is just an excuse not to check the chassis regularly.
With a sheet metal body with cavities it is of course something else.
+1 With a sheet metal body with cavities it is of course something else.
As above, you can clean off Waxoyl in seconds with white spirits (or even WD40) if you want to inspect a section. And then it's quick to re-coat when you are done. I personally prefer the sticky mess than rust. But then again, I am more of an oily rag man than a clinical clean showroom guy.
Hi. Mostly said already.
I don’t use a TVR as a normal car, as they really aren’t normal! That’s why we like them!
The last TVR I used as a normal car was a 1976 3000M, this was in 1981, it is now dead, 1999 was as long as it lasted.
Given that, I don’t like Waxoil from a looks perspective. Plus too much can affect its function. For ultimate protection and oiliness I used to use 2/3 Waxoil and 1/3 sae90 oil. Very lubricious…
My current 3000S was painted and Waxoiled lightly in 1991. I am just cleaning the chassis and it is still clean and black. It has never been wet mind…
So, Waxoil can work, it looks a mess and don’t over apply. If you want a clean chassis don’t use anything, just wipe with WD40 regularly.
TVRs take work to keep looking good.
Best
Nic
I don’t use a TVR as a normal car, as they really aren’t normal! That’s why we like them!
The last TVR I used as a normal car was a 1976 3000M, this was in 1981, it is now dead, 1999 was as long as it lasted.
Given that, I don’t like Waxoil from a looks perspective. Plus too much can affect its function. For ultimate protection and oiliness I used to use 2/3 Waxoil and 1/3 sae90 oil. Very lubricious…
My current 3000S was painted and Waxoiled lightly in 1991. I am just cleaning the chassis and it is still clean and black. It has never been wet mind…
So, Waxoil can work, it looks a mess and don’t over apply. If you want a clean chassis don’t use anything, just wipe with WD40 regularly.
TVRs take work to keep looking good.
Best
Nic
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